The Hindu Business Line : Face value

Even as Indian models strive to etch a place for themselves in the global fashion map, the clamour for foreign models continues in the Indian advertising space. All for that sharp, `international' look. With Indian fashion brands wanting to climb up the `aspirational' value ladder and create a global appeal among consumers, foreign models are in good demand.

According to an industry estimate, in the last six months there was a requirement for 300-450 foreign models in Delhi and Mumbai from Indian companies spanning sectors such as clothing, malls and airlines. And the demand only promises to get bigger.

Currently, foreign models are sourced through model co-ordination agencies which meet the client's requirements with their database of models from across the world. Taking this concept a step ahead and providing a `human resource' angle to the whole issue is Ma Foi Management Consultants, a human resource consulting and recruitment firm. It recently entered into a memorandum of understanding with a leading UK-based model co-ordination agency, MOT (Models Out of Town) Models, to bring in professional placement services in the modelling industry and increase the depth of its offering in the media and entertainment segment.

According to E. Balaji, COO, Ma Foi Management Consultants, the tie-up with MOT Models will give Indian companies easier access to European faces. "Today, there are intermediary arrangements between model coordination agencies and advertising agencies in India. The industry is unorganised; companies and ad agencies have to grapple with issues such as payment and visas for the models. Ma Foi hopes to sort out such issues and act as an interface between MOT Models and clients in India." Ma Foi will also market MOT Models' entire portfolio to Indian clients. Operations will start by early December.

According to a Ma Foi release, "Model coordination is limited by size, geography and diversified database. This will be the first organised service to bridge the gap of sourcing appropriate talent across borders. It is expected that this will open up professionally coordinated services and also protect the legal and contractual obligations of the model and the advertiser."

"We are also expecting reverse traffic as European companies too want Asian-looking models for specific assignments that involve selling to Asian families or the Asian community as a whole," says Balaji.

MOT Models works with reputed models who are regulars in the commercial advertising field. It does 1,500-1,700 assignments a month in places such as London, the Netherlands, France, Denmark and the Czech Republic. It has a portfolio of about 2,000 models from countries such as France, the UK and Greece.

A foreign model poses for Van Heusen Women.

But why use foreign models? And why is there a steady demand for foreign faces? Says Balaji: "The practice of using foreign faces is not new but it has gained importance in the last 4-5 years with businesses becoming international, with the need to portray a transnational global picture. Products such as fashion accessories and luxury cars prompt the use of foreign models to give an international spin to the story."

According to Darshan Mehta, CEO, VF Arvind Brands, which uses foreign models for its brands Arrow, Lee and Wrangler: "Our brands have a certain aspirational value, a certain oomph. Take Arrow, which is an international brand. When you think of Arrow, you would not think of its as an Indian brand. You would expect to see an international face. If you see an Indian face, it would be jarring."

Agrees Bishwanath Ganguly, Brand Marketing Manager, Van Heusen. He says the brand is present in 72 countries and is international in the true sense. Therefore, foreign models are a natural choice. "Also, we have never found any Indian model to fit the international look," says Ganguly. International models may add a touch of glamour and premium to the brand's appeal, feel those in the advertising industry, but mindless use of foreign faces is not advised. Says Ma Foi's Balaji, "Consumers must be able to relate the product to the model. There is no point using a fashionable Western-looking model for a saree. That's a mismatch. Here is where the role of `bookers' - those who take enquiry from the clients and match their requirements with the models to get the best fit - becomes crucial."

According to an advertising professional, certain Indian brands tend to project themselves as "international brands" even if they are not present internationally. They may be fully-grown Indian brands, but tend to use foreign models just to create an international appeal. And a lot of consumers fall for this trap, says the ad professional. Consumers still have the `foreign means better' hangover. Says Deepak Joshi, Creative Director, O&M: "Even today, we have an obsession for white-skinned people. If it is a brand with international styles and designs and has an international connection, it makes sense to use foreign models. Otherwise, it amounts to fooling the public. And that's dishonest advertising."

However, such mixed reactions apart, what makes foreign models click? According to another advertising professional, Western clothes fall well on foreign models as they have the right body structure and carry themselves well in Western wear. "It is natural for foreign models to look good in western garments." There is a lot more variety when it comes to foreign models. There is a larger pool to choose from. While in India, the talent pool is small and "there are only that many that are good." Also, for sensitive advertising, like that for lingerie, Indian models may charge more.

Advertisers prefer to use foreign models who are closer to the Indian look so as to not "alienate the Indian consumer." Capetown, Dubai and South- East Asia are the most sought after places for foreign models. Indian companies also prefer French and Greek models. Ad agencies tend to stay away from super models who tend to bring in a large-than-life image and take the focus away from the brand. According to Ma Foi's Balaji, agencies prefer working with lower- and middle-rung models.

One can also choose from the steady influx of foreign models into the country. "There are these foreigners from countries such as Israel, Russia and South Africa on student exchange programmes who realise that modelling is an easy way to make money and start contacting modelling agencies. They land themselves some modelling assignments and soon make a living here out of advertising," says Shriram V. Iyer, Creative Director, Lowe, Mumbai, who has worked on assignments involving foreign models for Axe deodorant.

But whether it is `foreign' talent sourced locally or foreign talent from abroad, the phirang link is no more alien to Indian advertising.

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