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Monday, March 13, 2000

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The Venice of America

Upcountry New York, I mean the State of New York, is one of the most scenic places in the US. And one of the lesser-known of its splendid sights is the Thousand Islands -- a spectacular combination of thousands of beautiful islands, cute villas, quaint c hurches and other similar attractions -- all forming a picture-perfect setting.

From Buffalo, the nearest town, we took an enjoyable ride through a tree-lined highway to reach Alexandria Bay, the getaway to the Islands. As we moved toward the ferry wharf, big billboards about the excitement of a boat tour of the Thousand Islands bec koned.

No vacation here is complete without a sightseeing tour through the many channels separating the islands. The US and Canada have jointly constructed the billion dollar-St. Lawrence Seaway which passes through the Thousand Islands. Large ocean-going vesse ls from every nation navigate the Gulf of St. Lawrence to Lake Superior.

American marketing expertise in inventing options to target all consumer segments is in wide evidence here. As far as tours go, there is a Circular Main Tour, Island Mansion Tour, Luncheon, Dinner, Sunset and party cruises. It took us some time to choose one from the myriad options.

Ultimately, we chose a 4-hour long cruise covering the entire island. The tour also offered an unlimited stop at the Boldt Castle which allows you to get off there and later board any other boat of the same company to return to Alexandria Bay.

The tour covering two nations -- the US and Canada -- did not need any paperwork but it seemed mandatory for each group to pose for a photograph. On our return, we found that a print of our photo was available on sale. Later on, a local friend told me th at the negatives ultimately go to the police as this helps in detecting anyone wanting to jump the border between the two countries.

Spread out on the waters of the mighty St. Lawrence River between Cape Vincent and Ogdensburg are the Thousand Islands. The islands which actually number over 1,800, range in size from tiny islands such as Tom Thumb to some covering several sq. miles.

Sometimes called the `Venice of America', the unsurpassed beauty of this region has been extolled by all who have visited this scenic wonderland.

As the three-deck steamer began its journey, we moved to the open-air top deck. Scenic groups of islands with beautiful cottages and chalets, churches and gardens come and go in slow motion. Other steamers and hundreds of motor boats also can be seen on the water. The whole scene provides a true impression of the place -- a splendid playground for the rich and famous.

However, it was not always so. The Red Indians looked upon Thousand Islands as comparable to the happy hunting grounds of their dream and named them Manitonna, meaning `Garden of the Great Spirit'. The Indians finally surrendered this section to New York State in 1778. Subsequently, this area was claimed in succession by squatters, smugglers, lumberers and shipbuilders.

During the late part of the 19th century and the early 20th century, many fabulous summer homes were built on Thousand Islands by the leaders of the society.

One group of islands is known as the `Millionaires' Colony'. The most magnificent of these estates was Boldt Castle on Heart Island opposite Alexandria Bay. George C. Boldt, born of poor parents in Prussia, determined that someday he would build a castle as beautiful as the castles on the Rhine that he had seen as a boy. In America, he found success and wealth as a hotelier and he chose Heart Island as the perfect setting for his dream castle. The island itself was moulded into the shape of a heart and construction started at the beginning of the last century. To make it the finest summer home of the region, no expense was spared. Just before completion, the sudden death of Mrs. Boldt brought all work on the castle to a stop and it was never completed. Today, Boldt Castle still stands as a monument to a great architectural dream.

There are many smaller but equally interesting spots. For example, Tom Thumb Island, the smallest inhabited island, with just enough room for a small cottage and a napkin-sized courtyard. Then there is Devil's Oven -- a rocky little island used as a hidi ng place for American patriots.

The boat passed below the huge International Bridge -- spanning Canada and the US. Then, it moved past Zavicon Island -- where between two islands is the world's shortest international bridge -- about 7 feet in length.

Our tour guide pointed out that these islands are currently inhabited by billionaire businessmen, film and music stars as well as people of relatively modest means who want to have a little world of their own.

Today, the Thousand Islands welcome millions of visitors who come each summer to this vacation paradise. Here, one can find excellent fishing, boating, swimming and picnicking in many of the lovely island parks.

But our exciting journey came to an end when the boat returned to Alexandria Bay. Later on, we took in a spectacular bird's eye view of this magnificent gift of nature from the tall Skydeck Tower on the Canadian side and bade our final adieu.

Fact file

How to reach: Air India has the most convenient flight to New York. From there, you can take a Greyhound Bus to Buffalo and can hire a car.

Island cruise: Starts from $12-60, inclusive of dinner.

Where to stay: Hotels and motels are available at Buffalo and The Thousand Islands. Starts from $50 for a single room.

Season:Upcountry New York is best to visit during June to October. In October, you can also enjoy the famous fall colours.

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