The Hindu Business Line : Prayers among the icy peaks

The annual Amarnath Yatra takes place during the month of Shravan (July and August); the dates vary each year according to weather conditions and to time with Purnima (Raksha Bandhan). This year's yatra began on June 11 and will close on August 9.

According to local lore, a Muslim shepherd named Buta Malik was given a sack of coal by a sadhu. On reaching home he discovered that the sack, in fact, contained gold. Overjoyed and overcome, he rushed back to thank the sadhu.

But at the very spot where they had met he discovered a cave, and eventually this became a place of pilgrimage for all believers.

Getting there

There are two routes — one is via Pahalgam and the other via Baltal. From Pahalgam, Amarnath is 46 km away. Transport is available up to Chandanwari, 16 km from Pahalgam. The first night can be spent at Pahalgam or Chandanwari.

The trek starts at Chandanwari, and one has to traverse 30 km to reach the cave. It takes two days with night halts at Sheshnag (Wawjan) and Panchtarni. At Sheshnag one can glimpse the Sheshnag lake and the glaciers beyond. The name Sheshnag comes from the seven peaks that resemble the mythical snake. The next 12 km goes through the Mohagunas pass and down to Panchtarni. After a night halt, the cave is only 6 km away. If one sets out early in the morning from Panchtarni, then it is possible to find a place ahead in the queue, have an early darshan of the linga and return to Panchtarni by noon. One can expect only a fleeting darshan as there is a tremendous rush of devotees. There are bhajans, priests, pujas and aartis. If one resumes the journey immediately from Panchtarni, the night can be spent at Sheshnag.

The second route proceeds from Sonamarg, 85 km away on the Srinagar-Leh route. Baltal base camp is 15 km from Sonamarg. Here a free langar (community kitchen) facility is available It takes just a day to reach the cave from this base camp. At Domail, 2 km away, the route becomes steep and one has to be extra careful while trekking. At Sangam top the Baltal route and the Pahalgam route meet. Transport is available up to Baltal and from here ponies, porters are available at Government approved rates. Assistance is available at the tourist office.

The helipad at Baltal.

In the past few years, private sector airlines have joined the efforts of the State-owned Pawan Hans Helicopter Corporation to provide flights to pilgrims. While the helicopter travel is not cheap, it offers the opportunity to complete the darshan and return within a few hours. However, the helicopters operate only when the weather is good.

The rush peaks during the auspicious Poornima day.

A base camp viewed from a helicopter.

The trek to the Amarnath cave takes one to a height of around 14,500 ft. The surrounding valleys and snow capped mountains afford breathtaking views. Devotees undertake the arduous annual trek to the cave for a glimpse of the naturally formed ice lingam.

CLIMATE

The climatic conditions are very unpredictable with the possibility of rain or snowfall any time during the yatra. There could also be abrupt changes in temperature with a sunny day giving way to snowfall or heavy rain in no time at all. The temperature may fall up to -5 degree Celsius.

(Pictures by the author)