• Investment World
• eWorld
• Catalyst
• Mentor
• Life
• Canvas
• Praxis
• Urban Pulse
• Brand Quest

Bijoy Ghosh

Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh beckons tourists with its exquisitely carved temples.

Every temple in this town is an embodiment of love and portrays the basics of erotica. In fact, Khajuraho has become a subject of immense curiosity among foreign and domestic tourists alike, thanks to these sculptures. Try enquiring about this small Madhya Pradesh town, and you will only get `meaningful' glances from friends and relatives.

But for all its tourist attractions, Khajuraho is not really well connected. A four-and-a-half hour journey on what seems like an apology of a bus, takes one from Jhansi (about 160 km away) to Khajuraho. Torn seat covers, paan-stained glass windows and rattling windowpanes make for an uncomfortable journey. But just as you begin to grumble about the rickety ride, the sight of foreign backpackers actually enjoying the ride takes you by surprise.

But the foreign tourists had more surprises in store for us, as they happily feasted on pakoras and masala papads at a local eatery en route, even as domestic tourists were a little hesitant to try them.

Accommodation at Khajuraho is not a problem, as there are several hotels to suit any budget. In fact, bookings for the bus journey to Khajuraho and accommodation can be made at the Madhya Pradesh Tourism Department office at the Jhansi railway station.

Before you venture out, a word of caution for travellers to Khajuraho. There is only one ATM (State Bank of India) in the town... and even that was out of action during our visit. Hence it is advisable to carry sufficient cash!

The Chandelas who ruled from the 9th century till the end of the 13th century made Khajuraho their religious capital. Of the 85 exquisitely decorated temples that originally existed, only 25 are in good shape today. The early rulers of Khajuraho appear to have worshipped Lord Vishnu, while the later-day rulers worshipped Lord Shiva. Temples dedicated to both gods are found here.

The temples at Khajuraho are classified based on their location — West, South and East. If you are visiting Khajuraho on a package deal, chances are that you will be shown the `West temples'. They have the most intricately carved sculptures and are also less damaged. The Vishwanatha temple, the Nandi shrine, the Jagadambi temple, Chitragupta temple, Varaha temple, and the Lakshmana temple are a major draw. Most of these temples are built of sandstone, while some are made of granite.

The Southern group consists of the Dulhadeo temple and the Chatturbhuj temple (the only temple in Khajuraho which does not have erotic sculptures), while the Eastern group comprises the Javari temple and the Parsvanatha temple.

The town bustles with foreigners, and one could see several groups faithfully following their respective guides. They marvel at the architecture, and the exquisite sculptures of multi-armed gods and goddesses seated on different animals with deadly weapons, alluring apsaras and couples in erotic poses that have been chiselled to perfection. In fact, the guides have a tough time ensuring that their clients do not get mixed up with other groups!

Though the temple boasts of beautifully carved structures and every section has a story to tell, most guides, perhaps due to shortage of time, point a small mirror only at the erotic sculptures.

The shopkeepers, and telephone booth operators around the temple precincts try hard to woo tourists... be it flaunting their linguistic skills or stacking their shops with Japanese books and novels! No prize for guessing the magic mantra that the hawkers use to sell their wares, such as books, key chains, and curios made of brass. Yes, it is indeed`kamasutra'. Want to take a break after a tiring trip around temples? Check out the Raneh waterfalls in the Ken Gharial sanctuary. Though one had visited the waterfall in the wrong season, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise as, without the falls, one gets a clear view of the multi-coloured rocks. The rocks are of different types — Granite, Dolerite and Dyke — and hence the varied colours.

Pictures by the author

Article E-Mail :: Comment :: Syndication :: Printer Friendly Page

Stories in this Section
Promise them their childhood

Copyright © 2005, The Hindu Business Line. Republication or redissemination of the contents of this screen are expressly prohibited without the written consent of The Hindu Business Line