The Hindu Business Line : A tourist in Tripoli

The Great Libyan Jamahiriya has been shut-in for many decades. But Libya is now opening its doors to the world. A large coastline — about 2,500 km of the Mediterranean — is Libya's pride-possession. Citizens from neighbouring countries are allowed free entry into Libya and their numbers are said to be swelling in the capital Tripoli.

Flying from Chennai to Dubai, with a subsequent stopover at the picturesque island of Malta, our all-new AB700 Emirates flight landed 4 p.m. at Tripoli. Sundown at Tripoli is after 8 p.m.! The all-green national flag flew at full mast everywhere... Green buildings and green army uniforms were commonplace...

Immigration was fast. But my colleague was quite apprehensive, as we did not understand a single word in the visa endorsement. Communication, we realised, posed a major problem... hand and facial gestures were the only way out. Whenever the locals failed to understand our question, they promptly said, "No problem", which, in every respect, meant "Watch out for a basketful... " The cell phones too went blip; fax and telephones lines are poorly connected. The city has only a few cyber cafes.

While Hotel Corinthia is Tripoli's best and the most expensive, Hotel Al-Kabeer, where we stayed, is State-owned. The lobby bustles with tourists, mostly from Europe. Tripoli is emerging as an ideal Mediterranean destination, at absolutely cheaper rates compared to Europe.

The weather is quite pleasant, and intermittent rains are common. Another feature unique to Tripoli is the overhanging dust everywhere. Mercedes and BMWs majestically drove in and out of the city, with a liberal coat of dust.

Car-park attractions

The car park in the adjacent Green Square doubles as an entertainment centre. At sundown, some toddlers fed grass to a black buck, while others rode toy-bikes. Adults went on a pony-cart ride, while some posed for a photograph on a swanky motorbike.

At night, the large car park in front of the hotel was transformed into a football ground. By midnight, one witnessed nearly 23 teams at play in that illuminated car park... proof of their passion for the game!

Get to know the old city

The Tripoli Museum, right across the Green Square and bordering the old city `Al Madina Al Qadima', showcases the nation's rich cultural heritage. Old Libya, also known as Oea (pronounced `O Yeah'), was established during 1000 B.C. Phoenician traders established the region — Tripoli, Sabratha, Oea and Leptis Magna — as trade centres along the western coastline.

The old city market or `Souk Turk' is redolent of a bygone era. Vehicles are not permitted here. Small by-lanes are decked with products from Egypt, Turkey and Italy. A Lucknow chikan lace-work from India caught my eye. Libyans show a keen interest in products from India — or `Al-Hind'. Handicrafts, gold ornaments, textiles, spices and wedding-hampers... all of it finds a place in this market area.

Travellers' cheques are not accepted in Libya. It is best to carry euros and dollar notes.

Swanky new city

The new city is clean and organised. Water tankers flush sand off the streets; palm trees dot the long stretches. Newer landmarks include the 1st September Street that marks the `Fateh' or revolution in 1969, a multi-storeyed office complex called `Datelamad Towers' and the city's tallest mall, `Fateh Towers', built by an Indian construction company.

Young girls in shirts and trousers challenge traditional dress codes. Libyan men can be seen in traditional attire, as well as the latest Italian designer suits. We were warned against photographing any local women or risk being arrested.

The city outskirts has large orchards of olive trees. One can see the remnants of a fortress all along the coastline. Camels walk about lazily, while roadside shops sell honey, dates and groundnut.

Although continental food is available in major Libyan cities, do try the delicious Mediterranean seafood. While alcohol consumption is banned in Libya, restaurants offer `Islamic Beer' (fruit beer). The Lebanese and Libyan Food at Fairooz Restaurant included a host of soft and hard bread, rice and Dhaliya wheat (known locally as Kos Kos). Meal consists of lentil soup, falafal (similar to the South Indian vada) and reshta. A soya-like bean cooked with onion is eaten with a generous dose of olive oil and vinegar. The finale was the `Ful Masreh da mes — Shamiya', a gingelly and jaggery cake, which is believed to be a good digestive.

Local men spend hours at a cappuccino centre, sipping coffee and smoking their favourite flavour of `hookah'. Yes, the hookahs come in three flavours — grape, apple and strawberry.

Korean-made Hyundai Accent and Daewoo cars, and LG air-conditioners are a common sight in Tripoli. Almost every taxi is an Accent GLS. The left-hand drive version is available for Rs 3 lakh. Not just cars, almost all products are heavily subsidised by the State, thanks to the country's huge oil reserves.

Interestingly, while petrol cost only about Rs 6 a litre, a litre of mineral water cost Rs 33. A 25-kg bag of good imported rice — from India, China or Egypt — came for Rs 100, and 50 kg sugar (from Brazil) cost Rs 125.

As we were leaving the hotel, a large portrait of Libyan leader Col Muammar Gaddafi beckoned us... for a photo opportunity. The staff hesitantly allowed us to pose in front it.

At the airport emigration desk, the officer tried to convey an important message: it is imperative for tourists to have their passport stamped by the hotel security personnel every day of their stay. "You could get arrested without that," he stated.

Pictures by the author

Travel tips

* Carry only dollars/euros for exchange into dinar.

* Carry a complete medical kit.

* Pack hats, sunscreen lotion, and full-sleeve light clothing.

* Daily endorsement on the visa by the hotel security staff is a must.

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