The Hindu Business Line : Madrid moments

Madrid evokes myriad images — the robustness of Flamenco dance, pages from Cervantes' Don Quixote, Picasso's anti-war painting Guernica, Ernest Hemingway's descriptions of bull fights in Death in the Afternoon... But Madrid packs much, much more.

The Spanish capital unfolds its languorous beauty, layer by layer. Traversing through the wide avenues of Gran Via and Plaza de Espana, one finds magnificent facades of centuries-old buildings lying somnolent under the bright summer sun. Madrid residents apparently stay clear of the summer heat, leaving the place entirely to tourists. But the temperature hovering at 34-35 degree Celsius is not at all uncomfortable since it's dry weather.

Finding accommodation near Puerta del Sol, walking distance from the fabulous museum circle, was a lucky stroke. Online reservation had made our task even simpler despite the summer rush.

Madrid brims with an infectious joie de vivre as if to make up for the oppressive Franco era not so long ago. It's easy to get caught up in its mood of happy abandon.

Wealth of museums

Madrid is home to some of the greatest artworks of the modern world. Spain nurtured many world-famous artists like El Greco, Picasso and Velazquez. Its churches are treasure houses of medieval artefacts.

The city has as many as 250 museums, big and small. The most impressive of them all is the Prado Museum with nearly 7,000 paintings. Spain's pride, Goya, Velazquez and El Greco have separate sections devoted to their works.

Drink in the beauty of Titian's famous Venus, still-life works by the Flemish School of painters, Goya's Clothed Maja and Naked Maja, which once scandalised society, and many other breathtaking works; it would perhaps take more than a week to view them all.

A stone's throw away across the tree-lined avenue is the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum. Originally a private collection of the Thyssen-Bornemisza family of Switzerland, today it is worth more than a billion dollars. Hall after hall is filled with the works of some of the most revered European and American artists.

Also nearby is the futuristic building of the Reina Safina, the national museum of modern art, that houses Picasso's Guernica painted during the Spanish Civil War. Entire blocks are devoted to Dali, Picasso (including his sculptures) and other contemporary artists.

Palacio Real, the royal palace, dates back to around 1734. Some of the nearly 2,000 rooms are still used by Spain's royal family for official work. Only the reception area and State apartments are open to the public. Even these are many in number and their sheer opulence is mind-boggling. Blue room, porcelain room, a dining table with gold cutlery which can seat 130, chandeliers made of rock crystal and silver... it's an endless display of luxury. At the royal pharmacy, perfectly moulded porcelain jars reach right up to the ceiling!

Street smart

The Madrid mood is best savoured on the bustling streets and the cafes dotting them. People sit around leisurely, sipping glasses of Sangria, a famous local punch containing red wine, and munching on Tapas (bite-sized snacks), gambas (deep fried shrimps), anchovy in vinegar or chicken bits.

Dinner at 10 p.m. is quite the norm in Spain.

Pub crawling or tapeo-crawling is a popular past-time among the locals who prefer a big meal between 2 and 3 p.m. Paella, a khichdi of saffron-flavoured rice, shellfish, sausage, chicken and spices is cooked and served in a `paellera'. One portion is hearty enough for two people.

For authentic Gazpacho, clear cold soup from the Valencia region, Madrid is the place, as also for the tortilla and Spanish omelette with potatoes. The city is the best place to shop for olive oil and coffee at reasonable prices.

Hemingway was caught up in Spain's magic as well. He was a regular at Chicote Café on Gran Via, the majestic avenue hugged by shops, theatres and cafes, often declaring to his circle of admirers: "Spain is a country for living and not for dying." His other favourite haunt was the Sobrino de Botin restaurant established in 1725 (Goya was once a dishwash boy here) off Plaza Mayor. Today, thousands of Americans make a near-pilgrimage visit to Chicote and Botin.

Day trips from Madrid

Segovia, 91 km away, personifies the glorious days of the Old Castile. It still retains the medieval aura. The massive aqueduct built by the Romans is well preserved even after 2,000 years. It rises 95 ft high with 118 arches built using mortar-less granite.

A narrow, hilly path leads to the 12th-century Alcazar (Moorish term for royal abode) shaped like a boat. Hence the sobriquet `floating castle'. The Moors from Morocco reigned over Spain for more than 500 years. The cathedral in Segovia was the last Gothic cathedral built in Spain. Antiques and rich stained glass greet you at every step.

About 30 km from Madrid is Spain's old capital Toledo, El Greco's beloved town. As we drove over the red earth of the arid Don Quixote country, Toledo came into view more than 6 km ahead, like a painting from a child's fairytale.

Toledo is still important as the religious headquarter of this Catholic country. Its more than 250-year-old cathedral is ranked one of the greatest Gothic structures in the world.

Toledo was once a confluence of Jewish, Arab and Christian populations and their various influences are evident. The famed tiles of Spain are not exactly Spanish but Moorish in origin. Damascene is another Moorish art — inlaying gold or silver threads against a black steel backdrop. Toledo swords are reminiscent of medieval swashbuckling days and make for good mementos. Both Toledo and Segovia are on UNESCO's heritage list.

Looking down from the aircraft window as the plane soared away from Madrid, you can't help thinking... once is not enough.

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