The Hindu Business Line : Sultan for the day

Indulge in good food, wine, music and the arts... much like the Deccan sultans did, at Hyderabad's historical Taramati Baradari. A well-equipped conference centre promises to pamper the business Moghul in you.

The Qutb Shahis sure knew how to live life king-size. Excesses were a necessity back in those fairytale days before Aurangzeb stormed the Golconda and hounded out the fun-loving Deccan Sultans from their cosy castle. However, the legacy of the Sultans as connoisseurs endures in the form of quaint ruins that have withstood the ravages of time and, of course, Aurangzeb.

Tucked away at Ibrahimbagh in Hyderabad is one such structure that has a fascinating romance hidden in its lime-and-mortar ramparts. As the story goes, Abdullah Qutb Shah, the seventh Sultan of Golconda, was much fond of music, poetry, wine and Taramati — the last of the passions being a beautiful courtesan who could sing with rare finesse. Enamoured by her beauty and singing, he built a beautiful Baradari (12-door pavilion) where Taramati sang in the evenings, a performance watched by the Sultan himself from atop the Golconda a mile away.

The makeover

Circa 2003, the Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (APTDC) decides to take over the Baradari for renovation, a move that has morphed the dilapidated edifice into a charming monument surrounded by lush lawns and lit up imaginatively in the nights.

With the Baradari as a backdrop, APTDC set up a multi-purpose culture complex, advertised by the catch line `A realm of dance and music'. But that's just the fine print. The place now is a melting pot of the modern and ancient — catering to corporate yuppies, gourmets, art lovers, tourists and just about anyone out to savour the flavours of a 400-year-old city.

Housing two fully equipped theatres, one of which is an open-air auditorium, the Baradari is a perfect setting for music concerts and the performing arts. The art fests feature the best of classical jugalbandis, ghazals, semi-classical concerts and rare dance forms from all over the country. Among those who have performed here are maestros like Hariprasad Chaurasia and Shiv Kumar Sharma. Tickets are priced Rs 150-200 for adults and Rs 100 for children.

The food

They say a Hyderabadi can smell biryani a mile away. If it's made the proper Hyderabadi way, that is. And proper Hyderabadi food, with a capital H, is what you get at Punnami, the plush multi-cuisine restaurant at the complex.

The eat-out's spacious interiors can hold 85 customers at one go. Mughal paintings and arches on the walls add an ethnic touch to the décor that is pleasant with its mild colours, carpeted floors and comfortable seating. The time-tested recipes are guaranteed to give gourmets a finger-licking time. There are the famous mutton and chicken dum biryanis to begin with.

The menu features rare recipes like dum ka chicken and patthar ka ghosht, the latter featuring minced meat cooked on a stone slab and expertly smothered with spices to give a delectable tang.

The pick of kebabs includes the shammi kebab made of minced mutton and its chicken variant, reshmi kebab. If a Mughlai spread isn't what the stomach agrees with, the cooks can also be trusted to toss up excellent alternatives like paneer butter masala, navratan kurma, aloo palak and a host of other eats that settle down into the system more easily.

Taste-bud sizzlers like the famous Nellore Chepal Pulusu and Gongura chicken are served only at parties on prior orders. Though the management does make a faint mention of continental food, this too is available but only on prior order. By word of mouth, chicken in brown sauce and baked vegetables is supposed to be fantastic in this section.

The Chinese section has eternal favourites like sweet `n' sour chicken, the Manchurian range featuring fried rice and juicy non-veg nuggets and tasty soups. Items from the tandoor include the must-have naans and rotis along with crispy meat roasts marinated in strong masala for that rugged flavour.

Those with a sweet tooth can pick out the always-on-demand double ka meetha and khubani ka meetha or the delicate Gil-e-Firdaus — thick kheer made of milk and seviyan. The prices are reasonable (meal for two: Rs 250-300).

Foodies also have the option of downing a few drinks at Saqi, a comfortable bar beside the restaurant, that serves Scotch and premium liquor brands. APTDC also organises chowki dinners for groups on request. Add to that ghazal evenings on Saturdays in the restaurants, and this becomes a culinary experience that will linger on well after you're done with the burping.

Talk shop

Besides good food and the arts, the complex also boasts of state-of-the-art boardrooms (an impromptu demo of Hollywood blockbuster Independence Day revealed a superb sound system), a swimming pool with a modestly equipped fitness centre attached and a billiards room.

Backing this is good accommodation with air-conditioned bedrooms and six suites. A souvenir shop opposite the restaurant has on sale trinkets, stone statuettes and fine leather goods for the trip back home.

As you stand within its premises, taking in all the creations inside it, the Baradari comes across as more than a realm of `dance and music'. There's definitely something more to it. For, it's the essence of Hyderabad and all things truly Hyderabadi — romance, good food and a love for the good life.

Where: Ibrahimbagh, Hyderabad

Distance: 15 km from Begumpet airport

Contact: APTDC reservation office, Tel: 040-23298456, 23298457

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