The Hindu Business Line : Heritage tourism waiting to be tapped

KARAIKUDI, a developing urban centre in the backward Sivaganga district in Tamil Nadu, is emerging as a tourist hub in the efforts towards promotion of heritage tourism in the State. It is located between Tiruchirapalli and Rameswaram. Situated in the midst of the old Chettinad region dominated by `Nagarathars', also known as Chettiars, the town has around it a number of places of heritage interest nurtured by the community in their days of glory.

History has it that as a community blessed with a rare financial acumen and an inborn talent for trade, it migrated to this region of the erstwhile Pandya Kingdom in the 13th century from the adjacent Chola Empire. They engaged in business and trade and flourished. They became a vital element of local finance and trade in several South Asian and Southeast Asian countries from the middle of the 19th century to early 20th century. This helped them accumulate wealth and create fortress-like mansions and fill them with a richness of architectural beauties. According to the then standards, the settlements were considered urban and the settlers were called `Nagarathars', it is said. Building temples with tanks (called Oorani), religious and educational institutions and charitable hospitals became part of the their lineage. The independence in South Asia following World War II resulted in their undoing as their trade got badly affected. They have the credit of establishing the Indian Bank and Indian Overseas Bank, which have spread wings across the country and abroad.

The glory

Of all the clan temples they built around, nine of them, in Illayangudi, Mathur, Vairavanpatti, Iraniyur, Pillaiyarpatti, Nemam, Illupakudi, Soorakudi and Velangudi, devoted to Lord Siva, evoke a splendid ancient tradition to adore and preserve. By custom, a marriage in the community is recognised only if the bride and bridegroom received their wedding garlands from their respective clan temples. The palatial mansions, arts and crafts embellishing their homes reflect a conglomeration of architecture and building styles.

The `Chettinad Mansion' in Kanadukathan, 15 km from Karaikudi, in particular, is very unique for its sheer size and features, typical of a bygone era of a gracious living. The Chettinad Palace is just located behind this mansion. The Burma teak motif, marble, handmade tiles, stained glass windows, elaborate chandeliers and intricate carpentry are ingredients of these mansions. The high ceilings, the inner courtyards built with classically and beautifully carved granite or teakwood pillars where the family ceremonies were performed are sure sights for enjoyment. The architecture of a typical home is a statement of living in harmony with nature. It keeps the interior of the house cool in the hot summer and lasts for a lifetime, it is said.

Present condition

Pallathur, Prithali, Kothamangalam, Devakottai and even Karaikudi stand testimony to more such lavish houses. Almost all of them remain deserted at present, as the generations that followed have left these homes to seek their fortunes in more prospering cities and towns elsewhere as the region lacked in material resources, both in agriculture and industry, by modern standards. Lot of articles are still locked up in various rooms in these mansions, worthy of an exhibition, we are told.

Chettinad cuisine and art

The Chettinad style food is also equally famous for its varied spicy varieties, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian. The snack items are delicious and colourful. Items like Ukkarai, Kandarappam, Karupatti Paniyaram, Kavanarisi, Pal Paniayaram, Thenkuzhal and Seepu Seedakai are but a few that leave lasting taste for food lovers. The arts and crafts and the artifacts that embellish their homes and temples would interest more. The `Chettinad Baskets' especially carry intricate patterns as fine as embroidery made with the help of date-palm leaves. Other items of interest include the handloom sarees, silver wares, brass vessels, woodcarvings and the tiles from Athangudi.

Over the passage of time, Karaikudi has emerged as a haven for antique stuff of the region and an antique enthusiast would find them very interesting and appealing. The Chettinad Mansion at Kanadukathan has been turned into a heritage resort, with seven air-conditioned double rooms, each provided with all facilities befitting the cherished lifestyle and furnished with original handpicked Chettinad pieces.

The initiatives

Despite all this, the region still suffers from an economic backwardness. The cinema industry tried to shoot films in these mansions but could not sustain for long as the owners preferred to preserve them. The famous AVM Studios was started here. To promote the region, the State Government has taken the initiative to harness the rich potential for tourism, combining the heritage and pilgrimage and developing Karaikudi at the centre as it is located equidistant from Tiruchi, Madurai and Thanjavur.

The District Administration has taken a positive interest in promotional activities. More houses are getting converted as `bed and breakfast' boarding facilities to attract more foreign tourists. The `Chettinad Bungalow' at Karaikudi town is noteworthy, among them. Last March, the administration organised a ` Chettinad Festival' including local cultural dance forms such as karagattam, mayilattam and more for two days to create awareness. This was followed with a cycle rally in September. In the private sector, many hotels and restaurants have started emerging. The Tamilnadu Tourism Development Corporation has taken the initiative to market the Chettinad heritage abroad through participation in international conferences on tourism held in London, Berlin etc., in the last couple of years.

Enquiries have started pouring in from abroad, according to Mr. A. Chandramouli, Chief Executive, Chettinad Mansion. A plan to open a tourist information office at Kanadukathan is under consideration, said TTDC sources in Madurai. The Union Finance Minister, Mr. P. Chidambaram, who incidentally hails from Kandanur near Karaikudi and represents the Sivaganga Parliamentary Constituency, has laid the foundation recently for the conversion of rail link between Karaikudi and Tiruchirappalli into a broad gauge line

Suggestions

The Confederation of Indian Industry, in its report last year on the industrialisation of southern districts, has suggested international connectivity to the airport at Madurai and an improved road network to boost tourism activity in the region. There was an airport in the nearby Chettinad Farm in Karaikudi (now under the army control) and this could be revived, as more private airlines are taking to sky, the locals suggest.

A rail link between Karaikudi and Madurai would be a more appropriate step in giving a spurt both to tourism and economic development in the region, according to Mr H. Raja, local MLA. The town has been included as one among the 102 municipalities in the State for provision of underground drainage facilities. The level of ground water is good enough. The infrastructure for education is good and known widely. With improvements in the civic infrastructure facilities, Karaikudi has the scope and opportunity to emerge as a real hub, he adds.

If the government promoted the economy of the region by helping to set up textile units to generate employment and incomes, seizing the opportunity presented by the global textile scenario at present, more lustre will get added, feels Mr P.K. Paddikkasu, an emerging industrialist in the area.