The Hindu Business Line : A walk in the clouds

The Indian army offers visitors to their base, at Nathula, a customary cup of hot and rejuvenating tea. Sometimes, even across the border, the Chinese soldiers offer fruit juice or other non-alcoholic liquid refreshments.

Tourists enjoying a yak ride.

More than 15,000 ft up in the clouds, the Nathula Pass, which used to be, at one time, the "Old Silk Route", is one of the highest Indian Army border outposts in the country. Overlooking the Chumbhi Valley of Tibet, the region, in the winter months, is almost perpetually snow-bound. About 62 km from the Sikkim capital Gangtok, Nathula has been opened to tourists only recently. With the required army and police passes, tourists can take a four-hour drive up the mountains to this part of the Indo-China border. Apart from the majestic grandeur of the mountains in all their splendid floral display, with streams tripping down the slopes, water falls and lakes, what is sure to take tourists' breath away is Lake Tsangu, which suddenly appears out of nowhere in all its serene magnificence. The lake, situated nearly 20 km below Nathula Pass, is fast becoming one of the favourite tourist spots of Sikkim, as it is a revered holy spot in the region.

Colourful stalls selling local and Tibetian artefacts, Yak rides, local food and, of course, the calm and beautiful setting of the place, are the major attractions. A few km before Tsangu is the 17th mile transit camp of the army. Here, soldiers deployed to Nathula undergo two weeks of acclimatisation. Further up from Tsangu is Thegu, another army outpost, which even has an ATM counter, a computerised railway reservation facility and an STD booth, all at a height of 12,000 ft!

Even after going through six army check-posts, tourists visiting Nathula will have to surrender their cameras within two km of their final destination. Another interesting fact about Nathula is that there is an international mail exchange between India and China twice a week. On Sundays, it takes place on the Indian side and on Thursdays from the Chinese side.

When travelling to such a high altitude, one needs to be careful of not just the cold, but the strong winds, as well — during inclement weather, the average wind velocity is around 60 km per hour, and the temperature well below zero degrees Celsius. Those not accustomed to the atmosphere at such a high level, if not careful, are susceptible to giddiness, nausea and breathlessness. The military's advice to the visitors is to remain calm and be slow in their movements.

A view of the picturesque Chumbhi Valley in China from the Nathula Pass.

As a gesture of hospitality, the India army offers those visiting their base at Nathula a customary cup of hot tea to rejuvenate the tired travellers. Sometimes, even across the border, the Chinese soldiers offer fruit juice or other non-alcoholic liquid refreshments. Often, they are friendly and are even willing to shake hands with Indian tourists across the wires.

With talks on between India and China on the possible opening of Nathula Pass for trade and commerce in the foreseeable future, this region will be of great importance. Particularly, for the development of the area around this region... . as also Sikkim and West Bengal.

The West Bengal's Industry and Commerce minister Nirupam Sen and Urban Development minister Ashok Bhattacharjee made a trip to Nathula to visit the sight for themselves and also held talks with Sikkim Chief Minister Pawan Chamling on issues relating to the opening up of the Nathula trade route.

Pictures by the author

Article E-Mail :: Comment :: Syndication

Stories in this Section
Touch wood

Not just aesthetics

The sky is the limit

Testing times in the air

Health awareness at a click

The cosmopolitan manager

Oh, for that hearty laugh!

The hills go on forever

A walk in the clouds

The music of life