The Hindu Business Line : Clean and chic

A blend of the old and the new, with the former marking its presence in the stolid colonial-styled structures and the latter in hip pubs and shopping arcades. That just about sums up Colombo.

A Buddha statue at the Gangaramaya temple in Colombo

Doesn't it look like Kerala?" is the first question that comes to your mind even as you begin the one-hour drive from the Bandaranaike International Airport on the outskirts of Colombo into the city. The lush green landscape, particularly the coconut trees, makes you feel very much at home. You don't realise you are on foreign soil till you enter the city.

As you drive into it, what catches your eye is the huge number of foreign cars and the excellent roads that they ply on. Toyotas, Nissans, Fords, Hondas, Mitsubishis... the list of the automobile majors that have a presence on the streets of Colombo is endless. To the Chennaiite who is familiar with undisciplined traffic, maniacal speed hawks and potholed roads, the experience of Colombo's roads was really something to write home about. For one thing traffic signals were actually obeyed and the beautiful landscape was untarnished by billboards.

The city itself is a beautiful blend of all things ancient and modern. While there are many beautiful structures that the British have left behind, Colombo also has buildings like the World Trade Centre (Twin Towers here too) that stand testimony to its changing face.

Before you venture out into the city, please remember to communicate in simple English. Most of the people whom you will be dealing with — shopkeepers, autorickshaw-wallas (autorickshaws are called trishaws in Sri Lanka) have only basic English skills. Like in Indian cities, the trishaw drivers will try to squeeze the maximum fare from you, as there are no metres, so make sure to bargain hard. Your hotel staff will help you identify reasonable rates. Also, make sure to get the right area codes of the city.

You could begin your tour of the city from Galle Road. Extending from Galle Face Green to Galle, a city in the south, this is the longest road in Sri Lanka. It is also the most important, we found out, as we passed the US Embassy, the British and the Indian High Commissions and Temple Trees, the official residence of the Sri Lankan Prime Minister. The city's best hotels are located here.

The checkered patio at the Galle Face Hotel.

Galle Face Green, with its park-like serenity is where the city's sweethearts hang out. As one local put it: "All you see here is the sea, an umbrella and two people!" She was not wrong!

A colonial legacy

That the country was under British rule is evident from all those majestic and awesome structures that the colonial rulers have left behind in this island country. And Colombo is no exception.

Perhaps, the best example of colonial-styled architecture is the Old Parliament House (now the President's Secretariat). It's a pity though that photography of the building is prohibited. Most of the city's hotels right from their décor to their furnishings bear the unmistakable stamp of Colombo's colonial past.

The oldest of these is the Galle Face Hotel at one end of the Galle Face Green, which was established in 1864. It has played host to a number of dignitaries and top personalities, including our late Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. Stunning to a first-time visitor is the hotel's impressive collection of antique furniture. Its checkerboard patio extends almost into the sea and affords a magnificent view of the ocean.

Yet another example of Colombo's colonial legacy is the Grand Orient Hotel. Originally constructed as barracks for the British army, it was converted into a hotel in 1875. Situated close to the harbour, it offers a picturesque view of the harbour's passenger terminal. The best vantage point is the Harbour View Room, situated on the fourth floor of the hotel.

It was interesting to note that the suites here are named after the famous personalities who stayed here, such as the Dr Jose Rizal Suite and Anton Chekhov Suite. While it's fun touring these places of historical interest, visitors might face a bit of a problem in the form of sudden traffic diversion as the President's official residence is located close by.

For the devout tourist

Any first-time visitor to Sri Lanka would be surprised to see the number of Buddha statues on the streets of Colombo. There are as many Buddhist temples in the city. The Gangaramaya temple, Vajiramaya temple, the Raja Maha Viharaya and the Gotami Viharaya all attract tourists. Aside from these there are also Hindu temples and colonial-styled churches.

As a rule, visitors to the Gangaramaya temple need to pay an entrance fee of SL Rs 100. This fee is waived if you are a devotee. But trying to convince the temple authorities that you are there for the sole purpose of worship is a tough task.

Do keep in mind that almost all places of worship in Colombo close around 6.30 p.m.

A shopper's paradise

No visitor to Colombo should skip a visit to the Duplication Road, officially called R.A. De Mel Mawatha. The line of shopping destinations such as the House of Fashions and Beverly Street, together with other upmarket fashion stores and showrooms, make the road a shopper's paradise.

A friend, familiar with Colombo, made sure to drop in this bit of advice before we left: "Don't miss Odel and House of Fashions." So, naturally our first stopover was House of Fashions, a good bargain place that leaves you spoilt for choice — there's an assorted collection of garments, toys, sports goods, accessories and travel bags.

The Beverley Street is a one-of-its-kind fashion store, as it is open for 24 hours a day.

Of course, the ultimate experience in shopping is Odel, though it's slightly more on the expensive side. The simple and non-fussy exteriors belie the wholesome shopping experience that is guaranteed inside the store. Everything from branded clothing to accessories, jewellery, cosmetics, tea, books and household appliances is available here. The store also has a café and an ice-cream parlour. Of course the strong Indian rupee vis-à-vis the Sri Lankan currency (US $ 1 fetches you SL Rs 96) is a huge advantage when you consider the price tags.

If you are on the look out for local stuff, like intricate Sri Lankan handicraft, Laksala, a Government-run handicrafts emporium, is a must-visit. Get more local flavour at Barefoot, Galle Road — where you will find a good collection of clothing and accessories designed with handloom fabric.

Shopping done, along with another female journalist, one decided to check out the city's nightlife, which we found was surprisingly active given the deserted roads and streets. The bars, casinos and pubs, as anywhere in the world, spring to life only when darkness sets in.

Though it was a hectic four days at Colombo, the city did bowl us over with its clean — most importantly, pollution-free roads when compared to Indian cities — at the same time hip hangouts.

Pictures by the author

Fact file

How to get there: The best way to reach Colombo is by air. Indian Airlines, Air Lanka, Jet Airways and Air Sahara have daily connections from Chennai.

Where to stay: There are a host of five-star and three-star hotels in Colombo that cater to the needs of tourists. Some of them are the Taj Samudra, Galle Face Hotel, Grand Orient Hotel and Hilton Residency.

What to eat: For a gourmet, Colombo is the place to be. There are restaurants that offer authentic Lebanese, Swiss, Chinese, Greek, Thai, Korean and Italian apart from Indian and Sri Lankan cuisines.

Seafood is really good in Sri Lanka. But if you are a strict vegetarian, you'll not get the variety that the non-vegetarians enjoy.

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