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Sumitra Senapaty

Bold and simple, yet full of valour and romance, such is the lure of Rajasthan. And what makes the visit special is that you can barely move without tripping over a handsome prince or two.

Not everyone wants to go on a whistle-stop tour getting up at dawn, packing and unpacking everyday. More in tune with the way we live now is choosing a small corner of the country and getting to know that place more intimately. Rajasthan is one destination that continues to be rediscovered by people, not only from India but also from all parts of the world. Often travellers neglect many pockets of the country and better-known neighbours eclipse very interesting places. Ranthambore, Shekhawati and Jodhpur, for example, are quite different from the tourist-rich honey pot, Jaipur.

With Independence, the Rajput princes were persuaded to give up their royal prerogative for the sake of a modern, homogenous nation and a decent annual purse. In the early 1970s, amid accusations of betrayal, Indira Gandhi withdrew the purse and the Rajput aristocracy had to face the commonplace business of earning a living.

For visitors to Rajasthan, this was the silver lining. Stripped of their lands and their privileges, legions of monarchs suddenly found themselves in possession of only a single asset — their remarkable palaces. Before you could say `insolvency', these palaces were converted into heritage hotels, where visitors could indulge themselves in royal style and in most cases the families still live on the premises. And in almost all cases, the former maharajas have proved themselves to be excellent in hospitality.

Today, Rajasthan is a place to make your itinerary fit the hotels, not the other way around. So if your accommodation is not one of the highlights of your trip, then you are staying in the wrong place. Moreover what makes it special is that you can barely move without tripping over a `raja' or two. Even today, the region is heaving with minor royalty. Visits to Rajasthan usually begin in Jaipur, the State's largest city and a corner of the Golden Triangle (with New Delhi and Agra). Nicknamed the Pink City, Jaipur is a rose-tinted wonder, from the walls of its enormous palace to the houses that climb pell-mell up the hills. As befits a capital, Jaipur claims a surfeit of palaces, including perhaps the single most spectacular Rambagh, a sprawling estate that is managed by the Taj Group.

If you want to know what are the interesting places to see in Rajasthan, an answer is difficult, as there are scores of interesting places in the state. Check out Ajmer, Bharatpur, Mount Abu or Pushkar. The medieval city of Jaisalmer rises like a jewel from the sands of the great Thar Desert, where one can explore the city's exquisitely carved havelis and palaces, and venture into the desert on a camel safari for a special dinner.

Dominating the city of Jodhpur is the massive Mehrangarh Fort that reportedly contains priceless jewels and armour collections. The world-famous Pushkar Camel Fair draws thousands of people, who bring around 50,000 camels and cattle for several days of animal trading. Activities include camel racing, devotional singing and music, magic performances, and bazaars.

When it comes to tiger spotting venues, one can choose between Sariska and Ranthambore, with Bharatpur being the Mecca for bird watchers. Also, tourists never miss out on the opportunity to do some shopping in Jaipur, which is famous for its brightly embroidered fabrics, interesting pottery, Rajput-style silver jewellery and semi-precious stones, mainly garnet, ruby and turquoise.

Part of the fun of visiting Rajasthan is seeking out its remote havelis and forts. The havelis once owned by wealthy Shekhawati traders boast some marvellous murals in their enormous suites with big poster beds. For those with a penchant for the past, but no stomach for rustic fare, there are the palatial Villa retreats of the Oberoi group.

After Vanya Villas, luxury tented camps are the new rage for those who can afford them. Most famous on long African safaris, they are now flourishing in the State of Rajasthan, where the Aman group recently opened its six-tent property Aman-I-Khas, supposed to be the last word in luxury. Heritage and hip are the buzzwords in these boutique retreats.

Rajasthan is increasingly witnessing the metamorphosis of old forts, havelis and palaces into heritage hotels. The beauty of hotels like Mandawa and Dundlod lies in the fact that while they retain their old-world charm, they also have the best of modern facilities and amenities. And to make it more authentic, the erstwhile families are present in full force to greet their guests and regale them with stories of the Durbar days and heady nights. Dancers and fire-eating performers during gala dinners lend a regal touch to the State's ambience.

Built in the 1700s, these ancient towns are riding into another age, and will remain the stuff dreams are made of. Through the years, Kings and Queens have flocked to experience Rajasthan, along with Hollywood royalty like Vivian Leigh and Sean Connery. It was Roger Moore, who used the heavenly Lake Palace hotel and its Udaipur setting for the fantasy island retreat in 007's Octopussy.

Yet the grandeur of Rajasthan can make such things seem trivial. The one-of-a-kind Lake Palace sets a lofty standard. The forts and palaces are only part of the allure of this historic land, named after the Rajputs, a warrior clan. The desert backdrop only makes the local people more mesmerising.

Women sport dupattas and choli-ghagaras in every colour under the sun. Men don plain white kurta-pajamas and top them off with safas (turbans) in eye-catching shades of yellow, red, orange and maroon. And every Rajasthan male prides himself upon possessing the State's signature feature — a magnificent, thick moustache.

Such is Rajasthan, bold and simple, yet difficult, full of valour and romance. Palace by palace, hotel by hotel, the tourist has learned to live like a prince.

Enthused by a 50 per cent growth in domestic tourist arrivals and a 49 per cent increase in foreign tourist arrivals in 2003, it is not surprising that the tourism department of Rajasthan has chalked out a master plan to capitalise on the State's heritage advantage.

Today, Rajasthan — past, present and perfect — continues to charm.

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