The Hindu Business Line : Looking beyond silk...

They became household names with their prized silk sarees. Today, many of Chennai's silk houses have diversified into modern wear, in line with changing preferences.

RmKV Silks' `Cinderella pavadai'

The last time I looked at it, I didn't want to wear it. It lay in a corner, old and reminding me more than ever of my grandma. So what if mom wore it occasionally... I wouldn't wear it. Thus rests the case of the silk saree in most homes in Chennai.

Imagine my surprise when, in a busy shopping area and amidst milling crowds, I suddenly heard somebody inviting me into a shop with a "Vaarungal Vaarungal" (`Welcome, welcome') in chaste Tamil. Turning around to find a dwarapalaka in royal attire at the majestic store's entrance, I accepted his invitation, and more surprises unfolded. A royal durbar was in action, with an astrologer consoling the agitated maharaja, even as the anxious maharani and her attendants looked on, all in royal finery dating back in time.

This regal setting was part of a promotional campaign for Pothys Palace, a textile store in Chennai's T. Nagar.

Shoppers at Pothys Palace

Yes, the city's silk saree market is witnessing several innovative changes. Fifty years ago, a typical Tamil wedding would have among its many rituals a trip to Kancheepuram for its famed pattu (silk). Often, the family would boast of a patron weaver who would meticulously design and put together the bride's trousseau. But things changed after stores like Nalli and Kumaran Silks set up shop in Chennai. People did not have to look further than T. Nagar for silk sarees. One of the busiest shopping areas of the city, people throng here at all hours of the day, and throughout the week.

Today, T. Nagar has grown much beyond Nalli and Kumaran Silks... from Pothys, RmKV, The Chennai Silks, Jayachandran Textiles and Naidu Hall, to Saravana Stores... the area is choc-a-bloc with textile stores. Competition, coupled with changing preferences, has forced these textile houses to adopt modern marketing practices. Theme-based and seasonal advertisement campaigns, colourful hoardings, slick media ads and celebrity endorsements are the order of the day. Interestingly, a large segment of the advertising is targeted at today's youth.

And at the multi-storeyed shops, jostling with the timeless silk sarees and other traditional garments are a range of modern and western attire. There are separate sections for men, women and kids wear. Even a store steeped in tradition like Nalli is no exception to this trend.

With two shops within walking distance in T. Nagar, Nalli now targets shoppers across all age groups. The 77-year-old Nalli Chinnasami Chetty Store continues to attract the who's-who of the city for its shimmering weave. You can spot mamis (middle-aged women) sitting amidst drapes of silk any time of the day here.

The second store, the seven-storeyed Nalli Silk Sarees brands itself as `Nalli 100' — located as it is on 100, Usman Road — with promises of 100 per cent pure silk.

Kumaran Silks, like Nalli, has a loyal clientele and branches in other metros. Its new range of `wearable silks' is priced between Rs 1,000 and Rs 2,000. Apart from a lifestyle store exclusively for modern wear, it has also diversified into home furnishing and dress material.

At Pothys Palace the collection in ven pattu (white silk) and leaf-green has found many patrons. "With jacquard boxes in looms, we can make the most intricate designs on silk. And the colour palette has seen a major change. Earlier, only dark colours such as maroon, magenta and green were used for silk sarees. But today over 1,000 colours are used. Pastel shades have made a great impact," says S. Ramesh, the store's managing partner.

Established first in Tirunelveli, the store finds a loyal following among people hailing from interior Tamil Nadu. The original founders are said to have worked for the royal courts in the distant past. In fact, even today their designs depict the valour of a bygone era in silk and gold zari. Pothys has now forayed into designer sarees, and Indian and western wear.

RmKV Silks could come as a pleasant surprise to youngsters, with counters offering fashion accessories and cosmetics that range from Shahnaz Husain products to lesser known ones. Also from Tirunelveli, the owners have been in the business for over 80 years. The shop holds the Guinness record for the longest saree (704 metres) ever made. Their thematic sarees are an exquisite blend of traditional and modern designs.

Their promotional campaigns are targeted at today's smart and suave bride. "The design has a base in tradition, but is woven keeping in mind the modern bride without changing the basic characteristic of the saree," says its CEO, K. Vishwanathan.

The designs and motifs draw inspiration from ancient architecture, sculptures and paintings of South India, especially Tamil Nadu. The Kalpavriksha and Hansadamayanti collections have traditional designs but in shades that appeal to the younger generation. "The bride takes a part of her heritage along with her, on the saree," says Vishwanathan.

Though youngsters today buy only a few sarees, they are not willing to compromise on quality, he says. "Earlier one would buy about 5-6 silk sarees, each priced about Rs 2,000-3,000. But now, youngsters are willing to buy just one saree at Rs 7,000 or above."

The theme-based collections are a big hit with NRIs. Their `Cinderella Paavadai' (long skirts, in dark green with zari work, depicting the Cinderella fairytale) catches the fancy of many young girls.

Pictures by K.V. Srinivasan

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