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Surabhi Khosla

His Lakme Fashion Week show was inspired by the travels of the comic hero. Fashion designer JJ Valaya says his collections are for the ultimate consumer.

Fashion designer JJ Valaya

His designs are classic yet contemporary. Class goes hand in hand with kitschy patterns, Indian sensibility fuses with international style, and there's sophisticated sensuality.

History recreated

Valaya's Spring Summer 2005 collection comprises two distinct parts. The first, journey of the Great Roman Empire from `dawn to decadence', is already in stores.

"It doesn't talk of the Roman Empire in a clichéd way, referring only to clothes. Fine threadwork, antique moquaish, sensual fabrics like organza and georgettes, and pastel tones pay tribute to the empire's glory. On the other hand, scraggy seams and shredded fabrics balanced with simple embroidery on light gossamer fabric reflect the days of debauchery," says Valaya.

The second part of the collection is based on Mughal `shamianas' and features colour embroidery on white, beige and ivory, and vice versa.

However, it is his collection featured at the recent Lakme India Fashion Week that is both unconventional and stunning. Inspired by Herge, the creator of Tintin comics, the collection is almost like a journey that starts in Peru, moves to the Ottoman Empire and culminates in Tibet.

"It is indicative of a time when there was no concept of a global village, no Internet or satellites, or travel programmes on television. But there was Tintin — a super glossy magazine that took readers on a tour of the world," says Valaya.

The collection starts with black and ivory, moves to antique tones and concludes with lush colours. Though custom-woven silks and lycra are predominant, he likes to work with a mixture of natural and man-made fabrics.

"Natural fabrics breathe easy and have interesting texture and character. But man-made fabrics let you create things that you want to. As for colours, one can't afford to play favourites... but my favourites are white, red and midnight blue. They are very potent colours," he says.

Valaya also uses a lot of Swarovski crystals in his designs; in fact, it is his signature medium for trousseau and bridal-wear collections. "Swarovski wanted a designer who could project the medium effectively in India. They appointed me brand ambassador," he says.

He wants to put Indian fashion on the global scene, and his flagship store in Dubai is a move in that direction. "One can't really compete with the Ralph Laurens, because Indian designers do not have that kind of money. But Dubai is a step forward for me. The Lakme India Fashion Week also attracts a lot of foreign attention," he says enthusiastically.

He gives Indian labels another five years to make it big in the West.

The ultimate customer

"I was all set to study chartered accountancy. Then someone who knew my background in fine arts and oil painting suggested NIFT and I applied. There was some resentment in my family, which thought I was joining a tailoring institute. Back then there was hardly any concept of fashion designing in India," Valaya reminisces. "One must remain fashionable to be in the world of fashion. But all collections are targeted towards the ultimate consumer. A collection, therefore, needs to be perfect in such a way that it can be adapted to the common man."

Ask him about his favourite collection till date and he picks out his current collection. "One has to forever compete with oneself and not with colleagues to attain great heights in this profession. Every collection should be better than the previous one."

Are there any designers he draws inspiration from? "I am my favourite designer," is his immediate reply. "That's probably because I can afford my clothes," he says jokingly, before adding, "Inspiration always comes from things around you and anyone who cannot get inspired is a very poor man indeed."

(Picture by S. Thanthoni)

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