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Peace reigns supreme...

Anjana Chandramouly

... at the famed stupas of Sanchi.


Peace and love: The Great Stupa at Sanchi

Every History textbook in India has at least a page dedicated to this monument... a domed structure with beautiful gateways. No, we are not talking about the Taj Mahal. Further down towards Central India is Sanchi — one of ancient India's greatest monuments. Sanchi's tryst with history dates back to the pre-Christian era. The Great Stupa at Sanchi is considered one of the oldest stone monuments in India.

Situated about 46 km from Bhopal, one can catch a glimpse of the stupa atop a small hill even from a distance as you drive towards it. The hill has a thick green carpet over it. As the car stops outside the wooden gates that resemble the monument's stone fence, you can't help being bowled over by the vision in front of you.

Past the heavy security checks and closer up to the monument, you find it difficult to utter a single word. Peace reigns supreme here... You soon realise that you are not the only one enjoying the enveloping tranquillity. The few tourists around are also awestruck by the four majestic and beautifully embellished gateways. You notice that their chatter has dropped to hushed tones.


Tourists at the complex.

Enter one of the gateways and you are welcomed by the sight of a Buddha statue. Many of the Buddha statues are disfigured, and in some others one can spot cement plaster on closer observation!

Two winding staircases take you from one tier of the circular structure to another. From the top one can glimpse a panoramic view of the valley below and the surrounding hills.


Love seats amidst tranquil surroundings.

The plaque at the site lays down the historical and religious importance of this World Heritage site. Emperor Asoka laid the foundation for this Buddhist establishment in the third century B.C., when he built a stupa and erected a monolithic pillar here. According to the plaque, Asoka chose this spot as he felt that the quietude of the hill (Vedisagiri) was ideally suited for the Buddhist monastic life. Succeeding rulers expanded the structure and added to its glory.

However, with the passage of time, the monuments at Sanchi went into disrepair. Significant among these are the stone columns that remind you of the Parthenon Temple in Athens, Greece.

The beauty of the monument complex, that was ravaged over the years by amateur archaeologists and treasure hunters, has been restored by the Archaeological Survey of India.

However, the road to Sanchi from Bhopal (especially via Diwanganj) badly needs a new tar-top. The bumpy ride takes a dramatic turn for the better as soon as you enter the town. Alternatively, tourists can travel comfortably along the 78-km stretch through Raisen, if they don't mind the additional 30-plus-km.

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