• Investment World
• eWorld
• Catalyst
• Mentor
• Life
• Canvas
• Praxis
• Urban Pulse
• Brand Quest

Inder Raj Ahluwalia

Bamberg is a town of many faces, all of them pleasant and romantic, says Inder Raj Ahluwalia.

A thousand years is a long nurturing period, and it shows. It wears its age with charm and dignity, and like richly matured wine it merits undivided attention. Many illustrious epithets have embellished Bamberg's name — the `Germans' Dream City', `Franconian Rome', `Town of Romanticism', and now UNESCO: `World Cultural Heritage'.

Time slows down as one explores the charming town on foot. The narrow alleys which wind through the old part of town, the wonderful views from the hills over the rooftops of patrician houses, churches, and palaces and architecturally brilliant buildings, all contribute towards the town's fame. Bamberg's fabled architecture is a picture-book of different styles, a fine mesh of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque. Towers, gables, alleyways, squares, courtyards, palaces and churches are clustered in harmony. The mighty and the lofty alongside the tiny, lovable details.

Set in harmonious surroundings, this is a showpiece town. Among the architectural and artistic offerings, one can admire the statues of Synagogue and Ecclesia, and Bamberg Rider, created by gifted artists and master builders like Balthasar Neumann and the Dientzenhofers. The New Residence of the medieval archbishops, the Rose Garden from where one can enjoy a stunning view of the Monastery of St. Michael, the Imperial Old Court, and the Old Town Hall — like a ship at anchor in the middle of the river Regnitz — are notable symbols of town. Further down-river lies Little Venice, a former fishermen's quarter with its picturesque timber-framed houses. The Old Town with its ensemble of monuments has been declared World Cultural Heritage site by UNESCO.

Towering over everything else on one of the seven neighbourhood hills is the cathedral, which shows history perpetuated in stone. An emperor and a pope lie buried inside, and the famous statue of the Bamberg Horseman stands within its walls. A symbol of piety, it nevertheless, evokes memories of splendid royal occasions, of the murder of a king, a crusade and witch burning. From the peak of power to decline, from a wide influence to inner limitations, the cathedral has seen it all,

When it comes to museums, one is spoilt for choice. At the top-end is the Diocesan Museum, which has amongst its exhibits the Blue Coat of Stars of Emperor Henry II.

The Historical Museum, Ludwig's Collection of Baroque Porcelain and Fayence, and the New Residence which features changing paintings collections, all merit a visit. Other symbols of the city's cultural heritage and history are the Franconian Brewing Museum located in the vaults of the former Benedictine Monastery of St. Michael, the Museum of Horticulture and Viticulture, and the Missionary Museum in Bug.

Bamberg is fertile ground for the fine arts. Its reputation as a city of art and culture stems largely from the famed Bamberg Symphony Orchestra. ETA-Hoffmann-Theatre is another local cultural gem. The Calderon Festival in the Old Court, and concerts in the cathedral and in cloisters, all add up to rich entertainment.

But it isn't just fine views and monuments that account for local fame. The town is the home of the famous `smoked beer', which Germans call Rauchbier, a great local specially tasting something like liquid ham. (The smoky flavour is obtained by exposing the malt to the harsh, aromatic smoke of burning beach-wood logs). Smoked beer is among some 50 different types of beer the town serves. Nine breweries still operate in town, and about 90 in the surroundings, giving this region the highest density of breweries and beer worldwide.

Whether it is `smoked beer' or Franconian wine served on a shiny, scrubbed table, festive dining out, or a snack in a beer-garden, or coffee and tea in the Rose Garden, things are totally relaxed. And almost everywhere, there is the aroma of fried sausages.

Though historically rich, the city is by no means a museum of stones. Its 70,000 inhabitants make it the biggest town in the district of Upper Franconia, and an important tourist centre. Tourists flock here by the thousands, to walk along narrow canals and lanes, admire landmark structures, and souvenir-shop at dozens of boutiques downtown.

Bamberg acknowledges its role with its message of 'living with history', but offers a good life, as visitors quickly appreciate.

Picture by the author

Fact file

How to get there: Bamberg is a couple of hours by train from Frankfurt, which provides the most convenient approach. Frankfurt is connected with several Indian metros with direct flights.

Where to stay: Hotels range from deluxe down to standard, with room tariffs ranging from $45-150. Prior booking is recommended.

What to eat: A variety of cuisine can be sampled at dozens of eateries, with a standard meal for two costing about $30.

How to get around: One doesn't need local transport, with walking being the done thing. However, taxis are available. A half-day walking tour costs from $10-15 per person. One can also join organised sightseeing tours of the region.

Tips: Indian nationals require a visa to enter Germany.

Send this article to Friends by E-Mail

Stories in this Section
Soups & snacks, just for you

Copyright © 2002, The Hindu Business Line. Republication or redissemination of the contents of this screen are expressly prohibited without the written consent of The Hindu Business Line