The Hindu Business Line : Greek designs weave their magic

Recently in Santorini Greece "Diamonds are a woman's best friend", the handsome Greek owner of the glittering jewellery store cooed, as we labour up the steps of the shopping area in the central square of Thira, the principal town of the awfully beautiful and picturesque Santorini island in Greece.

It is the most unusual place for a plethora of shops, a town located almost on the edge of a volcano. Santorini itself is a circular archipelago of volcanic islands located in the southern Aegian sea, about 200 km south-east of mainland Greece. Around 1650 B.C., the eruption of a volcano resulted in the sinking of a greater part of Thira, leaving only a part of the perimeter. So when you either shop at the cluster of shops in Fira (the most happening place in Thira) or dine at one of its numerous restaurants, or just sip a coffee or a beer at one of its fancy cafes or bars, you are just a few steps away from a view of the deep blue waters.

And around 8 p.m. almost everybody visiting Fira - it is said that at any given time there are twice the number of tourists in Santorini compared to local inhabitants so the economy is heavily dependent on tourism - gravitates along the steps of the narrow pedestrian lanes to the topmost portion of the little town, to watch one of the most spectacular sunsets in the world. Last fortnight, the sunset was around 8.30 p.m. and the red, orange and finally pink glow lingered for almost 20 minutes after the sun went down into the water, giving the sky a unique and magical glow.

As the light faded, the tourists filed back into the shops, cafes and restaurants or made their way back to their hotels. But the shopping along the pedestrian lanes in Fira goes on until 11 p.m. or perhaps even beyond. The silver and gold jewellery, in typically Greek designs, can tempt even women disinterested in jewellery shopping, such as this correspondent. But the glittering windows, the latest European designs, and above all the delicate setting of the stones, soon lures you into what you foolishly believe would be confined to window shopping.

"Come in, come in, have a look. You don't have to necessarily buy anything," invites a voice from El Greco Jewelry. The delicate diamond loop is done in an intricate and unusual design, and one hesitantly points a finger at it. Out comes the whole velvet tray. Chris Goletsopoulos, who calls himself Manager, extols the beauty of the piece. Not helping at all is Diana, an Englishwoman married to a former Turkish diplomat, who is staying at my hotel. The husband, after watching the sunset, had politely excused himself and walked away as soon as he saw the two of us heading for the shops.

"How much is it,' she asks.

"Only 700 Euro," he smiles. As one mentally clutches at the credit card in the handbag, willing it not to emerge, and looks gingerly at Diana, she says: "I know there are women who'll give you lectures on not splurging. But I am not the type, my dear, who will not encourage you to spend on yourself. After all we women work so hard, so if you like it, buy it."

"I'll think about it", I murmur and dart out of the shop.

After one has picked up a few earrings and pendants done in that comparatively harmless - and more affordable - metal called silver, the eyes are transfixed on a stunningly beautiful pair of sapphire gold earrings. The tiny stones are packed so tight along the loop that all that is visible is a dazzling deep blue. The feet refuse to move and the gentleman manning the Lithos store pulls out the sapphire earrings and places them before us.

The price tag? A stiff 1,300 Euro. As his two female customers exchange glances, Nikolas says in his most coaxing, soft tone. "You don't have to decide on anything now. Take a walk, come back, let's have a glass of wine and then we can talk about the price. This is not my best price... I can help you more."

Thankfully, Diana is a diamond person and shakes her head, whispering, "I'd go for the diamonds any day."

As a cool breeze blows across the street, we walk down the steps and into a café for a glass of Frappe, to which one had been introduced by the American food writer David Rosengarten the previous morning. Frappe in Greece is a typical iced Greek coffee made with filtered or instant coffee, and is the preferred coffee in summer. He had, of course, recommended it without milk and sugar, but having resisted temptations that come with price tags as huge as 700 Euro and 1,300 Euro, one deserved both milk and sugar in plenty.

On second thoughts though, a glass of wine wouldn't have hurt... but might have proved fatal!

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