The Hindu Business Line : On a fashion mission

He might have worked with filmstars, but Manish Malhotra says his clothes have never been filmi. That's helped him cross over to mainstream designing with ease.

I'm really busy with the film I am directing which will go on the floor in January 2005. I thought it's time I brought out my own label so that people can see a bit of the glamour and colour that has gone into my styles over the years," said ace fashion designer Manish Malhotra during the launch of his label.

Malhotra's passion for his work can be seen from the way he wants everything in place, the saris hanging at just the right angles and the lighting just so.

There's no impatience in his manner as he goes about explaining his vision and even discusses a certain cut or a colour to substantiate his point, his eyes flashing intensely, his manner brisk but endearing and no starry tantrums Bollywood style

`Filmi' fashion guru

An undisputed fashion guru to several film-stars, Malhotra has come a long way since he designed Juhi Chawla's costumes for Swarg. He brought about a change in the filmi fashion scene with his unique approach of working out the entire look for the character, as opposed to merely designing the garments.

The list of film-stars he has worked with is long — Sridevi, Urmila Matondkar, Karisma Kapoor, Kajol, Raveena, Manisha Koirala, Madhuri Dixit, Twinkle Khanna, Shilpa Shetty, Kareena Kapoor, Aishwarya Rai, Rani Mukerji, Preity Zinta, Shah Rukh Khan and Aamir Khan.

In Rangeela, he transformed Urmila Matondkar into a sex symbol and gave Karisma Kapoor a complete makeover in Raja Hindustani. Malhotra takes all the accolades in his stride besides several film awards.

In 1998, when he ventured into mainstream designing, his clientele included the Godrejs, Ambanis, Rhea Pillai and Avanti Birla.

He also designed Michael Jackson's costume for his appearance at the Bollywood Awards held in New York, while Naomi Campbell, on a visit to Mumbai, picked up a pair of his fancy denims.

The Manish Malhotra label

Mumbai's Sheetal Design Studio showcased his Enchanted Ensemble collection with its hallmark chic and impeccable finish. But this was not enough for him.

"I was designing for other outlets. My current label is `Manish Malhotra' for Manish Malhotra." He is happy that he can now express himself under his own label.

About his flamboyant style, he says, "My designs are my own version of reasonably priced ready-to-wear. My clothes should be worn for an occasion like a party or dinner. It's not for wearing at home or sleeping in! Even the basic T-shirt, which is about Rs 1,100, has glamour in the form of sequins on it. That's the way I look at clothes. Each piece is a celebration."

Describing the collection, he says, "I've used a lot of black, prints and crinkle fabric for the first time. There's a lot of powder blue and magenta too."

The collection of saris, skirts, T-shirts, Kaftan-cut kurtis, and a range of men's wear have received good response at all the stores that stock his label.

The stores include Evoluzione at Chennai and Bangalore, Strip in Hyderabad, Kimaya in Delhi, and Ensemble, Kimaya and Shlok in Mumbai.

Malhotra is perhaps the first film costume designer to cross over to mainstream haute couture. "I do believe I have bridged the gap between film costume designing and mainstream designing. But that's also because my clothes have never been filmi in the true sense. I have created a look for each star based on the character she plays, using designing in the way any mainstream designer would," he says.

He adds that every mainstream couture designer would want to do movies. "But here I am crossing over and moving to fashion stores!" But that's the way he has always played the game. Taking risks, ruled by his instincts and following his heart's desire when it comes to pursuing what he's passionate about.

Foray into TV and direction

His penchant to constantly re-invent himself has led him to anchor The Manish Malhotra Show on Zoom channel, where he talks to celebrities about fashion and style.

He is now working on a new film, which is about "music and dance and a young man's desire to be a dancer," says Malhotra, who has also written the story and done the screenplay with two other writers.

When asked if a book is on the cards sharing with readers his experiences with film stars, he says, "I wouldn't want to do a book that betrays the secrets people have entrusted me with."

But such a book might indeed materialise, he adds, after 25 years!

Response can be sent to life@thehindu.co.in

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