The Hindu Business Line : Older than history

Mark Twain once wrote, "Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together." Visit Varanasi for the temples, boat rides, shopping and food.

The temples and ghats on the banks of the Ganges at Varanasi.

Uttar Pradesh gets into the news for the wrong reasons. Unfortunately, lost in its political turmoil is the rich tourism potential of beautiful riverside towns and mountain scapes, apart from the flora and fauna of its national parks and reserves.

The area is rich in folklore, tradition and natural beauty. One of the most renowned and visited cities of this part of the Gangetic plain is Varanasi, which we decided to explore during a recent visit. Situated over 780 km south east of New Delhi, Varanasi is the most sacred city among Hindus. At the confluence of the Varun and Assi rivers, the city is also known by its ancient name Kashi or the modern one Benaras.

Any history buff will be delighted to learn that this ancient city finds mention in most of the great epics of India. It was already an old city when Rome was founded, and was a flourishing centre of trade when Buddha came to Sarnath, some 10 km away, to preach his first sermon in 500 B.C. The renowned American novelist Mark Twain once wrote, "Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together."

On a walk along the holy ghats one cold wintry morning, our local guide, a professor at the Benaras Hindu University, proudly said that this `city of temples' has for more than 2,500 years attracted pilgrims from near and far, perhaps because according to Hindu belief, Varanasi is the cosmic centre of the Universe.

Strolling along the riverbanks and gazing at the numerous temples that loomed large over the horizon, one was struck by the image of people from distant lands seeking divine refuge in Varanasi. Adi Sankara and Buddha had walked along these very same banks and spread the message of enlightenment to modern man.

Even today, Varanasi attracts people to its ancient precincts with an uncanny magnetism. Whether you go as a pilgrim or a tourist, it is hard to fight off the effect the city has on you. It is thickly populated and comprises a mix of people... a surprising find for somebody who had expected only devotion and prayer. From NRIs to nirvana seeking hippies, corporate honchos to sadhus and pandits, the city has it all. The best way to soak it all up is to take a boat ride at dawn or at dusk or just lounge around at one of the ghat restaurants and take in the vibrant scenes that unfold.

Speaking of boat rides, any visit to the city is incomplete without a relaxing cruise or two. Whether on small boats or the luxury ones offered by the Taj Ganges Hotel, boat rides are a shutterbug's delight while giving you a feeling of floating back in time. Of course, an occasional corpse might float by or the head of a deal bullock might come too near as one approaches some of the Ghats and burning grounds, but a lot is now being done to clean up the waters and instil a civic sense in the people.

From holy baths to music sessions and foreign crew hungrily shooting footage, the city handles it all, much like the rest of India handles diversity.

The ghats on the east bank of the River Ganges are the destination for most pilgrims and over 52 ghats crowd the east bank of the Ganges for a distance of nearly five km. Most of the ghats were built under royal patronage from the 18th century and the Hindus consider it very auspicious to bathe at the ghats of Varanasi.

Everyday at dawn, thousands of pilgrims can be seen, waist-deep in water, offering salutations to the Sun God, convinced that the waters of the Ganges would wash away all the accumulated sins of their life. There are crematory ghats as well as ones for bathing. A visit to five of them Assi, Dashashwamedh, Harishchandra, Panchganga and Manikarnika on the same day, is believed to confer on the pilgrim great spiritual merit.

The diyas and flowers set afloat on the river at dusk are a fascinating sight, and the Ganga Arti that is performed at dusk is an experience of a lifetime. So, be sure to take your camera!

Of the 2,000-odd temples that dot this ancient city, the most important ones are the Kashi Vishvanath, the Maha Mrityunjaya, the Annapurna and several other temples dedicated to Hanuman, Durga and Ganesha. Try going to as many as you can, for each is a different experience.

Apart from the spiritual aspect, Varanasi has lots to offer in terms of sight-seeing, shopping and food as well. The Ramnagar fort, which is the residential place of Kashi Naresh (former maharaja of Varanasi) across the Ganges at Ramnagar, houses a museum with the exhibits of palanquins, costumes, swords and sabres, and offers a spectacular view of the Ganges.

The Banaras Hindu University, founded by Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya, is considered to be the largest residential university in Asia and is spread over hundreds of acres. It is a centre of learning for Sanskrit, Indian art, culture and music.

Apart from the wonder and fascination of its ancient culture, Varanasi is also a shopper's delight. And if you are on the lookout for gifts and souvenirs then you will definitely not be disappointed. Exquisite silk saris, handicrafts, carpets, rugs and dhurries offer a wide choice. Look around and you might be able to pick up elegant ethnic jewellery and crafted pieces at competitive rates. You can even carry home a musical instrument for which Varanasi is quite famous besides ivory ware, brassware and copper ware. The Chowk, Vishwanath Gali, Godoulia, Dasashvamedh and the Government Emporia or souvenir shops approved by Uttar Pradesh Tourism are some of the places to visit.

Be armed with a pair of rubber slippers or good walking shoes because a lot of shopping has to be done in narrow lanes where cars cannot reach! Don't be surprised if you see leading designers rubbing shoulders with you in the narrow lanes of the wholesale markets where one can get the famed Benarasi silk saris!

The food experience is a definite must for the gourmand traveller! Most Benarasis love eating and will encourage you to try their painstakingly made sweetmeats! No time to be calorie conscious here! Benarasi mithais are usually milk-based sweets flavoured with cardamom, saffron, essence of rose extract, a garnish of nuts, and a fine layer of edible silver foil. Layers of fresh cream lovingly embrace dry fruits that are hidden in the interiors of the famed malai paan. Thickened milk is left out in the dew overnight and then flavoured with saffron. This mix is then beaten to a stiff froth and would put any soufflé to shame. This Nimmish is undisputedly a delicacy.

The Benarasi paan, made famous by Amitabh Bachchan in the film Don, is a heavily flavoured betel leaf and a perfect finish to a great Indian meal!

Visiting one pizzeria in one of the narrow lanes one evening, we were surprised to learn that the owner had left a flourishing business in the West to make Varanasi his home! Such is the magnetism of the city.

Fact file

How to get there: Varanasi is well connected by air and train to several cities in India and is on the popular Delhi-Agra-Khajuraho-Varanasi route. Kolkata trains pass through Mughalsarai, which is 10 km south of Varanasi.

Where to stay: Hotels and lodges abound to suit all budgets, and tourist packages are aplenty.

How to get around: For local transport, city buses, taxis and auto-rickshaws are readily available but the walking experience is truly the most remarkable one!

Article E-Mail :: Comment :: Syndication

Stories in this Section
Veggie supreme

No more lost ticket woes

Instead of aspirin...

Going ethnic on education

Call it customer mania

Hello...

A real feel of Middle-earth

Older than history

Expatriate luxury in Indonesia

A teetotaller's tavern