Turning over a new leaf

In France and Italy, it is said, it is almost impossible to find a bad cup of coffee. The same can, without doubt, be said of Sri Lanka and its ubiquitous Ceylon tea. On this emerald island, teatime and the rituals that surround it are sacrosanct. Locals are quick to frown on a poorly brewed cup of tea. After all, Sri Lanka has not been among the world’s finest — and largest — tea producers for nothing.

Think Ceylon tea and the word Dilmah comes to mind instantly. Founded by Merrill J Fernando and spearheaded by his sons Dilshan and Malik, Dilmah tea is now an empire of sorts, dispatching daintily packaged boxes of its signature single-origin tea to over 100 countries. The Dilmah journey began in 1988 and has since gone from strength to strength. Now, a new and rather improbable extension to this activity is making waves across Sri Lanka.

The family has extended its footprint by opening a new luxury hospitality arm, aptly named Resplendent Ceylon, which includes two of Sri Lanka’s most expensive and exclusive properties, with more in the offing. Cape Weligama is a 39-room property that dominates the summit of a headland jutting out into the Indian Ocean, and Tea Trails, a sprawl of 26 rooms housed in five colonial planter’s bungalows, situated in picturesque tea gardens of the central provinces.

I catch up with Malik Fernando who has been spearheading this promising luxury hospitality arm. The obvious first question is on the motivation to diversify into hospitality. “It is about common sense and marketing,” he says. “I have a wonderful vision for Sri Lankan tourism. Dilmah tea has always enjoyed a premium positioning in the market and our luxury properties are nothing but a logical progression. People in the Sri Lankan travel industry are still hesitant because we have gone through a lot of bad times. Starting afresh and giving a fillip to the luxury industry here is easier said than done, but someone’s got to do it.”

The philosophy of Resplendent Ceylon does not follow the cookie-cutter model of larger chain hotels, which are beginning to enter Sri Lanka slowly but surely. Malik says, “There may be big five-star hotels coming in, and there’s a market for that too. We wanted to take over individual properties, like Tea Trails and Cape Weligama, as well as a few upcoming projects. The properties are never connected from a design perspective, but the common factor is the service and the luxury element. We plan to have six hotels, which will have a total of 200 rooms. It is really a very niche experience.”

No surprise, then, that both the properties have been welcomed into the prestigious Relais & Chateaux fold, a global hotel consortium specialising in niche, experiential luxury hotels. In fact, when Relais & Chateaux introduced its very novel concept ‘Routes du Bonheur’, suggested country-wise travel itineraries designed for the discerning traveller, the Fernandos’ Cape Weligama and Tea Trails made the cut. They allow the well-heeled but culture-conscious traveller to experience the tea plantations of central Sri Lanka, the bucolic vistas of the south coast and its temples and monasteries.

Tea Trails has an interesting story behind it. While the Fernandos were looking at tea plantations to invest in, they chanced upon a few neglected estate managers’ bungalows in the central region of Sri Lanka. Nationalisation and land reforms resulted in a surplus of these, which the Fernandos thought could be put to use. Malik explains: “In 2004, we started restoration work on four bungalows. We have just added a fifth bungalow this year. Each bungalow is between four and 15 km apart and there are marked trails everywhere. Guests are encouraged to walk, trek and even use the mountain bikes through the plantations. There are treks and guides too.” As a result, Tea Trails emerged as a novel luxury experience in Sri Lanka, opening up a market for an uber-affluent traveller seeking a highly personalised and discreet luxury experience. “The best part,” says Malik, “is that the bungalows are located on a working tea estate, the experience is as authentic as it gets.”

Fast forward to 2015, when the Fernandos’ uber-luxe 40-room village, Cape Weligama, located a short drive away from Galle, majestically straddling a lofty headland. As you walk through the lush green alleys of the property, signboards with names of great explorers and writers point towards the eight private gardens — Marco Polo, Ibn Batuta, Samuel Baker, and so on.

Cape Weligama is located on the pendulum route between China and Europe, and from the villas, you can literally watch the passing ships on the horizon. The most visually overwhelming aspect of the property is the 60-metre Smiling Moon infinity pool in the shape of a crescent moon, from the edge of which there is a steep drop down to the ocean. The Smiling Moon pool has been consistently named among the most beautiful swimming pools in the world by the major travel portals.

How, then, does a hotel run by one of the world’s major tea labels integrate tea into the guest experience? Malik explains: “At Tea Trails, the tea element is almost everywhere. At Cape Weligama, we are developing the idea of having your own tea bar, as a unique, exclusive experience for guests. Another thing we want to think about is the pairing of food and tea, which I am constantly perfecting. Oh, and even cocktails!”

At Resplendent Ceylon, the efforts include engaging local communities, employing local staff, adopting sustainable practices and even using home-grown brands, incorporating indigenous art and music. From the look of it, Resplendent Ceylon is fast emerging as the jewel in Sri Lanka’s spanking new luxury crown. Word on the block is that the Fernandos’ new property, Wild Coast Lodge, a secluded, ‘glamping’ spot with 28 tents in the leopard-infested Yala National Park, is going to be the next big thing! Or even the upcoming property in Sigiriya and another camp in the formerly war-ravaged town of Trincomalee. All eyes are on Sri Lanka!

Cape Weligama - Villa splurge

If you’re at Cape Weligama, your best bet would be to splurge on a villa. Each villa is set in a private garden and has a 15-metre private swimming pool. The colonial-style villas are surrounded by large galleries furnished to perfection with Sri Lankan furniture. Within the villas, ranging from 130 sq m to 200 sq m, you are immersed in a completely boutique experience, replete with a private butler. Designed to resemble an old Sri Lankan stately home, the decor is representative of Sri Lankan aesthetic — old Ceylon books and historical volumes placed in the rooms, antique furniture and rustic artwork everywhere you look. The private steam room is an added perk.

Best high tea in Sri Lanka

As you would expect, any hotel run by a tea company promises an exquisite high tea. The Dilmah High Tea at Weligama’s Taylor Pavilion is possibly the property’s most unforgettable offering. A balustraded wooden pavilion, offering 200-degree ocean views, hosts a decadent high tea, offered as part of the experience to every guest. It pulls out all the stops to immerse you in a colonial experience. Seated at an elegant tea table or a chaise lounge you can choose from a selection of gourmet teas, freshly steeped at your table, accompanied by a traditional tiered stand of sweets and savouries.

Tea Trails

Sri Lanka boasts the world’s first resort comprising authentic tea bungalows, at an altitude of 1,250m. Tea Trails is an exercise in period drama, with each of the five villas being decorated to perfection to recreate a lifestyle “on the plantations”. The bungalows house between four and six rooms and suites, a total of 26 rooms. Each bungalow has its own eating area and a team of butlers. You can walk or cycle between bungalows. “Cream tea” (or high tea) is a daily ritual and the rooms are named after the former British estate managers who once lived there. Tientsin Bungalow is the oldest, dating back to 1888, and houses a 91 sq m Irvine Stewart Master Suite.

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