The Hindu Business Line : Magic of Mussourie

Welcome to Mussourie where winding ghat roads make for pleasant drives and mountains rise up into the sky; and where nature's bounty spreads lush and thick.

The beautiful Kempty Falls.

Do you wish to wallow in the lap of nature? Do you want to visit some exotic locations and explore hilly terrain? Then head to Uttaranchal. Formerly known as Uttarkhand, the region houses some of the most excellent hill resorts in the country. This bounteous heart of nature is divided into Garhwal and Kumaon, the former through which the `sacred rivers' of Alakananda and Bagirathi flow. It also has a pretty hill station, Mussourie.

What strikes the first time visitor is the zigzag ghat road that winds its way along the terraced fields of Bhatta into the mountains to Mussourie. It is just an hour's drive (may be less) from Dehradun, which has its own charm. Being the capital of Uttaranchal, Dehradun is well connected to all the cities in North.

On reaching Mussourie, we are stopped beneath the main Mall Road since four wheelers are not allowed to enter the Market. We have to clamber a fleet of steps to reach the top level where the hotel is located. This cannot be avoided as most of the hotels are located on this road. Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam's (GVMN) Garhwal Terrace offers an excellent view of the Doon Valley. But if you come expecting to see many places, you may be disappointed, for though the travel brochures mention a lot of locations, there are only a few worth visiting.

A good choice would be to walk along the Mall Road, or engage a cycle rickshaw to take you around the place. The Mall Road provided a great view of the surrounding areas and is dotted with sit outs facing the valley, where you can relax and enjoy the breeze.

The malls constitute an attractive feature of Mussourie Hills and it would be worth your time to visit at least some of them. You can either shop at Kulri Bazar, which is at the centre of Mussourie, or take a peaceful stroll along Gandhi Chowk (restricted entry for four-wheelers) which extends from the Library to Municipal Gardens. You can also visit the upscale Landour Bazaar. Mussourie's promenade extends from Cloud's End to Rockville. It is a pleasure to walk down the Mall, from Gandhi Chowk to the Clock Tower. Along the way you can shop for local handicrafts and mementos. You will pass through beautiful gardens, the National Academy of Administration, famous schools such as St George's Oakgrove, Wynberg and the Tibetan School. Enjoy the relaxing atmosphere all along.

If you long to tour some more, we recommend some scenic spots. Situated a 15-km drive away from Missourie is the most beautiful waterfall of the region — the Kempty falls. You have to climb down at least 50 ft to reach the exact spot. The waters gush out of the surrounding mountains and split into five beautiful falls. Sadly, though, the natural beauty of the site has been spoiled as the area has been paved over and built upon. The smoke billowing out of the large ovens and the cauldrons and the resultant stench threaten to overwhelm the scenic splendour of the area.

Enjoy a thrilling cable car ride to Gun Hill, the second highest peak in Mussourie. The ride is only 400 metres but makes for a truly memorable experience. The Gun Hill can also be reached via the Bridle Path, which forks off from Mall Road near Kutchery; the drive takes about 20 minutes. The hill offers a panoramic view of the Himalayan ranges. It is said that when India was still under British rule, a gun that was mounted on the top was fired at mid-day. This helped people tell the time and that's how the hill got its name. If you're up for a pony ride, head straight to Camel's Back Road. The main charm of this road is the horse riding and a view of the sunset anywhere in the Himalayas is superb.

The religious minded can pay their respects at the Lakshminarayan Mandir and the picnickers can frolic in the beautiful Municipal Gardens. Those interested in heritage sites can drive to Park Estate. The ruins here remind one of the adventures of Sir George Everest who mapped the Himalayas.

Though Mussourie has become commercialised, its serene surroundings and healthy environs still make for a pleasant stay. Indeed, there is no other place in Garhwal more suitable for relaxation.

Fact file

How to get there

By air: The nearest airport is Jolly Grant.

By rail: Dehradun is the nearest rail-head (35 km).

By road: Mussourie has a well-connected road network with all the major cities of North India.

Where to stay: There are lots of hotels on the Mall Road to suit all types of budget. Classic Heights and Sterling Resorts are for those who can stand the high cost. GMVN's Garwal Terrace is a medium budget hotel. There are also small hotels to suit any budget.

Where to eat: Almost all the hotels have restaurants. But good and tasty food at reasonable rates is available only in the smaller hotels. For example, there is a small South Indian restaurant near the clock tower, which though it doesn't boast lavish interiors offers sumptuous food!

What to do: You can go on refreshing jogs in the early mornings and schedule your sightseeing for the rest of the day. In the evenings, there's nothing much to do except laze around and relax.

Other activities that will get you to really enjoy the place are pony rides and long walks. The really adventurous can go on treks.

When to visit: The period between March and April or between September and October is the ideal time to visit Mussourie. Avoid the peak season, which is from May to June as the whole ridge is will be heavily crowded and rates shoot up incredibly. During the March-April/September-October, on the other hand, you may also get big discounts. If you want to see snow, then the winter period between December and January is the best time to visit.

Picture by the author

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