The Hindu Business Line : Wazwan or appam?

India is the land of several distinctive palates, innumerable gastronomic wonders and myriad tastes. Ancient cuisines in every part of the country — some mild, others piquant — tantalise the taste buds. At once aromatic, overpowering, invigorating and, ultimately, unforgettable.

But how far would you travel to get a taste of India?

With the opening of several restaurants that serve authentic food from all corners of the country, adventurous food-lovers of Delhi need travel barely a few kilometres from home. For those looking for a realistically rustic regional experience, new restaurants serving a host of ethnic cuisines are sprouting all over the city.

Delhi's `coastal' getaway

Take, for example, Swagath, which is a sister concern of Sagar, a well-known South Indian vegetarian restaurant chain. This Delhi restaurant occupies four floors, which are normally filled to capacity, thanks to its great coastal and Chettinad fare.

Fresh fish is flown from Mumbai every day and the fish tikkas, kolivadas and fried ladyfish are wickedly delicious, as are the surmai and the pomfret.

"For those who like to experiment, there are live crabs that can be cooked in pepper-garlic sauce in a mere 25 minutes. The prawns are a must-try, as is the squid and the Bombay duck," says owner Jayaram Banan.

He recommends an appam (steamed dosa) or a crisp Malabari parantha as an accompaniment. This can be washed down with a glass of luscious buttermilk or Sole Kadi, a drink made from cocum — a fruit with a special tamarind tadka. A meal for two costs Rs 400-600.

Wah! Wazwan

Chor Bizzare in Old Delhi's Hotel Broadway serves Kashmiri Wazwan. "Waz means food and wan is the place where it is sold. This style of cooking came to India with the traders from Iran, Afghanistan and Turkmeinistan, and the Kashmiris added their touch to give it a distinct identity," says Ved Lal Pandita, the Waza (Head Chef).

The restaurant organises a Wazwan for not less than ten people and that too with a 24-hour advance notice. A private dining room is reserved for the party, and everybody is seated on the floor during the dinner. The Waza, dressed in a traditional Kashmiri firan, serves the food in handis.

The piece de resistance is the Ghoshtaba or beaten meat of lamb. The meat, which takes 10-12 hours to cook, is hand beaten early in the morning to soften it in fresh air.

The upmarket menu also boasts of unusual delicacies such as Rista — mutton in saffron-based curry, mirchi korma and the mutton yakhni. There are no accompanying drinks though.

After the splendid meal, one can choose from a variety of traditional Kashmiri desserts including phirni, kheer and shufta — an assortment of dry fruits shallow fried in sugar syrup. The meal costs Rs 500 per head.

"It's a rice-based cuisine best enjoyed when eaten using the hand. However, the food is oily and spicy, so we encourage customers to come for dinner," says Manager Prateek Sinha, adding with a laugh, "They never listen to us and come whenever they please."

All-gujju, all-veg

For those who want a break from non-vegetarian food, there's Farsaan — a Gujarati restaurant with a pure vegetarian menu. "We have one basic fare — an exclusive thali that sums up the essence of Gujarat. Farsaan means snack and that's what the thali is mostly made up of. The taste is authentic Gujarati — not sweet, as some people would think, but salty and tangy," says owner Gautam Singh.

The thali (Rs 190 plus taxes) has 17 items including khatte- meethi dal, Gujarati kadhi, three seasonal vegetables, khandavi, dhokla, methi roti and thepla. And for the sweet tooth, there's the traditional succulent Srikhand.

Singh, who is overwhelmed by the response to his restaurant, plans to introduce a Gold Thali — cooked exclusively in desi ghee and priced between Rs 450 and Rs 750 — and several combo snacks.

"The food is heavy but a glass of Gujarati chaas or buttermilk helps digest the meal better. Some snacks can be had any time of the day, along with a glass of aam ras," says Singh.

The restaurant, which sells over 60 thalis a day, has both floor-seating as well as tables, depending on the customer's preference. There are special discounts for large groups and the place is open till the wee hours.

Frontier fare

"The Raan Kandhari is the most wanted dish here. It's cooked on a slow fire and is best combined with black dal and zafrani naan, topped with jal jeera or lassi," says Chef Gautam Chodhury of The Kandahar, at The Oberoi, which specialises in food from the rugged North West Frontier provinces.

His personal favourites are the Lahsuni Palak and the Kumbh Hara Pyaaz. A meal for two costs Rs 1,200-2,000.

For those who don't want to spend that much, Lazeez Affaire is a great option. Situated in Chanakyapuri and Greater Kailash Part II, the eatery's success lies in its juicy Kakori kebabs, the tender Awadh Ke Soole and sensational handi meat.

With wines and fancy cocktails/mocktails to go with the food, this standalone fine-dine restaurant tops it all with its serene ambience, lilting music and complementary décor.

For the more enterprising foodies, there are places like Andhra Bhawan, Baboo Moshai and Keraleeyam that serve cuisine from Andhra, Bengal and Kerala respectively. These rarely have seats to spare or even enough waiting room, thanks to the lip-smacking, tongue-tingling fare that is easy on the pocket.

Speciality regional restaurants are popular not only in Delhi but in surrounding regions as well. Gurgaon's Sahara Mall has Khanesama offering great Awadhi fare at affordable rates, while Noida has Kovalam.

Yes, the Capital has a big appetite for regional food. And the more exotic, the better.

Ramesh Sharma/Location courtesy: Farsaan

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