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Nivedita Cotra

It's a fusion of tussar and traditional designs in resplendent colours at Kausheyam in Hyderabad.

Situated near the busy Pujagutta road in Hyderabad, Kausheyam, the house of natural silk fabrics, is a collector's paradise. Making a quiet statement in the world of advertisement overkill, sthe store has its share of devoted patrons.

Kausheyam is a dream come true for its owners, Jaishree and Vinod Kabra. It was their passion for the cause of weavers and natural Indian silk yarn that made them choose handlooms as their line of work. "It has been a long and arduous journey from the days when I was selling sarees from suitcases," Vinod recalls.

The Kabras... Vinod and Jaishree.

Starting as a complete novice, Vinod has learnt the ropes through hard work. A native of Raigarh, Vinod developed a natural affinity towards tussar, the main fabric of his hometown. Aware of how the handloom sector in Chattisgarh, was losing out to powerlooms, Vinod wanted to salvage the falling standards of the tussar fabric.

The tussar yarn is made from the fibre of the antheraea paphia worm, which is found in the wild, while pure silk is obtained from a cultivated one. "Tussar is a beautiful, natural fabric made from wild cocoons. But people are sceptical of its longevity," says Vinod. Weavers often compromise on the quality of the fabric by using less of yarn and more of starch to give it a crisp look. Therefore tussar is considered a poor variety of silk, as it does not last too many washes.

In 1989, Vinod and Jaishree convinced a group of four weavers to work for them. Vinod insisted that they use more yarn and less starch to get a better product from the loom itself. The fabric is pre-washed and at Kausheyam, where tussar can be bought anywhere from Rs 75 per metre to about Rs 500 per metre, they guarantee easy home wash and frequent use of this wild silk.

"This is where the link between the weaver and the customer becomes important, so that the customer's fears and doubts can be addressed directly." It is very important to educate the customer, feels Vinod. The retail showroom in Hyderabad is the first step in this direction.

But why Hyderabad? "Because South India has a very strong tradition of silk, and Hyderabad is a link between the North and South." The couple has diversified into manufacturing, retailing, and research and development.

With about 500 weavers now, the manufacturing unit in Raigarh is experimenting with new weaves from the South. An Uppada or Maheshwari, a Pochampalli or an Ikkat — his weavers are ready to try out different weaves on tussar.

The Kabras have also extended this revival to small self-help groups where people are trained in embroidery specific to each region. Kasuti from Dharwad, and Kantha from Bengal are two such ventures. Breaking through the barriers of traditional designs in tussar, they had to convince the weavers to introduce new and bold designs. Warli art and Madhubani painting on sarees and dupattas in resplendent colours and on a rich fabric could make `wearing' a new experience.

Vinod feels that the bottomline of his business is not profit but sharing. Hence he has given his weavers life insurance policies as diwali gift. "My weavers are not without work at any time of the year," he says.

The weavers, who barely earned Rs 1,500 a month earlier, now make anything from Rs 5,000 to Rs 20,000 a month, depending on their willingness to incorporate new designs and weaves.

Overcoming the weavers' initial resistance and winning their trust was difficult, recalls Vinod. The fact that he did not belong to any NGO or the weaver community worked against him. It was sheer perseverance that helped the couple win the trust of the weavers, who suspected that he was out to exploit them.

But today the situation has vastly improved. In fact, Kausheyam acts as a platform for rural artisans who cannot sell their work on their own. Ruchita, their 16-year-old daughter, wants to help her parents in their endeavour. She aspires to join the National Institute of Fashion Technology and share their vision.

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