The Hindu Business Line : What's in fashion...

They used to sit in sun-drenched shacks on the beaches of Goa. Between swigs of potent feni and puffs of strange-smelling cigarettes, they would wait for customers — glinting needles in hand and bewilderingly creative patterns in their minds. If you had told them then that their trade would eventually become a hip and happening profession, you would have probably been giggled out of town. Or, even been accused of being on drugs. Because tattooing was anti-establishment then... the refuge of rebels... a hobby for quick, easy money.

Five years later, it's another lucrative profession in the ever-expanding fashion career market.

Fashion in India has certainly come a long way. And swish tattoo parlours, such as `Funky Monkey', which has been reportedly doing roaring business in Delhi and Mumbai, aren't the only indication of the fact.

Hair stylists and colourists, nail bars and make-up artists, body piercing and body art, are just some of the new categories of creative careers in fashion.

Modelling, meanwhile, has taken off, with Indian faces being appreciated on international ramps thanks to the current wave of interest in India and all things Indian, fuelled by an opening economy, gushing beauty queens, addictive Indi-pop and ancient beauty secrets from sciences like ayurveda now being slickly packaged and sold to the awed, developed world.

Fashion is big business

"It all began in 1994 when Sushmita Sen and Aishwarya Rai won Miss Universe and Miss World simultaneously," says Maya, an enthusiastic young student of fashion. "Then came Madonna in the Frozen video, wearing henna tattoos... After that, there was no looking back." Fashion in India has also got a boost from big international companies such as Gap, Banana Republic and Ann Taylor Loft, which get their garments made in India, taking advantage of the country's highly skilled and relatively inexpensive workforce. All this has taken fashion beyond the realm of glamour to that of respectability and profit.

"The number of applicants have been steadily growing every year," says D.L. Sunder, Director of the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), India's premier institute of design, management and technology. He adds that last year the seven NIFTs across the country received more than 20,000 applications for the 1,000-plus seats. Indians are now more open to careers in fashion and some students have even given up medical and engineering seats to enter NIFT. "While not all engineering students get jobs when they pass out, here, everyone gets placed."

Although fashion designers like Rohit Bal and Ritu Kumar grab a lot of media attention, Sunder says there is a lot more to fashion today besides designing for the ramp, which generally requires a lot of money. "Most of our students become designers for the industry, working on garments for clothing companies." And now, the market is opening up further because even international brands are beginning to use Indian designers.

However, for independent designers, the going is good — once they establish themselves. Rehane, one of the few South-based designers to create a splash at the Lakme Fashion Week, says selling designer wear involves a lot more than just creating beautiful clothes. "Down south, we all have this naive attitude that if our clothes are good, people are going to love them, and buy them," she says. "But when you take your bags and go up north to sell your label, you have to be aggressive."

She says that in a place like Delhi, for example, people only buy names they recognise. "It's all about hype, profile and where your flagship store is. In Mumbai, on the other hand, people are confident enough to pick up what they like." Meanwhile the competition keeps getting tougher. "There are lots of designers now, and they're all very good... They're with it, know the latest trends and every passing Fashion Week, you can see changes." Brand management is not the only avenue. You can also get into garment manufacturing, become engineers in a garment factory, design apparel, knitwear and accessories, merchandise, become a sales representative, store manager or buyer... the options are not just endless, they seem to constantly multiply as fashion and technology advance.

Designing that shining metal

Jewellery design, for example, seems all set to explode. K. Shivram, Vice-President of the World Gold Council, says a number of established jewellery houses are now looking for designers since there is a niche, but growing market for contemporary designs. "Heavy, traditional jewellery can't be used every day," he says. "Right now people are looking for daily wear... something very slick and trendy." So, not only are branded jewellery houses such as Tanishq and Damas employing young designers, but also houses like Prince Jewellery, for traditional pieces with a twist.

Beyond ramps...

"India's become a global trader," says Prasad Bidappa. A `fashion guru' and choreographer, Bidappa trains models, organises fashion shows and has made some memorable `finds,' including models Dino Morea, Vidhisha Pavate, Nafisa Joseph and Lara Dutta. Stating that India is one of the world's biggest manufacturers, and is hence attracting an increasing amount of attention, Bidappa says, "If you have some creative talent, you can make a very good career in the fashion industry. Students from NIFT start out with Rs 15,000-20,000... "

Modelling pays even better. "Modelling today is the best platform for young people. To be a good model, mere physical beauty is not enough," says Bidappa, "Dedication, hard work and talent are necessary too. There are many good looking people but not all of them can make good models."

Former model Poongkothai Chandrahasan, who started modelling at 16, agrees. "At the end of the day, it's a very me-centric profession," she says, adding that as a model, you need to make an effort to maintain your face and figure. "Your product is yourself," she says. That's one of the reasons she gave it up. But she agrees that, as a profession, it has a number of up-sides. "You're on your own feet, doing your own thing. It gives you independence and freedom, and you get to travel ... "

Hair styling is in

Another up and coming profession in the burgeoning fashion industry is hair styling. Indians, who once did little besides cut and henna their hair, are now going wild with colouring, rebonding, streaking and cutting-edge hair styling. Vikram Mohan, Director of Bounce, a tremendously hip Chennai-based salon, says he became a stylist because of the "huge potential in the market." As Indians socialise and travel, their world is opening up, and today, they want the same kind of hairstyle and fashion seen on Parisian ramps, or New York's streets. With this change, hair styling and beauty have become stylish professions, as evidenced by the number of celebrity stylists jet-setting around the country.

To keep pace with this trend, Bounce recently opened the Bounce Hair Academy. "Lots of people approach us for training. Today, this is an exciting field to work in... especially if you're creative," says Vikram, adding that a vast variety of jobs is available. His sister and partner Prarthana, for instance, just completed a course on hair, make-up and clothing for photo shoots.

There's a whole new world of fashion out there — and it gets bigger, and more delightfully complex, every day.

Picture by S. Subramanium

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