The Hindu Business Line : <I>Bite into Aamchi</I> fare

Well, if batata poha and shrikhand were all that you associated with Maharashtrian food then you are pitiably wrong. This cuisine covers a wide and delectable range — from extremely mild to very spicy dishes. Although gaining in popularity within India, it however still remains a mystery to most westerners and many Indians too.

Food from this region can be broadly divided into two sections: coastal and interior. Seafood and coconut are essential ingredients in the first category. Brinjals, colocasia (arbi) coconut and a range of pulses/lentils feature prominently in the vegetarian menu.

While the staple food is still eaten in many Maharashtrian households even today, what remains largely unexplored is the mouth-watering wealth of vegetarian snacks, which are slowly and steadily making inroads into Mumbai's cosmopolitan lifestyle.

One popular eatery serving this fare is Panshikar Aahar at Girgaon in South Mumbai.

Set in a predominantly Maharashtrian neighbourhood, it is a favourite with Maharashtrians and Gujaratis alike. The milling crowd during breakfast and lunchtime speaks for the place.

One can savour authentic Maharashtrian Brahmin snacks, cooked as per the specifications of Jitendra Panshikar, the proprietor. From the quintessential vada-pav one can move on to Poha or Potato Pohe (Rs 13) made from rice flakes, onions, potatoes, green peas and spices. It is usually served with tea — a combination that's typically on offer whenever guests drop in at a Maharashtrian household.

During arranged marriages in Maharashtra, kanda-pohay or onion-pohay is the dish over which the families of the boy and girl are most likely to meet. In fact, this is so commonplace that an arranged marriage itself has come to be referred colloquially as `kanda-pohay'.

Upama or Sanja (Rs 12) is similar to the South Indian upama, but is essentially porridge made of coarse wheat flour perked up with spices. Most Mumbaikars are familiar with the famed misal-pav, a spicy mix of lentils, topped with batata-bhaji, poha, sabudana khichadi and chivda; sometimes it is also eaten with curd. But this localised, oily fare is supposedly no match for the original.

"At Panshikar misal was never served with pav (leavened bread)... and our misal is extremely low on oil (the tenet of Maharashtrian cooking is that the cooking medium must not be visible) and served in various traditional styles."

One can dig into misal pav (Rs 20) and special dahi misal (Rs 25). Logically follows the usal pav (Rs 15), which is a classic snack made out of green peas, onion, green chillies, and sometimes garlic, and eaten with pav.

It would be criminal to miss out on the thalipeeth (Rs 18) — crunchy pancakes served with chutney and fresh butter, or the kothimbir wadis (Rs 15) — nuggets that combine the flavour of coriander and spices with gram flour.

For those on religious fasts, Panshikar has developed a specialised Farali menu. The sabudana khichadi (Rs 14), shengdana (peanut) usal (Rs 13) and puris made from the Rajgira flour which is known to be gentle on the digestive system. These are sure to infuse some zest into the austere fasting period. The khamang kakadi (Rs 12) — cucumber stuffed with peanut powder and seasoning — is extremely popular even among those who are not on a fast. "You don't need a reason to consume the Farali food here as it is very tasty and light on the stomach," says Shah, whose office is located nearby.

The fare is definitely light on the stomach and on the pocket as well. One can have a nutritious, tasty meal for less than Rs 25. "I eat here almost every day as the place is hygienic and serves affordable, tasty snacks," says Saurabh, a student.

If you feel a wee bit special then dunk into the kharwas, a sweet dish prepared by steaming cow's milk and flavouring it with saffron and cardamom. Shrikhand or sweetened curd flavoured with cardamom and saffron is popular across cuisines and, when combined with mangoes, the amrakhand is a sweet lover's delight.

You might want to wash your meal down with piyush, which combines the flavour of nutmeg (jaifal) with lassi and sugar. From March onwards the mango panhe, famous for its cooling properties, is in raging demand.

The Panshikar Mithai Kendra next door is ideal for fresh modaks — bud-shaped rice casing stuffed with lumps of freshly grated coconut cooked with jaggery. The modak is placed on lightly greased banana leaves and steamed.

Though the service is quick and efficient, you may have trouble spotting a parking space for your vehicle. But nothing stops the Mumbaikar from getting her taste of Maharashtra — aamchi maati (our land).

Panshikar Aahar, Govardhandas Building, J.S.S. Road, Girgaon, Mumbai- 400004 Tel: (022)23861211

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