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Sudha Menon

A delicious introduction to the `real thing' in Chinese cuisine... at Pune's Mainland China.

For an entire generation of epicures that has lapped up the indigenous avatar of Chinese cuisine with appreciative, robust vigour, the taste of the `real thing' can come as a bit of a shock. And if an eatery can subtly engineer a change, and even have them craving for more, it could rightly be termed a culinary coup of sorts. Pune's Mainland China is part of a chain that has carved a considerable reputation for itself.

Located on the upmarket Boat Club Road, we discover that the well-appointed restaurant scores virtually on every count: ambience, quality of food, service, consistency and presentation. The fact that the place is teeming with people is testimony to its popularity in the city. Walk in any day and Anjan Chaterjee's restaurant is bound to have a sprinkling of corporate biggies breaking bread even as they crunch numbers, Page 3 celebrities catching up on what's hot and what's not, and committed food lovers tucking in with gusto.

The ambience created by the chestnut-brown wooden tables with matched wooden lattices on the ceiling-high windows is pleasing. A Chinese mural on one wall, Chinese artefacts in cupolas elsewhere and a couple of embroidered panels in gold on black complete the Oriental setting. As the proof of the pudding is in the eating, we quickly get down to the main business of the day.

The leather-bound menu gives the usual favourites — American Chop Suey, Hong Kong Chicken, et al — a prominent miss. Sweet Corn Soup, though, finds a place amongst a host of other exotic sounding ones. We settle for the Cucumber and Water Chestnut with Mint soup. Even as we debate over the main course and whether or not to skip the starter, Nripendra Chaudhary, the affable manager arrives at our table to help us choose.

The place prides itself on customising a recipe to suit a client's taste. We are intrigued by preparations like Yuling's Hot and Numbing Chicken and Drunken Chicken in Shaoxiang Wine, but decide to be a little less adventurous. A few minutes later we have it all tied up: Stir fried Corn to start with, Three Treasure Vegetables in spicy Hunan Sauce, Tsing Hoi Chicken and steamed rice for the main course. The corn preparation is better than anticipated: plump golden kernels tossed with diced spring onions and red chillies simply melt in the mouth.

The soup is a clear, deep golden-yellow liquid embellished with chunks of cucumber and water chestnuts, and undoubtedly flavoured with secret ingredients. The taste measures up to the appearance: the unusual sweet-sourness of the soup offset perfectly by the refreshing crunchiness of the vegetables.

The main course is already perched on the table, steaming invitingly. The vegetables — pakchoi, a generous helping of chewy black Chinese mushrooms and slivers of baby corn complemented with a rich red-brown sauce. It is the ideal complement to the steaming hot rice unblemished by any seasoning, save salt. The cubed chicken dish is designed to add a little pungency to the culinary proceedings, though it can be tailored to your needs.

Next, the sweet tooth demands attention. This time, we decide to take a call on the Coconut Rolls with Honey Butter Sauce. Six pieces of the sweet version of spring rolls (stuffed with a confection of coconut, sugar and roasted sesame seeds), drenched in a golden sauce of finger-licking goodness. This sweet delight is accompanied by a large helping of vanilla ice-cream. As though one needed this icing on the cake! But then, who is complaining?

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