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Anitha K. Moosath

The lush greenery and smooth rhythm of the backwaters make the Punnamada Backwater Resort in Alappuzha a true slice of nature.

When one of the Bhima gold jewellery families came to own a one-acre expanse that stretched out to the Punnamada backwaters in Alappuzha, they couldn't resist dreaming of a guesthouse for themselves. And once the work got underway, they struck upon the idea of developing it into a resort and kept acquiring more of the scenic land. "Houseboats had become the mainstream of tourism in Alappuzha. There were just one or two resorts here, unlike Kumarakom that is spangled with star hotels," says L. Kedarnath, director of the Punnamada Backwater Resort.

With a land as picturesque and soothing as the backwaters, the family didn't think twice before taking the plunge. Moreover, they had enough start-up capital. The family has been in the jewellery business for 80 years and runs two jewellery shops, one each in Alappuzha and Kollam. The resort is now into its third year and has almost struck gold in terms of tourist inflow. "Many who go on cruises are left so enchanted that they wish to spend a few more days taking in the lush greenery and smooth rhythm of the backwaters. They find the stay here an extension of the houseboat experience," says Kedarnath.

Done up in traditional Kerala architecture style, the resort is a sprawling 12-acre "aquatic retreat" — 23 cosy cottages with tiled roof, brick-red terracotta flooring, sparse antique furniture, small verandahs and roofless bathing area that allows a bit of the sun or the rain to peek in. There are two private pool villas too facing the waterfront. "We have an Ayurvedic centre also, for there are many who look out for rejuvenation therapy," he says.

The resort has incorporated many traditional features as in the nadumittom (central open courtyard) at the reception. It has also retained a poignant facet of history — a nearly 100-year-old limestone kiln that was in the plot they first bought. "Such kilns have been an integral part of village life in Kuttanad and we decided not to pull it down," says Kedarnath. The basic structure of the kiln has been retained and renovated to house the Choola (kiln) restaurant, a virtual Kuttanadan kitchen that dishes out native konchu (prawn) and karimeen (pearlspot) delicacies.

The open-air section of the restaurant offers an uninterrupted view of 21 km of the backwaters stretch, dotted with purple water hyacinth flowers. There is yet another attribute that makes the resort a true slice of nature. "We have highlighted a vanishing facet of traditional architecture — laterite stone," says Kedarnath. Its burnt orange hue merges well with the native plant varieties around.

A board member of the Alappuzha Tourism Promotion Council, he has been emphasising on eco-friendliness and cleanliness. An incinerator disposes solid waste at the resort. "Waste water is recycled and used for gardening and in flush tanks. This takes care of the piped water shortage in the area," he says.

The resort has a three-bedroom houseboat with coir and bamboo interiors, and chemical toilets, in keeping with Government guidelines. There are also speedboats, pedalling boats and churulan valloms (small country canoes) for the more adventurous to row down all alone. To see Kerala in its entirety one can't be just a tourist, but an inveterate traveller who comes and goes at different points of time, says Kedarnath. And at Punnamada, travellers pour in during Onam, time of the spectacular snake boat races; the resort has an edge over others, being close to the finishing point of the Nehru Trophy Boat Race that beckons scores of tourists every year. Moreover, it owns a 14-acre island between the starting and finishing points of the race; the guests are taken to this vantage point from where they can almost feel the rhythmic pace of the oarsmen.

For the last boat-race season, the response was overwhelming, he says. Around 40 employees from the United Breweries group came down to watch the Nehru Trophy race. "It was part of a management exercise — to show how team spirit works and one man's mistake can make or mar a company's prospects," he says.

"Our guests are mostly North Indians and Europeans. Some of them have become regulars and some regularly send their friends and relatives," he says. And considering the growing stream of visitors, Kedarnath is planning to go in for 20 more cottages.

Managing the resort has been different from running the gold shops. "Winning a loyal clientele is not that easy at a resort, for we have to cater to different tastes. And also ensure that all of them return with the best memories of Kuttanad," he adds. "Except for the backwaters, Alappuzha, as such, has not yet been considered a touristy place. It's important to unravel to the world the varied facets of this `Venice of the East' — the historic importance of the ancient port town, its luring backwaters, flourishing coir industry, life in the villages and ethnic cuisine." To this end, he has been exploring travel shows abroad in cooperation with the Kerala Tourism Department. He hopes that it would not be too long before discerning travellers make a beeline for Alappuzha.

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