The Hindu Business Line : Mangrove-sea tango

Also boasting extensive mangrove forests, the name Sunderban comes from Sundari (a species of mangrove tree, Heritiera fomes) and ban (forest). While one part of the Sunderban is in India the rest is in Bangladesh.

Sunderban is criss-crossed by an intricate maze of rivers, tributaries, estuaries, creeks and channels. About 70 per cent of the area is covered by saline brackish water.

Tiger Reserve

The mangroves are home to the tiger - PICTURE BY THE AUTHOR

Sunderban is the only mangrove forest in the world that is home to the tiger. In 1973, the Indian Government notified the Sunderban Tiger Reserve under the Wildlife (Protection) Act 1972 and brought it under its Project Tiger Scheme. The area was elevated to the status of a Wildlife Sanctuary in 1977.

A core area of 1,330 sq km was accorded the status of National Park in 1984. In 1987, UNESCO recognised the park as a World Heritage Site.

Despite the presence of the tigers, many of them man-eaters, villagers venture into the forests to collect honey or cut wood, and sometimes get attacked by the tigers.

Ferries, a common transport in this region - PICTURE BY THE AUTHOR

The villagers worship Bonbibi (forest deity) and Dakshin Ray (believed to be a demon in the form of a tiger) to protect themselves from the tigers. Tigers generally attack from the rear, so the villagers wear bright-coloured facemasks on the back of their head in an attempt to fool the tiger.

During two peak periods in February and May, daily tides obliterate territorial markings by the tigers. This is when tigers are often found swimming across rivers and creeks, crossing up to 8-km wide rivers.

During the paddy ripening season, tigers enter several kilometres inside the rice fields and prey on the cattle there.

The Mangrove Biosphere

In order to coordinate conservation and research efforts in the Sunderban region, the Government notified it as the Sunderban Biosphere Reserve. More than 30 lakh people live in the reserve. It received UNESCO recognition under the Man and Biosphere (MAB) programme.

Unique Habitat

The water in the numerous rivers, creeks and canals rises and falls according to the tides. Salty water from the sea rushes in and out — twice every day — making the region one of the most difficult terrains to live in. Most animals and plants here, both land and aquatic, have developed unique adaptations to survive. For instance, the tiger here is a strong swimmer and has learnt to catch fish.

Throughout the mangrove forests, at the water's edge, you will find the unique mudskipper, a fish that walks on land and even climbs trees. Its fins have evolved into two small arm-like flippers, which permit it to move on land. Blood-red fiddler crabs are also found in this region.

Besides the tiger, there are deer, wild boar, monkeys, jungle cats and fishing cats. There are several aquatic mammals — the Ganges dolphin, Indo-pacific hump-backed dolphin, Irrawaddy dolphin and the finless porpoise.

The river terrapin, Olive Ridley turtles, estuarine crocodile, monitor lizard, water monitor and Indian python are some of the reptiles present here.

The region's bird life includes the Asian open-bill stork, black-necked stork, greater adjutant stork, white ibis, swamp francolin, white-collared kingfisher, black-capped kingfisher and brown-winged kingfisher; several migratory birds come from far-off places.

You can spot marsh birds — egrets, purple heron and green-backed heron; birds of prey — osprey, Pallas's fish eagle, white-bellied sea-eagle, grey-headed fishing eagle, peregrine falcon, Oriental Hobby, northern eagle owl and brown fish owl.

Getting there

There are two routes with Kolkata as the starting point.

The South West route takes you to Namkhana (105 km via Diamond Harbour and Kakdwip). If interested, you could take a boat from any of these places or from Gangadharpur and visit Sagar Island, Lothian Island and surrounding areas.

The South East route is more popular. You drive through 100 km of picturesque wetlands, agricultural fields, fish hatcheries and rural Bengal to reach Sonakhali. Here you can take a 3-hour launch ride to Sajnekhali Tourist Lodge

Those more adventurous can drive to Basanti (across the river from Sonakhali) and onwards to Gadkhali (11 km). You can next take a ferry across the Bidya river to Gosaba. A cycle-rickshaw will take you to Pakhiralaya in about half-an-hour. Sajnekhali is just across the river from Pakhiralaya.

Accommodation

The only place to stay in the forest area is the Sajnekhali Tourist Lodge (also known as Sunder Chital Tourist Lodge) maintained by the West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation. It is rustic and simple and without electricity. A generator provides just enough power to run the fans and lights after dark.

There is a watchtower, a crocodile pond and a turtle pond in the vicinity. There is also a hatchery for Olive Ridley turtles. The turtle eggs are collected from the wild and hatched under human supervision. A Mangrove Interpretation Centre here screens films on wildlife.

But for sheer luxury, you can stay at the Sunderban Tiger Camp across the river from Sajnekhali. It has air-conditioned cottages, 4-bed huts and 4-bed Swiss tents. Other options include the Sunderban Jungle Camp at Bali Island, also opposite Sajnekhali, and some private hotels and resorts in the Pakhiralaya area.

There are organised cruises to the Sunderban where one can spend the nights on board the launch, which has cabins, toilets, running water and arrangement for meals. One can even hire a private launch and plan one's own itinerary.

Best time

September to April. Foreigners wishing to visit Sunderban need a special permit issued by the Department of Tourism, Government of West Bengal in Kolkata.

Places to see

Sajnekhali Bird Sanctuary at the confluence of Matla and Gumdi rivers.

Sudhanyakhali where there is a manmade Mangrove Park and a watchtower.

Bhagabatpur Crocodile Project, which has a hatchery and rearing centre for estuarine crocodiles.

Halliday Island Wildlife Sanctuary and Lothian Island Wildlife Sanctuary south of the Sunderban.

The 400-year-old temple at Netidhopani.

Piyali, 72 km from Kolkata, is a gateway to the Sunderban and a beautiful resting place.