The Hindu Business Line : Revving into Himalayan terrain

If travel is about people, transport, the journey and the destination, it is about change too. And it couldn't get more drastic than a bike ride in the Himalayas. For those participating in Royal Enfield's Himalayan Odyssey, the ride was a completely overwhelming experience. The annual 14-day biking trip begins from New Delhi and goes via Chandigarh and Manali to reach Leh, and back.

This year, there were 52 participants from all walks of life between ages 19 and 57with bikes ranging from the brand new model to one 1960s' model. For the two girls in the group, the trip would be a combination of challenges: of mastering a new bike — a Bullet; of riding under extreme road and weather conditions; and a trip test of our stamina.

On the morning of the flag-off at Delhi, I was introduced to my bike — the Thunderbird. It was a 250-km ride on NH 1 to Chandigarh. The six-lane highway was a breeze, but what was not so comfortable was the heat; this changed soon. Rain pelted down and gales tore at us; we rode on through slush and road diversions, as trees had fallen on the road due to high-velocity winds.

We reached Chandigarh at dusk, completely exhilarated by the challenge en route. The next day saw restless bikers warring with the one-way traffic on winding hilly roads leading to Manali. After a 350-km journey, over the roar of the Beas, Royal Enfield's mechanics tuned my bike to increase its pick-up, which had drastically reduced after the ride through the ghat roads.

On a tough terrain

After the hill-station, everything changed — roads, landscape, population density and the air. The latter was the most talked about — rarefied air causes high-altitude sickness, and can even induce a coma. Its effect on the bikers began to show.

After clearing traffic on the Rohtang Jot Pass (50 km from Manali), we rode on to tackle Baralacha La — an undeniably tough ascent. The rubble and steep climbs over U-turns were something the bikers had not experienced before, and some of us even fell off our bikes. It was evening when we reached our camp at Debring.

We had to take a detour to reach the camp — through dust-filled plains. The bikes kicked up dust, and we had to rely only on the tyre marks for direction. The stability of the Thunderbird came to my rescue as the terrain attempted to drag me down.

I remembered the advice of another biker: it's best to let the bike take its own route on dust, and gently direct the bike in the right direction.

The next day's journey would take us on rough and waterlogged roads, through a monochromatic brown landscape to Leh. It was Day 6 and exhaustion had set in. Appetites had dropped.

The bikes were showing signs of stress too. In rarefied atmosphere, bikes work differently and it takes a good listener to know when to accelerate. On we went through treacherous roads, in biting cold, sheer cliffs looming above and the ominous rattle of bridges resounding in our ears.

Finally we descended on the Indus Valley, and its beauty caught us unawares. It was suddenly sunny, bright and the trees and flowers seemed to welcome us into Ladakh.

After the scenic ride, which lifted our spirits, Leh swam into view. Our jarred bones recuperated over an evening's rest.

A few bikers succumbed to altitude sickness and excused themselves from the trip, but most others had adjusted well.

At Leh

Visitors to Leh have plenty of things to do. A visit to the abandoned, decrepit palace that stands guard on a hill overlooking the town can be combined with shopping and an evening at Shanti Stupa, where various aspects of the Buddha's life are etched. The Stupa overlooks Leh and offers a stunning view at sunset; there is tangible peace in the fresh mountain air.

We left early the next day for Khardung La, the world's highest motorable pass, 50 km from Leh. It was a smooth ride up, with perfect roads. The rush of adrenalin on reaching 18,380 ft is enormous. After all, this was what we had come for.

For the 50-odd bikers, it was a moment of pride and for the older riders — the culmination of a life's dream. The next day we visited Pangong Tso, a lake at 14,000 ft and a six hours from Leh. This lake, like its cousin Chandra Tal (17,000 ft), is guarded by mountains and called Rainbow Lake due to its multi-hued appearance. Another tourist spot is the Magnetic Hill, also near Leh.

The ride back

The return journey promised to be more taxing — to be done in five days' time. However, everyone was confident and as our bodies had adjusted to the altitude, spirits were up. As we returned through the same roads, the change was noticeable. Where there was traffic previously, the roads stretched without a sign of life for miles.

Burnished by the mountain air, we rode our machines through the wide, empty plains and the small villages dotting the Himalayas, through Manali and then Chandigarh.

The last stretch was the six-lane NH1 to Delhi. Riding a cruiser on such roads feels as comfortable as sitting on a beanbag at home, and the road just comes rolling towards you. You shift into fifth gear and the bike's vibration drops into the smooth hum of a happy engine, drawing a grin from the rider.

Favourite songs pop into your head and the pace of life slows. You smile as you watch a bird flap its wings and soar into the blue sky. Never mind that the sky is actually grey (due to smog) and the weary bird is actually swaying in the dust storm. We had returned, touched and moulded by the mountains, to civilisation.

Whisper the word Himalayas, close your eyes and revisit the stolid brown cliffs, gorgeously abundant valleys and snow-capped peaks glistening in the horizon. As you walk toward your bike, standing against a backdrop of the breathtaking mountains, a thrill races up your spine. You remind yourself that it's no dream.

Grinning, you glance at the 50-odd bikers revving their engines. Standing atop Khardung La, that's when I fell in love with my bike. And life. The Himalayas will do that to the urban cynic and road junkie. Ride safe.

Pictures by the author

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