The Hindu Business Line : Hot, dusky, delectable... chocolate!

After some frenzied pummeling, the spa therapist slathers my body with a — hold your breath! — gooey chocolate paste! The medley of cocoa, aroma oils, volcanic ash and rose water — despite its discomfiting stickiness — is an olfactory treat.

And the massage room is soon redolent with a divine chocolaty aroma. Continuing to chocolate-coat my limbs, the therapist intones, "Madam, these wraps are the latest in spa treatment. Very relaxing."

Relaxing indeed. And as I happily capitulate to the inventiveness of this upscale Delhi spa, I can't help but marvel at chocolate's multifarious uses. Magic for kids, manna for connoisseurs, aphrodisiac for therapists, indispensable for chefs... Chocolate indeed cuts a swathe across ages, nationalities and professions. But a chocolate wrap? Well, that's novel for sure!

The word `chocolate' comes from the Aztec `xocolati', which means `bitter water'.

The provenance of chocolate, however, can be traced to America during the Middle Ages when the Mayans — and later the Aztecs — ground the chicory-hued beans of the theobrome (Greek `Theo' for God and `brome' for food) cacao tree into a bitter beverage prized for its mystical and medicinal attributes. Later, Cortez — the conqueror of the Aztecs — brought the beans to Europe in the 16th century, where they were used to treat a slew of ailments — anaemia, fever, gout, haemorrhoids, poor digestion, depression and heart diseases.

Today, of course, chocolate or `the food of the gods' is a highly processed blend of chocolate liquor, cocoa butter, cocoa powder, sugar, emulsifiers and milk. Pretty much like wine, chocolate too is a complex product, exhibiting characteristics such as acidity and an earthy flavour.

Like grape varieties, there are varieties of cocoa beans too. Primarily, three types of cocoa beans are available in the market today — Criollo, Forastero and Trinitarios.

Criollo trees, abundant in Central and South America, are considered the most superior. They contribute about 10 per cent of the world's chocolate produce, providing a low yield of beans and a nutty flavour.

Forastero trees, which dot the plains of Africa, Asia and West Indies, contribute 80 per cent of the world's cocoa production. Their yields are higher than Criollo trees; they grow faster and are more durable, with a more pronounced taste.

Trinitarios are primarily cultivated in Central and South America, Indonesia and Sri Lanka and are a cross between Criollo and Forastero. They contribute 10 to 15 per cent of the world's production and offer fine cocoa beans with a high fat content.

However, the quality of edible chocolate is determined by the quality of raw ingredients and the manufacturing process. The process begins with high-quality beans being fermented, dried, roasted, and crushed. The time and care given to each step determines the quality of the final product. "Good chocolate," according to Mumbai-based chocolatier Zeba Meetha Kohli, "is akin to good wine. It has a long-lasting flavour and its taste lingers on the palate. It also breaks cleanly and melts rapidly and evenly in the mouth."

Currently, chocolate manufacturers use up 40 per cent of the world's almonds, 20 per cent of the cashews and eight per cent of global sugar to keep their production going. Interestingly the world's first `chocolate box' was introduced by Richard Cadbury in 1868 when he decorated a candy box with a painting of his young, cherubic daughter holding a kitten in her arms!

According to industry estimates, the Swiss consume more chocolate per capita than any other nation on earth. And why not? For researchers reinforce that chocolate bestows numerous health benefits if consumed in moderation.

Chocolate consumption apparently triggers the release of endorphins, the feel-good hormones in the brain. It also acts as a natural analgesic with some ingredients in it mimicking the effects of marijuana, leading to a high. Teeming with flavonoids — the same group of phytochemicals found in tea and red wine — chocolate contains potent antioxidants, some plant steroids, B vitamins, magnesium and copper.

According to nutritionist Priti Kolah of Jeevanshri Food Research Centre, Jaipur, "Chocolate contains phenyl ethylamine or the `love chemical'. This chemical releases dopamine in the pleasure centres of the brain, which enhances a feeling of well-being. Packed with serotonin (a relaxant), chocolate is also an anti-depressant if eaten in moderation."

However, cautions Priti, consuming too much chocolate may actually lead to depression!

Addiction to chocolates or being a `chocaholic' point out experts, is indicative of nutritional deficiencies, especially that of chromium and magnesium.

"The moment nutritional deficiencies are eliminated by supplementing the diet with protein, for instance, cravings disappear," adds Priti.

Interestingly, a recent Italian study shows that chocolate also helps plummet blood sugar level. However, according to the National Institute for Food and Nutritional Research, milk chocolate ought to be avoided as it floods the blood stream with antioxidants.

Another study by the Children's Hospital and Research Center states that chocolate's flavonoids help ease diarrhoea symptoms by preventing fluid loss in the intestines.

Chocolate is heart-friendly too. Explains cardiologist Dr Naresh Kapoor, a Delhi-based private practitioner, "Cocoa (chocolate sans fat) has an aspirin-like effect which helps prevent blood clots — a cause of heart attacks."

In a study conducted by the University of California, people who consumed a cocoa beverage showed a decrease in blood clotting for six hours.

Cocoa also helps relax and dilate blood vessels to ease the flow of blood. Dark chocolate helps control high blood pressure, says the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition.

So what are you waiting for? Gobble up that luscious chocolate bar occasionally. And do yourself a world of good!

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