The Hindu Business Line : Gap, other US cos may seek ‘child labour-free’ tag

New Delhi, Dec. 6 With big-ticket fashion labels in the US under fire for sourcing from vendors using sweatshop labour in Asia, clothing major Gap Inc and other US-based buyers of textiles and clothing products from across India and other Asian markets are planning counter-measures, including a proposed certification system that marks a product with a ‘child labour-free’ tag on the lines of a programme already being used by the Indian carpet industry.

Other measures being considered include a re-labelling of garments sourced from the Asian region to allow end-consumers to directly track online the exact location where the product was made, say industry players, who have been sounded out by the US-based buyers on the proposals.

The buyers are also said to be looking at ramping up independent monitoring of their suppliers in Asia, along with an increase in random inspections.

The measures come after a US Labour panel report indicted American fashion brand Victoria’s Secret of sourcing goods from a Jordanian supplier using child labour at the factory. Earlier, Gap Inc had come under fire when one of its Indian vendors subcontracted work to a Delhi-based firm that was using child labour in sweatshop conditions.

Gap, which sources from around 200 vendors in India, has already begun sounding out its Indian partners on the initiative to replicate the success of the ‘RugMark’ programme, which has largely eradicated child labour in India’s carpet industry. RugMark, issued by an organisation working independently of the industry, certifies carpets bearing its label are free of illegal child labour by monitoring looms and factories through surprise and random inspections.

Stepping up vigilance

Indian suppliers, on their part, are gearing up to step up vigilance against child labour.

To start of, garment and home textile exporters, already reeling under the fallout of a rising rupee, plan to cut down on subcontracting works, especially in case of hand embroidery and beadwork that is generally done outside the factories in informal settings.

“There could be some backlash in the form of increased vigilance through spot audits by buyers as the child labour issue picks up heat in the US.

“While in India, we are confident that there is no child labour use in the factories, we are trying to be vigilant about any isolated cases that could crop up at sub-contractor facilities,” a Delhi-based exporter, who supplies to Gap and JC Penney, said.

Gap, after the disclosure, pulled out 50 per cent of its orders placed with the Indian vendor, which it refused to identify.

The San Francisco-based firm also said it would make a $200,000-grant aimed at improving the working conditions in India and would try to recruit retailers from around the world to participate in a forum next year to address child labour issues.

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