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Shubhra Gupta

How do sunscreens help? Basically, they absorb ultraviolet rays and prevent them from damaging the skin. But before you slather on that sunscreen, a few tips first.

We are a sun happy people. Do we really need sunscreens? Yes, we absolutely do, says New-Delhi based dermatologist Shehla Agarwal. But, she goes on to add, she would be happier if people were more aware and zealous about sun protection. By which she means that before you slather on that sunscreen, put in these steps first: When the heat is at its zenith, like in May to July, avoid going out during 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. If you have to, make sure you wear protective layered clothing, even if you travel in cars with tinted windows. And never step out without a good, effective sunscreen.

The sun is a great source of vitamin D3, and sunlight is a wonderful mood enhancer. D3 is turned by the kidney and the liver into vitamin D, which has an important role in preventing rickets. The sun's ultra violet rays also have an anti-bacterial action, which provide relief to acne-sufferers. But skin specialists will tell you that the sun can be too much of a good thing: Too much exposure to the sun is a much faster and more damaging factor of alteration of the skin than intrinsic aging.

The beneficial effects of ultra-violet rays should not mask a much more insidious reality — other than causing sunburn, says Claude Bouillon in Skin, A Living Envelope, the sun speeds up cutaneous aging, creates wrinkles, and is the cause of several types of allergies as well as cancers of the skin.

There's a lot of jargon surrounding ultraviolet A and B rays: All we need to remember is that both are equally harmful, especially UVA rays, not only are they 50 to 100 times more abundant that UVB rays and unlike the latter, present all year round in all climes; not only do they penetrate glass, and therefore window panes, which is impenetrable to UVB rays, but above all, they are abundantly absorbed by the skin.

UVA rays are responsible for most photo allergic reactions to medication (how many times have you broken out in a rash after a bout of antibiotics when your doctor neglected to warn you about the possibilities of a rash?), sun allergies, and the potential danger of UVA radiation in the development of skin cancers.

So, how do sunscreens help? Basically, they absorb ultraviolet rays and prevent them from damaging the skin. How do you choose the right sunscreen? According to our dermatologist, look at the sun protection factor (SPF) and choose. But that doesn't mean that the higher the SPF, the better the sunscreen. The effectiveness of the product depends on the weather and skin type. For example, Indian skins (largely, brown-skinned, or variants thereof) are best served with sunscreens with SPF between 15 and 25. We need a higher SPF only if we are headed for high-radiation areas such as the mountains, or the beach.

How should sunscreens be used? Shehla recommends first, an ice-cube over the face, then a thin layer of sunscreen (just a blob if cream based; a little more if a gel) to be spread evenly. And then, to seal it in, a layer of face-powder. But if you do not have the patience for this routine, just slap on some sunscreen, and you are ready for the outdoors.

When should sunscreens be used? Always use a sunscreen at least 20 minutes before going out, because it takes that much time for the lotion or the cream to become effective. There are two kinds of people, says Shehla: Those who will use a sunscreen an hour before heading for the pool, by which time perspiration would have done the sunscreen in.

The other kind will stand by the pool and apply it, and then complain of how they became `darker'! Ideally, reapply every two hours if you are the sort who sweats easily. Or if you are going to be in the sun for a long period of time.

There are currently a mind-boggling number of sunscreens in the market. Lakme has recently come out with its aloe-vera and orange - extracts based `Sun Expert' range, which comprises a water-based `soufflé' (Rs 75 for 55 gm) for those with oily skins, a sunscreen lotion for normal skins (Rs 50 for 60 ml), an oil-free sunblock for sensitive skins (Rs 75 for 50 gm), and a skin brightening gel, for after-sun use (Rs 85 for a 55-gm pack).

I did a trial usage for a few days of the sun-block, and the gel: The former gets easily absorbed, and has a pleasing fragrance; the latter feels nicely invigorating after a day out in the sun, and the refreshing feel lingers for quite a while. The only trouble is that none of these Lakme products come with an SPF index. Something for parent company Hindustan Lever Ltd to think about?

Other sunscreens which Dr Shehla Aggarwal recommends are Lotus Herbals, though these are only for those who can handle heavy cream-based sunscreens, and Garnier, which is suitable to all skin types, because of its lighter properties. What she recommends highly is the spray sunscreen from Vichy Laboratories (SPF 30, 125 ml, Rs 750) which is well worth its high price: After a two-day usage, one is inclined to agree with her, because it spreads on beautifully, leaving no uncomfortable oily residue.

She is also happy with a couple of sunscreens manufactured by Indian pharmaceutical companies, especially the UV Sorb gel (SPF 15 for a 60gm tube, Rs 110), an orange-coloured gel, which sits lightly on the skin. Just make sure that the sunscreen you use for swimming is water-resistant. Also remember that no matter what, chlorinated water and sweat will strip away even the strongest cream or lotion or gel. So reapply, reapply, reapply. Also, if you happen to run out of your favourite brand, keep some lacto-calamine lotion handy, use a talcum layer over it and you have a very effective sunscreen.

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