The Hindu Business Line : Seldom seen, much admired

As far as the eyes could see was the green canopy of the coconut palms, now swaying in the breeze, now still. Our weariness vanished in no time at Varkala in Kerala

A view of the beach.

Talk of Kerala and the images that come to mind are those of the iconic tourist destinations on the backwaters of Alapuzha, (erstwhile Alleppey) the Periyar Lake, Kumarakom and Kovalam. But tucked away amidst these more popular tourist spots is the Varkala beach resort with its pristine beauty.

Right from the onset of our trip beginning from Howrah station of Kolkata, we kept making anxious queries about hotspot tourists locales in Kerala and whether we would be on a houseboat traversing the backwaters in Alapuzha and when exactly we could go bird watching in Kumarakom and elephant spotting in the Thekkady National Park.

Throughout our arduous 36-hour-long train journey, our tour managers told us of the various places that we would be visiting during our nine-day sojourn at Kerala. They, kept us in suspense about the seaside surprise reserved for us apart from the usual bouquet of the well-known tourist destinations.

So, having done the much-treaded tourist circuit of Kochi, Munnar, Periyar and Kumakarom, we set off for our tryst with God's own country. Kovalam was till then the hottest destination for all of us. For the first-timer it was a must-see. For the rest, we thought till then that a world-famous destination like Kovalam was always good enough for a second or a third visit (more on this later).

After crisscrossing the State through some hundreds of kilometres, we were finally headed towards Varkala. By this time, we had been travelling for nearly six hours since daybreak. The limbs were aching (Kerala's good road condition notwithstanding), but we were scarcely prepared for what lay in store for us at Varkala.

For a moment, the entire group of 14 stood entranced in front of the high cliffs which rose majestically from the coastline embracing the beach as in a light hug, before giving way to the coconut groves. The azure sky found its reflection in a perfect blue sea with the waves crashing against the rocky cliff; occasionally the salty spray splashed on our faces as we stood gazing down from the promenade just in front of our hotel. To the left and to the right, as far as the eyes could see, was the green canopy of the coconut palms, now swaying in the breeze, now still, as if waiting for the next big wave to restart their symphony. Our weariness vanished in no time.

Located on the western coast, Varkala lies between the Alapuzha beach and the Kollam beach in Kerala — a State that boasts at least six seaside resorts. But the sheer grandeur of Varkala sets it apart as does its unspoilt beauty.

Sunset at the Varkala beach

For the religious minded, Varkala holds more than one attraction. The Janardhan Swamy Temple is located close to the beach. The temple houses a 1,000-year-old sculpted figure of Lord Vishnu. Seen by some as the Varanasi of the South, Varkala is also called Papanasam or Papanashini as a dip into the waters of this beach is believed to wash away one's sins. We did no such thing as none amongst us wanted to `pollute' such natural beauty. We felt that Varkala and the little mentioned Vembanad Lake (Asia's largest fresh water lake) at Kumarakom are some of Kerala's best-kept tourism secrets. And perhaps it is better that way.

We saw at Kovalam what over exposure on the one hand and indulgence by the authorities on the other can do. Some disturbing pointers to the shape of things to come were also evident at the Varkala beach resort. The promenade overhanging the beach teemed with shops and restaurants, the majority of which were not reflective of local culture. The State Government would perhaps do well to put in place some checks to ensure that Varkala does not go the Kovalam way.

Fact file

How to get there: Varkala is 42 km from Thiruvananthapuram and is approachable by road or rail.

Where to stay: Established chains have their hotels there even as new ones are coming up. Check to see the ones that provide a sea view.

Weather: Hot in the summer months and pleasant otherwise. But be prepared for the clouds and occasional spells of rain in October as the monsoon recedes.

Some travelling tips: Keep your luggage light as most of the hotels are at an elevation, making it difficult for larger vehicles to access the hotel lobby. .

Pictures by the author

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