The Hindu Business Line : The land of a thousand myths

We landed on Christmas and were among the last to present our passports. The friendly quarantine inspector asked us: "Did you look out of the window, and did you see Santa?" The beagle dog thumped its tail in approval. It was the introduction of things to come; the warm and friendly Kiwi touch... with a quaint sense of humour.

Myth 2: You must drive around New Zealand to see New Zealand.

Now, there are two ways to see New Zealand: Hire a camper van and head off on the long-winding country roads. Or do it on a timetable, by coach and the world-famous TranzScenic Train. You can do all your bookings on the Net.

Myth 3: Auckland is all about fashionable cafes and groovy nightlife.

Granted, there's nothing like spending your entire life in Parnel! But do take a ferry to the Waiheke Islands and go on a wine tour. Or spend a day at the beach and do your own thing. Keep one day for the museum, and reserve one night for a visit to Minus 5 — a Vodka Bar maintained at this temperature. It's chilly stuff, and you are allowed only 20 minutes in here.

Myth 4: Backpacking can be backbreaking.

Backpacking is big fun if you travel light. We started off by boarding the Newmans coach headed for Rotorua. After checking into the Hot Springs Hostel, we visited `Te Puia', and watched the sulphur springs erupting regularly with fierce intensity, and also got an indoctrination into Maori legends. Famished, we headed for the police station. Yes, the Pig and Whistle, once a police station, is now a traditional pub. Next morning we spent a pleasant day at the Rotorua Museum, and the adjacent Blue Baths, where you can slip into the curative heated waters.

Myth 5: It can't get any colder than this.

This was supposed to be spring! At Lake Taupo, an icy cold wind blew in our faces, and kept us confined to our room during our one-night stay. The highlights: Our backpacker abode (Silver Fern) was incredibly chic — (hence the term `flashpacking'). The combination of Hells Pizza and local rum was divine.

Myth 6: Wellington's a long way from Lake Taupo.

Next morning found us again on a coach, bound for New Zealand's capital, Wellington. The embroidered mosaic of green pastures dotted with white sheep and cows kept us mesmerised right through and our driver had to remind us we had reached the Youth Hostels Association (YHA). A light shower, and we strolled over to Cuba Street for an early dinner. Next day saw us at Te Papa (Our Place) Museum for a whirlpool extravaganza of history, geography, Maori culture, science and design, which kept us entranced till late-afternoon. After treating ourselves to salmon and white wine, it was time to catch the tram. This is a `vertical' ride, meaning you ascend a scenic hill gradually, meandering through beautiful tulips and roses along the way.

Myth 7: Who travels by train these days?

Everyone who loves the romance of travel. Even if it means a four-hour ride on the Inter Islander ferry to get across to Picton, from where the TranzCoastal departs. It travels along the Pacific Ocean coastline, on a honeymoon journey along the sea coast with whales and dolphins for company. This visual opera kept us spellbound, and it was with a sense of regret that we noticed car dealer signs and warehouse signboards. We had finally reached Christchurch!

Myth 8: You've done one train journey, you've done them all.

A new day, a new train! The TranzAlpine chugs along the Canterbury plains, winding its way through gorges and rivers and then leaves you to marvel at a panoramic view of the Southern Alps. Stretching out for miles and miles is pure paradise. As we remained in this happy trance, it was announced that the train had reached Greymouth.

Myth 9: You got to be crazy to go to Greymouth.

Greymouth is grey. Compared to the hustle and bustle of its gold rush days, it's a pale shadow of its former glory. First stop — Smelting House Café, then, onwards to the YHA, followed by a self-discovery tour. The Art Gallery, the Jade Museum, the History House, and finally, a guided tour of the world-famous Monteiths Brewery, a Kiwi icon.

Myth 10: Greymouth to Christchurch is going to be `boring'.

Finally it was time to catch the TranzAlpine again. Wasn't this going to be a repeat of the previous day's scenery? As we emerged from a dark tunnel heading towards Arthurs Pass Station, the scenery wasn't green anymore. It was white — snow white. We all ran around like children, trying to catch snowflakes and make snowballs.

Myth 11: There's not much to do in Christchurch.

Christchurch is famous for its parks, its lakes and its trams, which are straight out of the 1920s. Christchurch has a crazy nightlife too; but make sure you first have your dinner. We liked The Loaded Hog for its loud, cheerful ambience. Not to miss: The new Christchurch Art Gallery with its sculptured glass art façade.

Myth 12: There's no Scotland in New Zealand.

Five hours from Christchurch lies Dunedin, New Zealand's Scotland. This is where backpacking ends, and quaint bed-and-breakfast places beckon. Morning saw us at the Octagon Town Square, all set for a fun double-decker ride. The most unforgettable stopover was at the Oliveston House, where we experienced first hand, how the rich lived in the good old days. We then drove up to the corner of Baldwin Street, the world's steepest road (in the Guinness Book of Records). But the biggest attraction in Dunedin is the Cadburys chocolate factory guided tour, which ends in a grand finale: A chocolaty waterfall!

Myth 14: There's no shopping in New Zealand.

Maori music, Maori carvings and wood craft, aromatic soaps, Zealand jade, pahua jewellery, glass craft, paintings, wine stoppers, vintage New Zealand wine, and New Zealand wool are all tempting buys.

Fast facts

Quarantine: Food items and wood items are not allowed, except in certain special cases. And no dirty soil on your shoes, please! Declare everything to the quarantine inspector — remember the friendly beagle dogs are sniffing around for banned items all the time.

YHA membership: Get a YHA membership from whichever city you are based in or from New Delhi (www.yhaindia.org) . All museum entries and coach tickets have a YHA concession. Each traveller must have his/her own YHA Card.

Driving around: Camper vans give you far more freedom, and make sense for families travelling with kids. Vegetarians too will love this option.

Currency exchange: You can walk into any bank on working days and exchange your US dollars. On weekends, private dealers are open till late. Try to get New Zealand dollars directly from moneychangers in India.

Overseas medical insurance: Take out an overseas medical policy for your visit. Make sure you carry all the medicines you want from India (but declare them at the airport).

Phone cards: You can get these cards at any grocery shop. All of them work, and are real value for money.