The Hindu Business Line : More than snob appeal

It's the body-hugging tight fits that are a real rage as men are getting more and more fitness conscious and have no qualms about flaunting their well toned bodies.

As the Indian male gets more and more conscious of what he wears, how he looks and what impression he is making on those he deals with - at the workplace and outside - designers in India are hastily getting their act together. The new millennium male, it would seem, has finally broken the shackles of the past, and while jet-setting and scaling professional highs, he has stepped onto the high-fashion lane too. Today, dressing for the workplace is as important as dressing for a night out. Most designers say that when it comes to a choice of clothes the Indian executive can be as choosy as a woman and make as much, if not more, effort to be smartly turned out.

The formality of earlier years is now being replaced by a degree of casualness. There's an element of weekend spilling into the weekday. Designers are creating clothes that are striking but not loud. They are merging casuals and formals, the retro with the contemporary look.

No longer are men ashamed of donning their designer sherwanis and kurtas, wrapping themselves in Jamavar shawls or draping crushed brocade dupattas. No longer are they restricted to colours or shapes quintessentially male.

While the earlier generations considered spending too much time and money on clothes an effeminate obsession, the modern Indian male is avidly following the fashion scene and taking pains to be smartly turned out.

This trend is clearly reinforced by the rising number of designers and a booming readymade industry. Innumerable labels have mushroomed in the past few years offering a vast array of garments targeted to pamper the male ego.

To an extent, this explains the proliferation of men's fashion designers who have made the male more fashion conscious than ever before. Which is why designer wear is now becoming a part of the wardrobe of an increasing number of upwardly mobile young men.

Stylish and chic

Says the Czar of Indian fashions Rohit Bal, "The man who buys my creations is someone who appreciates craft, yearns for good quality and cares for the Indianness of designs. Just like my client, my work is stylish... chic with a strong element of tradition in it."

He says that this year there is no single trend because the outlook of men is changing and they are ready to experiment. "There aren't any dress codes. But I would stress that it's the body-hugging tight fits that are a real rage as men are getting more and more fitness conscious and have no qualms about flaunting their well toned bodies."

However, another biggie in the field, Raghavendra Rathore says that the look of the year is ethnic. "In men's fashion the kurta is back in a big way and so is the bandhgala." Like Bal, Rathore too goes back to the past for his designs. "My creations are retro-inspired and mainly from my hometown Jodhpur — traditional Rajasthani designs that have the trendiness of New York, where I learnt the craft."

Up-and-coming Delhi-based designer Vidur Parashar, who calls himself a generation-next designer, swears by the funky look. "Take the shirt. There's a sea change in its design. Three button collars are now a rage; the inner linings are becoming more visible and colourful. That apart, men are ready to experiment with different combinations. My designs revolve around the 1970s' look — casual yet striking."

However, unlike Parashar, some designers feel that there is little you can do with men's clothes as the Indian man's mindset is quite conservative.

But Aashish Soni, another top-of-the-line designer, says, "Agreed there isn't a big scope to work around men's wear as compared to women's wear but a whole new world can be created by playing with cuts and fits. Basically, reinventing is the name of the game. If a designer is imaginative he can work wonders. This is the reason why we keep going back in time to revive the look of the 1950s or 1960s, with contemporary designs."

Rathore agrees. He says it is for designers to think of newer ways to please the Indian male. With international brands moving in, it is best to go back to traditional Indian clothes and re-invent them to suit modern tastes.

Snob appeal

But have global brands like Benetton, Van Heusen, Weekender and others negatively impacted designer wear?

No, says Rohit Bal. "The big difference is easy availability. These are for the masses at prices that suit their budgets. Whereas designer wear caters to more stylish people who are ready to spend more money to look different. There is a strong snob appeal attached to wearing a designer label and flaunting it."

In such a scenario one doesn't need a fortune-teller to predict that the change that was heralded in the 1990s is here to stay in 2004 and the urban Indian man is willing to set aside a good portion of his time, money and effort to cultivate the smart and dashing look. But what has set the pace for this upsurge?

Fashion pundits say that though men have traditionally considered shopping for themselves a tedious activity, many now feel that in the new millennium, it is indeed apparel that makes or mars a man.

Interestingly, the brand game has now become a part of an executive's lifestyle — the label on his clothes is often an index of his social standing. The result of this snobbery is that Indian and foreign retail chains that market high quality mass-produced garments are laughing all the way to the bank.

But Rathore is somewhat cynical about the popular brands. Along with Bal he too feels that such brands are "created for mass buyers. Whereas designer labels cater to the needs of a particular individual. If you want to look different then nothing fits the bill better then a designer attire." So what is going to be different for the Indian male in the coming months?

As far as Rohit Bal goes, the current trends in men's wear would be colourful and varied. "For the daily regular wear, flat fronts are in. Kurtis too are making a comeback and so is the lounge look. Comfort is the biggest fashion statement of the year as far as I am concerned."

Says Ashish Soni, "Last year the short shirts were in and the kurtis were rocking, but these have now given way to the longer version."

But then not every Indian male who wants to look hep, can afford to be dismissive of the price tag. As another fashion designer, Rahul Kanjwala, points out, "This year men's fashion will have to take into account three vital factors — creativity, wearability and affordability. I am going to revive needlework and embroidery and my colours are going to be muddy blues, oxidised gold florals and blood reds. Designers have to innovate. They have to be daring and bold to attract attention."

With such a tantalising array of designer labels and brands available in the market, another area that is gaining importance is that of accessories. Funky ties, chunky chronographs, big-buckled belts, eye-coolers.

"Accessories are as important as clothes. Today accessories decide what you are going to wear. Many men have different watches for different clothes. Belts and shoes too are getting a great deal of attention. This year the maroon and dark tan have made a dramatic comeback," says Rathore.

Bal agrees. Accessories, he says, have started playing on the minds of designers in a big way. "In my scale I would say that the watch comes first, followed by the pen peeping out of your pocket to be matched by real cool sunglasses and finally the belt with broad buckles and leather shoes. Apart from these, men's jewellery, like chains, rings and studs are really happening."

Fashion accessories

Adds Vidur Parashar, "The ultimate male accessory would be a branded watch with a big dial. Then come the belts and shoes — these too are fast changing. Black shoes are a thing of the past and the tie too has disappeared. Chains, chokers, rings, bracelets are in. For me, this year's fashion inspirations are easy riders, biker dudes and the college frat."

Designer shirts, kurtas, sunglasses, watches and belts. Is designer fashion affordable?

Surprisingly, the answer is yes. Most designers have prêt lines that are usually at par with leading brands. For example, Rohit Bal shirts start from Rs 1,000. Says Ashish Soni, "In the next few years I see prêt lines making it really big and giving the big branded labels a run for their money."

Clothes, say most designers, are the best form of nonverbal communication and that goes for accessories too. The right watch, the right cuff-links and tie-pins would be as important as the choice of suspenders, belts, shoes, shirts, jackets and trousers. And there would be plenty to choose from. The 2004 man could shop till he drops.

Flashy hues and prints

This autumn/winter season, Be: -- the pret-a-porter (ready-to-wear) store from the house of Raymond is introducing a whole new colour palette in its men's wear collection, ranging from subtle lilacs to soft pinks, bright yellows, rusts and ochre.

For the corporate executive, who likes to stay a step ahead on the fashion scene, Be: will be offering poly-wool trousers and linens for both trousers and shirts.

To go with the poly-wool formal trousers will be shirts with appliqu‚ work or interesting visual elements printed on them ... like bird-print shirts from Rohit Bal.

"Men now have the same kind of multiple choices as women do. The focus for male dressing is now `lifestyle dressing' with emphasis on comfort and colour.

Therefore, for the first time, Be: has got into formal wear and we are also increasing the share of men's wear in our basket of pret offerings," says a Raymond spokesman.

So, expect corporate cabins to be flooded with an explosion of colours -- sunshine yellows, passionate plums, and even classy corals. This time it will be men who'll flash these hues!

Newsmen Features

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