The Hindu Business Line : Womenswear by it!

Trotting in trendy trousers, coupled with matching co-ordinates, the urban Indian woman is making quite a few heads turn. Whether it is in BPO-capital Bangalore, `conservative' Chennai, swinging Mumbai or nouveau tech Chandigarh, Pune or Gurgaon... the new-age woman is having a wardrobe makeover.

The traditional sari-clad image is slowly making way for a more suave look, as more women embrace trousers with greater ease and confidence. "Women do find the sari cumbersome and impractical at work. Except for the hospitality industry and public sector banking, the sari is on the way out as work wear," says strategy specialist Harish Bijoor.

But there is more to the trouser tale than meets the eye. This is not a mere shift towards comfort dressing but also reflective of changing times and attitudes. "Trousers look smarter on women and are definitely more in tune with the times. They project a sense of confidence and control," says Preeti Gupta, Category Manager, Allen Solly Womenswear, from the Madura Garments stable.

The drift to formal trousers, observers say, happened through the blue denim. Trousers were among the first western wear to be adopted by women along with jeans. However its widespread use has been as recent as five to six years ago, says Preeti.

The formal, no-fuss look is certainly in at most corporate offices today. "How quickly trousers catch on depends on the acceptability at the workplace and the organisation's culture as such. Which is why in sectors such as advertising, many women wear trousers. And if your job demands interacting with a lot of people, it makes sense to switch to trousers," says Chennai-based designer Chaitanya Rao.

The trouser signifies power dressing, cutting through gender and geographical barriers, guided to a great extent by what tele-serials, advertisements and movies tout. But apart from being a statement of liberation and equality, what actually makes the trouser click? Answers range from the obvious to the hilarious.

Shwetha Gupta, a PR professional, wears trousers four days out of five. She says they are the most comfortable and stylish form of clothing she can wear all-day long.

Minus the hassle of dupattas, trousers are indeed a smart choice, as they don't get caught in the wheels of your chair, chuckles Zubina Huq, a research executive. What's more, they are virtually maintenance-free.

For Shivani Naik, a journalist, trousers are indeed a big boon as she is always on the move. "The biggest advantage is having pockets... You rarely lose your bike key. Also, you can easily hop n' perch on to the bike. Though trousers carry a `just-wear-don't-care' message, they don't make you look as though you are straight out of a circus."

Today's women are increasingly comfortable with emphasising their body structure without being obtrusive. "Trousers highlight the figure in a subtle and chic fashion. They give a straight, clean finish unlike jeans, which have a more `out of college' appeal," says Preeti.

And most women seem very particular about the fit; a baggy or shabby cut is an absolute no-no. "Branded or non-branded, the fit definitely needs to be perfect, otherwise I don't feel good wearing them," says P. Vidya, a software engineer who loves dark coloured trousers with flared bottoms.

However, trousers are certainly not limited to formal styles; options are plenty in terms of colour, fabric, size and cut. Some oft-used fabrics include lycra, cotton, linen and polynosic blends. As for the colours, black, grey, brown and beige are the evergreen favourites.

While boot cut is the most popular style, other choices include straight cut, side zip fit, tapered, wide-legged, stretchable and low-waist trousers. "Of course, the style depends on one's frame and size. While the taper suits both lean and fat people, a slight stretch is a good option for the big-built. Wide-legged trousers suit lean people," says Rao.

Trousers can be matched with formal shirts, knits, suits, jackets or pullovers. And a stole casually wrapped around the neck adds a bit of femininity to the ensemble. Says Shivani, "You can couple one pair of trousers with `n' number of shirts or kurtas and still manage to look different each time."

But what about the affordability factor?

Bijoor analyses: "In the beginning, the consumer is comfortable with her tailored outfit, particularly the trouser. In later months, she gravitates towards the brands in an attempt to stand out in a crowd. In the old days, the lady would baulk at paying Rs 450 for a pair of trousers. Today, office-wear trouser is normally in the range of Rs 950-1,400. And there is not a whimper!"

The market is flooded with domestic brands such as Blackberrys and Scullers, as well as international labels such as Marks and Spencer, and tailored-wear. It is certainly headed for more exciting times.

Tailored trousers are the fastest moving, says Bijoor, adding that the grey market of imports in the narrow alleyways of our cities is equally sought out for work-wear trousers. "This market is slated for a boom," he says.

At Chennai's Pantaloon outlet, for instance, women's trousers contribute to 20-25 per cent of overall sales. "We cater to the changing tastes of customers and advertise aggressively to push for trousers," says Neha Shah, Customer Service Manager. Pantaloon stocks its range of Annabelle, Rig, Honey and F-Trousers. According to Preeti, trousers constitute one-third of the overall business of Allen Solly Womenswear.

"In the beginning, trousers made their entry for the narrower waists. In the future, there will be a trouser for every dimension there is to clothe. In a branded format," emphasises Bijoor.

Picture by Shaju John

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