The Hindu Business Line : Silken and seductive

Youthful, trendy and minimalistic — that's the famed pure silk saree for you, this season. The designs couldn't get more hip with cool checks, fine stripes, zardosi and kundan work to boot.

It's that period, from the onset of Dussera to Diwali, when the country sees an overall rise in splurging — be it for clothes, jewellery or consumer appliances. The market area in any town or city wears a festive look — electrical decorations, festoons and the swelling crowds at various shops. The festive season also ushers in discounted sales in most of the retail outlets wooing the average Indian consumer. In Chennai, the mood is no different. With Navarathri just over and Diwali a week away, the festive spirit is at its peak. There are visitors from all over the country, and foreigners too, who are coming to this southern metropolis for buying what it's most famous for... .the pattu pudavai (silk saree).

"After 9/11, the general mood was gloomy and the economy not really good. Naturally, this had an adverse effect on the market. Now, however, the Indian economy is looking up, and the season is good too. This is evident from the bright and vibrant colours that are the rage this festive season," says K. Rajaram of Chennai-based Sundari Silks.

True to the mood, myriad hues and varied patterns that have been specially designed for the season adorn the shelves of these stores. The traditional and gorgeous maroons, reds and greens vie for attention together with the trendy ensemble of fluorescent greens, hot pinks and bright oranges. These colours, as Rajaram points out, reflect the changing preferences of the buyer.

"The trend is youth-oriented, and hence it is important to cater to the tastes and preferences of the youth," he says. Temple borders and the heavy-zari brocades have made way for simple stripe and check patterns. The Diwali collections have been named after accessories and flowers, such as Vanki, Jimiki, Rakkodi and Alli, Mullai and Sampanki.

"This year, for Navarathri, we had the traditional Pattu Pavadai Chattai collection and, now, for Diwali, we have introduced zardosi and beadwork patterns in the traditional Kancheepuram sarees, and people have liked it," he says. The sarees range from Rs 2,500 to Rs 8,000, depending on the extent of work. Apart from this, you also have simple Kancheepuram sarees with no zari, on which you can have embroidery, he adds.

A similar fare greets the eye at Tulsi Silks. "Hand-embroidery patterns from regions like Kutch and Kashmir, and also zardosi and kundan work on Kancheepuram sarees are in, this year," says Santosh Parekh of Tulsi Silks. It is a parade of new collections for this season, here, what with a mind-boggling 87 collections that range between Rs 4,000 and Rs 8,000. Aarthi, Kusum, Mansi, Swati, Swarna, Vidhya and Yamini are some of the names of the collection.

At Nalli Silk Sarees, the Diwali collection has been named after Carnatic ragas such as Sahana, Vandana and Athana, says Krishna Das, Manager. The sarees range between Rs 4,000 and Rs 6,000. And add to these, there are the trendy ones in crepe and chiffon with zardosi and threadwork, priced between Rs 3,000 and Rs 7,000.

Rasi Silk Emporium (Rasi) has released the Shree collection — Varashree, Adishree, Manjushree, Madhushree, Chitrashree and Kalashree — for Diwali. "The designs have been taken from very old patterns. We are trying to revive more-than-200-year-old patterns," says Jayaram, Managing Partner, Rasi. The collection ranges from Rs 6,000 to Rs 10,000.

So, what does the discerning buyer have to say? "A Kancheepuram silk saree is always value for money, as it lasts for a long time. And I also like to go in for a trendier saree, like Tussar or silk cotton, with embroidery or thread work, which I can wear for parties too," says Sabita Srinivasan, a Chennai resident.

Gayathri Raman agrees. "A lot of middle-class women buy Kancheepuram sarees more as a form of investment. So, they prefer traditional colours, good zari and trusted names," she says. And when it comes to design and style, her vote is for the traditional look.

Nonetheless, designers and boutique managers foresee a growing trend of simpler designs and discreet patterns, the prize pick of the younger generation. "Light accessories are the rage today, and look good only when worn with simple sarees, or highlight sarees with zardosi or sequence sarees," says Masood Hashim of Satya Paul, another Chennai outlet. According to him, chiffons, georgettes and crepes are a great hit with young women.

But there will always be a niche market for Kancheepuram sarees, especially among the older generation, who will settle for nothing less than the "original". "In the olden days, the zari on silk sarees was of very superior quality — made of silver, sometimes with a tinge of gold too — and they wore a festive shine. The sarees used to be quite heavy. But nowadays, they have become lighter, and the zari is not all that vibrant. But, I feel, that there is more variety than what we used to get earlier, to suit the tastes and preferences of today's generation," says Jaya Ramamoorthy, an octogenarian Chennai resident, for whom "pattu" (silk) is synonymous with Kancheepuram.

While there are many who would agree with her, there are many more who throng the "Fancy Saree" sections of the city stores in pursuit of that tasteful, yet minimalist, look.

Picture by K. K. Mustafah

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