The Hindu Business Line : Brunei beckons

A trip to this tiny Islamic country is a fascinating experience. Offering a taste of modern monarchy, Brunei is full of colour and mystique. Its numerous mosques are an architectural delight to the eye.

All that we knew about Brunei was that its Sultan was the richest man in the world, that the tiny Islamic country on the big island of Borneo was rich in oil. On our arrival at Bander Sri Begawan, the capital, we were greeted by a well-developed, modern city and colourfully dressed, friendly people. We had the chance of an encounter with His Royal Highness who, contrary to our imagination, was dressed in a simple colourful shirt and trousers and seemed to be very much at ease with people. There was no doubt that Brunei was a modern kingdom ruled by a king with a modern mindset.

In ancient times, Indian merchants called Brunei `Karpur Dweep', owing to its rich camphor resources. Today, oil and gas have replaced camphor and turned Brunei into a very wealthy country with one of the highest living standards. It is one of the few countries that doesn't have a foreign debt or a budget deficit.

Nestled between the South China Sea and North Borneo's rainforest, the Sultanate of Brunei Darussalam exudes colour and mystique. Just 443 km north of the equator, Brunei's land area is wedged between the Malaysian Borneo states of Sabah and Sarawak.

The country is ruled according to Islamic values and traditions by the present monarch, His Majesty Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Mu'izzaddin Waddaulah, the 29th ascendant of the world's oldest continuously reigning royal line.

Brunei has four districts and Brunei Muara, the smallest of the four, is the site of the capital Bander Seri Begawan. Most locals refer to their capital simply as Bander, the Malay word for a major seaport or city.

One thing sure to be of interest to visitors are the numerous mosques that dot Brunei Muara. One of them, the Hassanal Bolkiah mosque, is even called the second Taj Mahal; it has gold-plated domes and is made of rich marble. Even the fence and the gate are made of gold. The Sultan is supposed to have built this mosque for him to pray. But he visits different mosques for his prayers, just to be among his people.

The Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque in the bustling town of Bander is one of the national mosques with its soaring minarets and golden dome. Built with Italian marble, gold mosaic and English stained glass, its craftsmanship reflects classical Islamic architecture. The mosque is named after the sultan's late father, Sultan Sir Muda Omar Ali Saifuddin, who is regarded as the architect of modern Brunei.

Anchored in a lagoon is a replica of a 16th-century mahligai, or royal barge, where religious ceremonies such as Holy Qur'an readings were conducted during the 1960s and early 1970s.

The other national mosque is Jame' Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque built to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the present Sultan. Known as Kiarong Mosque to the locals, it is a magnificent building intricately ornamented with minarets and shimmering golden domes.

Kampung Ayer is Bander's sprawling Water Village, also called the Venice of the East, and has the largest number of people living on water. There is free parking on the shore here for inhabitants of Water Village to park their vehicles. The village's centuries-old web of homes, markets, medical clinics and police and fire stations all stand on stilts over the shallows of the Brunei river. Water taxis are the most popular means of transport. In recent years, Water Village has become modern, is fire-proof and equipped with the latest infrastructure. On the other side of the ancient Water Village are high-rise modern buildings showing off Brunei's adoption of latest technology.

Bruneian people are open and friendly, with a high standard of living; each family has an average of three cars, but running them is cheap considering that one gallon of petrol costs just $1.

Situated in the heart of the city is the Royal Regalia Building built to commemorate the Silver Jubilee (1992) of the Sultan's accession to throne. It houses a unique collection of royal Bruneian artefacts including the royal chariot, gold and silver ceremonial armoury, the traditional jewel-encrusted coronation crowns and a replica of the throne used by His Majesty on state occasions.

Almost every monument in Brunei is connected to the royal family and the Istana Nurul Iman is no exception. The home of the Sultan and the location of the Prime Ministerial offices, it is the largest residential palace in the world. It is built on a verdant riverside sprawl on hills and has 1,788 rooms. We were told that the Palace is kept open during the Hari Raya celebrations at the end of the fasting month of Ramadan, for people to come and meet their monarch. For three days, the Sultan opens his doors to his people and invites them to a great banquet.

No visit is complete without shopping, and in Brunei the most popular shopper's choice is the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah complex. The huge multiplex features designer ware boutiques, department stores and fine dining arcades. Brunei's International Conventional Centre has two theatre-style convention halls that can accommodate between 800 and 1,000 people along with many conference rooms, banquet and dining halls — all equipped with state-of-the-art communications facilities and a full scale catering kitchen.

A 20-minute drive from the town centre is the Jerudong Amusement Park, which offers numerous technical joy rides for a nominal charge to all visitors. The park, which welcomes approximately 2,000 visitors every day, is a gift from the Sultan on his 48th Birthday in 1994. Games and rides vary from the old-fashioned carousal ride to the wild action of futuristic simulators and larger-than-life chess boards.

Brunei is an eco-friendly place with thick rainforests and a sun-warmed ribbon of sand caresses the beaches along the South China Sea. A visit to this Kingdom of unexpected treasures is indeed fascinating.

Fact file

How to get there: Royal Brunei Airlines operates two flights a week from Kolkata via Singapore to Bander Seri Begawan. Alternately, one can take any flight to Singapore and then take a connecting flight to Bander Seri Begawan.

Visa regulations: Indian nationals need a visa to go to Brunei and this can be obtained from Brunei Embassy in New Delhi.

Accommodation: A choice of hotels from five star to budget hotels is available.

Getting around: The frequency of public buses is limited, as there are not many users. Taxis, however, are available.

Currency: Brunei Dollar. 1(Brunei) $ = Rs 25 approximately.

For more information log onto: www.bruneiair.com.

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