Financial Daily from THE HINDU group of publications Wednesday, Jan 21, 2004 |
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Variety
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Lifestyle Columns - Reflections Of enthralling ashtavinayaks P. Devarajan
FOR three days we drove through traditional Maratha country, in and around Pune district, spread out like a bakhri roti under a January sun, visiting temples of Lord Ganesh to redeem an old promise. Some in the area call it Sharad Pawar country. In villages around Narayangaon, deep violet grapes hang readily for the picking season to start. Loads and loads of cut sugarcane, packed tight in bullock carts with entire families of farm labourers atop the loads, make their way to sugar co-operatives. Humans and animal are under equal stress with a hearty laugh making the difference. Over some stretches nurseries embroider the edges of the highways, with the flower business, like roses, attracting funds. Sturdy men, browned by the sun, unique in white Gandhi caps affixed firmly on their heads like their first names, women in navvari sarees and children in ragged clothes fill up the outdoor frames. One can see them in the fields and at brick homes living in a second world in which gods and goddesses promise walk-in interviews. At some places big dish antennae, a part of the ground telescope system, stick out to catch exclusive beeps from planets and stars in yonder skies for scientific use. A few Flame of the Forest trees are in bloom and spring could be starting any time. Yet for the public and me, it is Ganapati Bappa, ever and always. For them a visit to the ashtavinayaks (eight Vinayaks) spread around Pune district and overflowing into nearby Raigad district is a marked item in the calendar. Going by tradition and myth, the ashtavinayaks are "swayambhu (independent or sui generis)" and are a deep red in colour. Some have their trunks turned to the right and the belief is the Lord obliges every demanding prayer of his bhakta; others have it to the left and one is not sure if they can deliver, in modern management jargon. Most have a pond attached to them though today they are a dirty green with no cleaning being taken up by the temple trusts. The elephant gods are housed in one-room stone tenements as the gods came first and the temple later. Atop the room or garbha griha is a conical roof in brilliant green, yellow and red, like the cap of a circus clown. We drove about 900 km over three days starting with Ojhar in Junnar Taluka, Pune district, where the Lord goes by the name of Girijatmaj. Next came the rather steep climb of some 300 stone steps to Lenyadri in Golegaon, where Ganesha has taken refuge in a cave. That is surprising as Lord Ganesha rarely keeps away from humans. A long drive of a few hours took us to the Mahaganapathi at Ranjangaon and by the time we touched the smoke and grime left in the air of Pune by fuming vehicles, it was 11.30 in the night. The second day was probably the best with the nice and bulky Chintamani at Thevoor village assuring bliss: A contented god and contented pilgrims. For the first few minutes one laughed as Chintamani makes you laugh and not pray. Mayureshwar at Morgaon and Siddhi Vinayak at Siddhatek followed with a boat ride across the river Bhima taking the city pilgrims to Siddhatek. The hodi, a paddle boat, takes about five minutes to do the journey over waters some 15-ft deep and this may go in the coming years as a road bridge is being built. The famed Dagdoo Ganapti and the god at Sarasbagh in Pune city are not in the company of the ashtavinayaks but in Pune one cannot skip them. Some years ago, one recalls Dagdoo Ganapthi at a street crossing, more a streetwalker but now he has been encased in a cement temple and looks quite uncomfortable with the facility. But everyone is sure of his blessings and one is amazed how the lord manages it all. After marking our presence on the third day at the two temples we drove along the Pune-Mumbai Expressway to Sri Ballaleswhwar at Pali and Sri Varada Vinayaka at Mahad in Raigad district. The Expressway runs smooth, all cement with cars and Volvos, buzzing away at 100 km per hour, earning the wah-wah of drivers. On both sides run the barren Western Ghats in the last stages of disrepair after which it may become just a mark in some outdated atlas. In Ashoka's times, they built similar pathways with trees for pilgrims and wells to cool the passing crowds. Till some time ago, Lord Ganesha lived in a wooden temple at Mahad and today has to do with a cement structure. Given a chance one would like to make the trip again and say a hello to Chintamani.
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