The Hindu Business Line : In Kiwi country

In New Zealand, you are never far away from anything... an exciting shopping trip could be just minutes away from a trek through native bush, or a lazy afternoon on a golden beach.

What can you say about a city that's got a fourth of the country's population, except that it's big!

In the Maori language, Auckland is known as Tamaki Makau Rau, the `maiden with hundred lovers', so named because it was a place desired by all and conquered by many. A brief visit told me why.

Thirty minutes after arriving, I found myself in the elegant, delightful confines of Mollies. The lovechild of talented couple, Frances Wilson and Stephen Fitzgerald, Mollies is a rare treat, showing their passion for opera, design and fine antiques. Each suite is a statement of style; each seductive enough. Off-white walls embellished by classical paintings, classical curtains that look down on centuries-old antiques, and sleek modern furniture that companionably sits side by side in a wonderfully eclectic yet soothing environment.

The `City of Sails' beckoned. And the best way to appreciate it is on the water. With the isthmus separating two harbours — the Waitemata and Manukau — your on-the-water experience could be as thrilling as a white-knuckle race on board a grand prix racing yacht or as laidback as a ferry cruise to a seaside suburb or idyllic islands.

Let's tour the city!

In the evening, we decided to explore the city sights. Taking the `scenic route', we passed Queen Street, the main shopping area, and were briefly dwarfed by the imposing girth of Skycity in the Central Business District.

Ten minutes later, we stood at the Auckland Museum, an impressive granite building squatting on a low hill. Then we ascended to Mount Eden for 360-degree views across both the Pacific and Tasman coasts.

Auckland has perfected the cuisine style called `Pacific Rim', blending Asian and Pacific flavours, besides serving superb seafood. Try New Zealand green-lipped mussels, succulent Clevedon Coast oysters or the local lamb or venison. Exciting dining options exist at the historic inner-city suburbs of Ponsonby, Herne Bay and Parnell, and at waterfront restaurants in the Viaduct Harbour and Mission Bay.

For lots of wine... & sunshine

My next stop on the jaunt was Hawke's Bay. And talk about delights. Food, wine and lifestyle are the local buzzwords that set it apart for praise. Famed as one of New Zealand's three major winemaking regions, Hawke's Bay flaunts its internationally acclaimed wines, fresh local produce and a lively arts scene.

It's al fresco living, thanks to a Mediterranean climate, varied landscapes, about 2,245 sunshine hours a year, and an interesting population mix.

What you can do here depends on your energy levels. You can swim with dolphins or see the world's largest mainland Gannet colony, jet-board, go hot-air ballooning, surf in Mahia Beach, or hunt in the ranges. Or just enjoy the sun and golden sand beaches, or play golf at one of the 20 courses around.

Art deco and heritage predominate the region. Ever since the twin cities of Napier and Hastings were decimated by an earthquake in 1931, and subsequently rebuilt, they've been renowned for their distinct architecture.

Wellington charms

The sun was still low in the eastern sky when I landed in Wellington. A bit like a natural amphitheatre nestled between a harbour and forested hills, Wellington fancies itself as New Zealand's ultimate urban destination.

From Mount Victoria, the view was about as good as it gets. To the left was the downtown area with its high-rise skyline. On the right, the bay stretched in a lazy curve, and behind me it was more of the same. It would have been near perfect but for the wind.

Wellington sports a cosmopolitan flavour with the sophistication of a big city, and is packed with galleries, museums, and shopping and gastronomic delights. An exciting downtown shopping experience is only minutes away from a peaceful walk through native bush or along a golden sand beach.

New Zealand's largest cultural attraction, Te Papa, is a showcase of national treasures, revealing the nation's stories through an exhibition of the past, present and future.

The city is a melting pot of flavours, reflecting Wellington's cultural diversity. There are about 300 cafes and restaurants — more per head than New York. Cohabiting deliciously are Malaysian, Japanese, Chinese, Turkish, Greek and Indian cuisines (`Little India' and `Saffron' serve good Indian food).

Chocolate Fish Café is the favourite hangout of Hollywood stars and film crew. The quirky café commands a fine view of Scorching Bay and the sea, has its private beach, and sports an easy, elegant ambience. Beautiful Scorching Bay is quite the perfect place to take brunch by the sea and watch the inter-island ferries depart, and the dolphins arrive.

Lest I forgot I was in the national capital, my next stop was the beautifully refurbished Parliament Buildings. The complex comprises three architecturally distinctive buildings: the Edwardian neo-classical Parliament House, the Victorian Gothic Parliamentary Library and the unique 1970s-style Beehive Building.

Wellington has an instinct for arts, culture and heritage. From high drama to downtown funk, classical to Cuban, Elgar to electronica, music suffuses the atmosphere.

From Bulgari to bohemian, the retail experience is equally exciting. Kirkcaldie & Stains is the flagship, featuring the best names in international high-street retailing. From the Old Bank building to the top of Willis Street, it's a fresh boutique experience. Boutiques also fill the gaps in little Woodward Street, Victoria Street and Cuba Mall.

We experienced nature's proximity through `Seal Coast Safari', which involved an intrepid journey to Wellington's wild South Coast, home to a New Zealand Fur Seal colony, and sporting beautiful views of Cook Strait.

Braving a typhoon-type wind, we had tea and cookies at the seal colony, and stared out at the leaning lighthouse, a local symbol, that looked like being blown over any moment. It was just another day in a city blessed with everything a city could desire!

Fact file

How to get there: Auckland is the national air gateway. The best connections from India are via Singapore and Hong Kong.

Where to stay: Accommodation ranges from deluxe to standard and budget hotels.

What to eat: From traditional New Zealand food to a bewildering range of seafood, there's a meal for everyone.

Picture by N. Balaji

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