The Hindu Business Line : Spice up that rice

For someone who's fond of cuisine and wants to cook rice and associated dishes other than in a rice cooker, this book teaches a thing or two about pulaos and bhats.

The nicest thing about reviewing a cookbook is testing the recipes and Kohinoor of Rice and Spice is gastronomic research that's a pleasure to dig into. For someone who's fond of cuisine but hasn't had the courage or even the patience to cook rice and associated dishes other than in a pressure/rice cooker, this book teaches one a thing or two about rice and following a recipe.

All the pulaos and bhats demanded rice to be cooked in a pot, and some had to be finished in the oven. So no shortcuts here, but unlike what was feared, it didn't take all that much time.

Admittedly, testing a recipe for a review is slightly different from trying it out for yourself, because you'd be more careful about following `minor' details to the T, but it's worth it — the end result is a joy to behold — each grain separate, neither too soft nor too dry nor too moist, just the right `bite' and flavour.

The interesting thing about this book is that it specifies the amount of salt to be used, a rarity. So why is it that not all recipes follow this convention, but have only the bland `Salt to taste' written in some? It would have been helpful to mention what kind of salt was used, though the recipes worked out fine with iodised salt. In fact, a few recipes miss out on listing salt but that doesn't prove to be a big bother.

The recipes themselves are a mix of the routine and the unusual and the photos look good enough to, well, eat. Happily, the experiments bear a close resemblance to the prescriptions, and that, in my book is one sign of success!

The Til Aur Curry Patta Bhat (rice seasoned with sesame seeds) is somewhat like lemon rice without the turmeric, with the sesame imparting a mellow nuttiness. The Biryani Mutanjan (lamb layered with rice) and Murgh Pulao (Chicken pilaf) turned out fine, but for a truly exotic recipe, try the Narangi Ni Chawal (recipe given below). Just as it begins to hint of lime the bittersweet tang of orange peel and juice kicks in, only to play hide and seek with the saffron and the cloves.

Written by liquor baron Rocky Mohan (of Mohan Meakins), author of two other cookbooks and restaurateur, the book is divided into sections for rice as a complete meal, as an accompaniment, as bread and as dessert.

The bread section has just three recipes, including the not-too-well-known Coorgi Roti made with rice flour and rice (Basmati again, but then, it's been published in association with Satnam Overseas, which markets the Kohinoor brand of Basmati rice).

The Gujbhata, sweetened rice mixed with grated carrots, is an interesting variation of Gajar Halwa, calories be damned! Assuming that this book will attract a readership, which is not all that familiar with rice, it would have been useful to mention the accompaniments to the various pilafs and breads. Nevertheless, it is a book for the connoisseur, the amateur and the armchair foodie alike.

Narangi Ni Chawal

(Orange rice)

Serves: 2-4

Ingredients

Rice, washed, soaked in water for 20 minutes and drained — 1¼ cups or 250 gm

Oranges (cut in half) — 2

Saffron — pounded and mixed with ¼ cup hot milk — ¼ teaspoon or ¼ gm

Refined oil — 2 tablespoon or 30 ml

Onions (sliced) — 1 cup or 120 gm

Cloves (laung) — 6

Bay leaves (tej patta) — 2

Black cumin seeds (shah jeera) — 1 teaspoon or 2 gm

Grated rind and juice of lemon (nimbu) — 1

Method

Squeeze and collect the juice of the oranges. Remove the pulp and discard. Boil the skins in water for five minutes. Remove and cool. When cool, remove the white pith and shred the skins finely. Keep aside.

Bring three litres water to a boil. Add three teaspoons of salt. Add the drained rice and bring back to a boil. Reduce heat and boil for a further 5-6 minutes, until the rice is 3/4 cooked. Drain the rice and mix half of it with the saffron milk.

Heat oil in a pan; add the onions, cloves, and bay leaves. Sauté until the onions are golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain the excess oil on paper towels.

Now in a large saucepan first add the oil then the plain rice. Sprinkle the lemon rind and half of the fried onions and spices. Add 1/2 tsp salt and then the saffron rice. Add the shredded orange peel and the remaining onions.

Make a few holes down through the rice and sprinkle the lemon and orange Juice and another ½ tsp of salt.

Cover the rice with a moist paper towel and a tight lid. Cook on very low heat for 10 minutes. Mix carefully and serve.

(Recipe from Kohinoor of Rice and Spice;

By Rocky Mohan; Publishers: Roli Books; Price: Rs 295.)

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