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D.B.N. Murthy

The snow-covered Panchchuli peaks, the refreshing calm of the mineral pond and picturesque drives thrill the first-time visitor to Munsiyari.

One might wonder what makes the small town of Munsiyari so different from the rest of the hill-stations in the Kumaon region of Uttaranchal State. For one, it is the remoteness of the place, which makes this 2,290-metre high town a peaceful locale, offering that much-needed tranquillity that tourists seek from hill-stations.

And the fact that it offers a splendid view of the mighty Panchchuli and other snow-capped Himalayan peaks from close quarters is reason enough to compel any nature lover to its soothing precincts. Whether it is for a quiet vacation or one charged with adventure, Munsiyari offers tourists no dearth of activity, and the friendly people of this town only make you feel more welcome.

The road from Thal, the nearest big town, to Munsiyari is exciting but hazardous. Normally a van or a jeep takes about four hours to cover this 72-km stretch, provided there are no landslides to block the road. There are hardly any buses plying in this part of the State and so private vans and jeeps are the only means of travelling from one place to another. It is a scenic drive all the way and the journey has its fair share of picture-perfect vistas of mountains, valleys, mountain-streams, waterfalls, flooded-culverts and quaint villages. But the region also has landslide prone zones that could send shivers up your spine.

The sight of the snow-covered Panchchuli and other peaks, shining in all their glory and at such a close range, thrills the first-time visitor. What one might think is the tallest peak, being the nearest, is actually only one of the five Panchchuli peaks.

The Goriganga river, with its origin in the Milam Glacier, flows noisily in the valley deep beneath. The Public Works Department guesthouse, Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam Limited and a few private lodges provide accommodation to visitors, while dhabas serve up scrumptious fare. There are a number of treks for those who feel up to it. Up the mountainside is a quiet place where a kund (pond) is located amidst sylvan surroundings. The mineral rich kund is crystal clear and is a delight to the eye and the spirit. No packaged `mineral' water could come anywhere near such natural perfection.

It's a tough climb to the Khaliya Top for a peep into the distant Nanda Devi National Park and a glorious view of Nanda Devi East peak. Those who are not so familiar with this region would do well to hire trained guides and porters to reach the Milam Glacier, the trek to which could take about seven to eight days to complete. The rich biodiversity of the region is something to be cherished and conserved. Professional trekkers could go to the base camps of the five Panchchuli peaks.

Dharchula, on the Indo-Nepal border, is a rough ride of six hours from where one can follow the trail to the Kailas-Mansarvor trek, though a permit is needed to go beyond Tawaghat.

Munsiyari is home to one of the greatest women-mountaineers — Malika Virdi — who lives on the mountainside in the Sarmoli village. Her achievements include climbing a few tough mountain peaks such as Kagbhusan, Brigupant and Panchchuli.

The All Women Trans-Himalayan trekking expedition that covered India, Bhutan and Nepal over a period of six months during 1997 saw her leading a three-woman team to success. She is a social activist working for the empowerment of women, besides being a sarpanch of the village van panchayat. Her knowledge of the flora, fauna and topography of the region is legendary. She would definitely have more than a few tips for those interested in trekking/mountaineering, besides information on the biodiversity of the region.

Malika's husband, Theo, is also a trekker and mountaineer. He is the director of the Himalayan region of the Foundation for Ecological Security, located in Munsiyari. Apart from being an expert on the ecology of the region, he is also an avid trekker and mountaineer.

For a peaceful vacation amidst the mountains, Munsiyari has few equals in Kumaon. Its spectacular view of the Panchchuli peaks is compensation enough for lack of other attractions such as the presence of a lake or boating. The adventurous have a good number of trekking trails like the Milam glacier, and those interested in the Himalayan ecology can study the biodiversity of the surroundings.

Picture by the author

Fact file

How to get there: You can take the Almora-Bageshwar-Thal-Munsiyari route or the Pithoragarh-Thal-Munsiyari road.

Where to stay: Kumaon Mandal guesthouse, PWD inspection bungalow, private lodges.

When to go: Throughout the year. During winter, it snows in Munsiyari.

How to get around: Jeeps and vans.

What to carry: A pair of good shoes, warm clothing and trekking-gear for trekkers.

Tips: Guides and porters can be hired from reputed private agencies in Munsiyari.

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