The Hindu Business Line : Bullish rampage

When an untamed bull leaps out of the narrow gate, he brings along fame and doom. The roaring crowd aims for the sharpened horns and oiled haunches, and also tries to grab a piece of the fleeting luck. Welcome to an arena built on myth and death, where a tilt of the horn or the reach of the rump could mark the decisive moment in the life of a one-day matador.

For thousands of villagers in Tamil Nadu, Mattupongal — the last day of the Pongal festivities — is very special. A day they look forward to all through the year as they toil in the fields.

Alanganallur jallikkattu, Tamil Nadu Tourism's showpiece event, is special in many ways. While all other villages notify the event in advance and invite bull-tamers from every village, Alanganallur in Madurai district is open to all. The event is held on the third day of the Thai month (mid-January). Bulls and bull-tamers from across the State assemble here for the big clash.

The village's bull-taming skills are so legendary that the organisers have barred the locals from participating in the event. The village boasts magnificent beasts that have gored many to death. Untamed and experienced, these bulls know how to tackle the maddening crowd. A leap, a swirl and an unexpected turn of the horns... and they are untouched.

Though it is not known for how long the village has been associated with this sport, old-timers insist that it is a form of worship. "During the time of the zamindars, it is believed that an oracle ordered human sacrifice for the well-being of the village. Jallikkattu originated around that time. Though no one was sacrificed, there were bloody deaths in front of the Kaliamman Temple," says Malairaj Daivashikhan, a local priest.

The ritualistic ambience supports the theory. Every bull is taken to the temple before the event and sprinkled with kumkumam (vermillion). The first to face the participants is always the sacred bull of the Muniyandisami Temple.

Bulls owned by various other temples and families follow this animal. Regular participants know which one to look out for and onlookers know which one would give them the thrill.

However, the flip side to the event is that many participants and onlookers die in Alanganallur and in surrounding villages like Palamed and Anaiyur. This year, nine lives were lost; an equal number died last year. E

very year, screeching ambulances shuttle between the venue and the Rajaji Hospital in Madurai. But nobody cares, except perhaps the bereaved families. The ancient sport of valour still draws hordes of people. Bulls that dodged the tamers rampage on the road followed by their keepers trying to rein them in.

The real winners, at the end of the day, are the owners of the beasts. The market has turned more bullish for them!

Pictures by the author