The Hindu Business Line : A bird's eye view

Now you see it, now you don't? In the wink of an eye, the creature flies from one tree to another and simply disappears. There is a flash of yellow in flight, from one tree trunk to another, like a butterfly in motion. Even with many years of experience in bird watching and wildlife watching, I was totally intrigued by this strange creature.

Then it dawned on me that I was actually seeing a tail! It was my first sighting of a flying lizard. It was indeed a wonderful moment, a dream come true to see a flying lizard in its natural environment. The flying lizards are only found in certain pockets of Kerala, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Assam. Even though they are not rare or endangered, they are certainly not sighted easily as they perfectly merge with dark browns of the tree branches and tree trunks. At first sight, they look like the common garden lizards, but differ only when they move from place to place. They, however, cannot undertake true flight like birds, but are capable of gliding from tree to tree with their unique, extended body ribs that are interconnected by a thin layer of translucent skin. This skin membrane, supported by six extended ribs, acts as `wings' for controlled gliding.

Three of us were bird watching in the lush green jungles of the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary in Thattekkad of Kerala sprouting with enthusiasm, despite the rainy season. We were exploring the area without any assistance, as the entire staff of the sanctuary and the boat-runners were `off duty' due to a domestic dispute. This, however, did not deter us. The first bird we saw, as we set foot into the sanctuary, was the racquet-tailed drongo, a black beauty with extremely extended tail feathers. We then sighted the attractive emerald dove, known for its rapid flight.

The overnight bout of rain had made the earth moist and also soggy at certain places with tiny streams crisscrossing our path. All rivulets raced to join the Periyar river that flows on either side of the verdant jungle. The sanctuary snugly lies between two branches of the Periyar and includes part of the catchment area of the Periyar Valley Irrigation Project (Bhoothathankettu Dam) to the east. As is common in the Western Ghats, the terrain is undulating and the elevation vastly ranges from between 30 metres and 500 metres. The tallest point in the sanctuary is the Njayapilli Peak, at about 523 metres.

The lush green sanctuary.

Thattekkad is situated 77 km northeast of Kochi, in Idukki district of Kerala, just across the perennial Periyar River, which forms the border between the Ernakulam and Idukki districts. Sprawling over an undulating area of 25 sq km, it contains mostly moist-deciduous forests with small pockets of evergreen forests. Thattekkad is Kerala's first officially recognised bird sanctuary. Established in 1983, the lush green sanctuary has more than 300 recorded species of forest and water birds. While many of them are resident birds, some are migratory. The tall teak trees with sparse leaves make bird watching in this sanctuary easier even for untrained eyes and with the aid of a binocular the chances of seeing many more species of birds becomes a reality. The birds commonly spotted here are crow pheasants, nightjars, drongos, woodpeckers, wagtails, jungle fowl, robins, babblers and darters. If you are lucky, you may spot the not-so-common birds such as crimson-throated barbet, fairy blue bird, grey-headed fishing eagle, brahminy kite, night heron, hornbills etc.

The sanctuary was identified and carved out by the late Dr Salim Ali, an ornithologist par excellence. This exemplary bird watcher's paradise was once a rubber plantation and due to its specialty wildlife, it was declared a sanctuary on August 27, 1983, to protect the plethora of resident and migratory birds.

The Bombay Natural History Society (BNHS) has identified over 250 bird species in these dense forests and the Madras Naturalists Society has documented over 50 species of butterflies here. We were lucky to identify 37 species of birds in just about three hours. The sanctuary has its share of animals too. The elephant is an occasional visitor, trudging the hills in search of green food. Other wild animals such as leopard, bear, porcupine, python and cobra are sighted, if one has the time and inclination to explore the area.

A place of interest in the sanctuary is a watchtower-like tower house, ingeniously built with winding staircase and as you ascend, you can see the different layers of the forest canopy and the vast water body. Right on top is a single spacious room with double bed and bath. The best part is that it has no windows, and is totally covered with a 360-degree view. It is fenced with electric wires that can electrocute wild elephants, as the pachyderms are known to cause unintentional destruction. We had to wind up our trip to the sanctuary, as it was threatening to rain heavily. On my next trip, however, I have promised to stay overnight in the watchtower and enjoy the unique nightlife here with the birds and animals for company.

Pictures by the author

Fact file

Getting there

By air: The nearest convenient town and nearest airport is Kochi, 70 km from the Thattekkad bird sanctuary.

By rail: The nearest railhead is Aluva, at a distance of 50 km, but Kochi is a better option. You can travel by road from Kochi to Kothamangalam, along the Pooyamkutty road. Ferries operate across the Periyar that would take you to the sanctuary.

Accommodation: While there is a wide range of options in Kochi, lodging facilities are available at the PWD guesthouse near the dam. There is a forest guesthouse and the watchtower in the sanctuary is an excellent place to stay. Early booking is advisable through the Kerala Forest Department.

Best season: The park is open to visitors throughout the year. But the best season to visit is from November to February.

Getting around: Walking is the best option and a better option is to select a silent spot by the riverbank to admire nature. The watchtower is also a good option but the views are limited due to thick foliage. Another option is the slow boat-ride that takes a circular trip. Seek the assistance of the forest guard, a local guide or a helpful researcher for better navigation in the sanctuary.

Tips: Jungle boots, binoculars and cameras would certainly make the trip worthwhile.

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