The Hindu Business Line : Pot-Puri

The abode of Lord Jagannath, Puri is located on the shores of the Bay of Bengal. The beach at Puri faces south, as the land turns to the east here, offering the tourist a rare opportunity to witness the colourful sunrise as well as sunset from the same spot. One can also bathe and laze on its golden sands for hours.

It's a delight watching hundreds of fishermen on catamarans and sailboats, casting their net for a rich haul of prawn, pomfret and other fish on this long and wide beach. The fishermen's colony is tucked away at the northern end of town, while the Sea Beach Road (Bada Dhanda in local parlance) at the southern end is ideal for a stroll as well as shopping. Orissa handicrafts like miniature stone sculptures, painted wood carvings, Patta paintings on silk and colourful appliqué work are available.

On our first visit to this temple town 20 years ago, we found only a few guesthouses on the beach that were mostly owned by Kolkata-based companies. But now, there are several hotels, restaurants and dhabas to suit any budget. Budget hotels are priced Rs 500-1,000 per day (double occupancy).

Before you venture out...

* Cycle-rickshaws are the common mode of transport within the town. Although rates for locals are pretty reasonable, tourists are often charged 50-100 per cent more. Do check out the normal fare before venturing out. The ride from the Puri railway station can especially prove costly for the uninformed tourist.

* While visiting the Jagannath temple, do take along a guide from the hotel or guesthouse to avoid being swamped by the `pundits'.

* Cycling is one of the best ways to explore the town. One can hire a bicycle at reasonable rates. Those inclined can even attempt cycling to Konark (35 km) along the coastal road.

* It would be a good idea to use the services of the `Nuliyas', who are familiar with the sea currents, before venturing into the sea.

An ideal getaway

The Jagannath temple at Puri is a majestic structure. Built on an elevated platform, its 65-metre tower dominates the town's landscape. The 12th-century monument is redolent of the richness and plasticity of the Kalinga style of architecture. The temple is said to have the largest kitchen in the world, feeding thousands of devotees daily with the `Mahaprasad'.

There are several day-long sightseeing tours available from Puri. These include the Sun temple at Konark, the Lingaraj temple at Bhubaneswar, the Khandagiri-Udayagiri — twin hills with rock-cut caves built for Jain monks around 1st century B.C., Shanti Stupa — the Buddhist peace pagoda at Dhauli, and the Nandan Kanan Biological Park famous for its white tiger.

One can visit Konark in the afternoon for a more detailed study of the sculptures and stay on for the sound-and-light show in the evening.

The chariot-shaped Sun temple at Konark, built in the 13th century A.D., is a striking monument. Seven horses pull the massive chariot fitted with 24 intricately carved wheels, symbolising the hours in a day.

Although the Mukhashala or entrance hall alone remains intact today, the walls of the temple are covered with sculptures of exquisite beauty depicting every aspect of life. Scenes of love and war, trade and court transactions, hunting, elephant trapping, childbirth, amorous dalliances, dancers and mythical figures vie for attention. The erotic carvings are a major attraction among connoisseurs and common visitors alike.

Puri beach

The cluster of 500 temples in and around Bhubaneswar epitomise the Kalinga style of architecture, spread over 2,000 years. The pride of place goes to the 55-metre high Lingaraj temple, at Bhubaneswar, built in the 11th century A.D.

Pipli, 20 km from Bhubaneswar on the Puri road, is a small village famous for colourful appliqué work, ceremonial umbrellas, canopies, cloth bags and so on. The spirited craftspersons fashion them in a way that reflects the region's folk character, vitality and cultural heritage.

Dhauli, a small hill surrounded by paddy fields, 8 km from Bhubaneswar, brings to mind the horrors of the Kalinga War. It was here that Emperor Asoka renounced violence and adopted the path of peace; he later embraced Buddhism. In the early 1970s, the Japan Buddha Sangha and the Kalinga Nippon Buddha Sangha jointly built the Shanti Stupa on the hilltop.

About 14 km from Puri is another crafts village called Raghurajpur, famous for Patta Chitra, an ancient form of painting on silk cloth. The paintings mainly depict mythological themes from the Mahabharata and Ramayana, especially tales of Radha-Krishna and Lord Jagannath.

The Chilika Lake, the country's biggest inland lake that attracts migratory birds from as far away as Siberia during winter, and Gopalpur-on-sea are the other must-visit places.

Puri is ideal for a weeklong holiday; you can spend a couple of days exploring the region and spend the rest relaxing on the beaches. The many temples, ruins and caves attract both pilgrims as well as lovers of archaeology.

Picture by Ashoke Chakrabarty

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