The Hindu Business Line : Raindrops for company

As one leaves the dusty plains of Guwahati and takes the winding road up to Shillong, the air seems to get clearer and the clouds amidst the rolling hills melt your tensions away. And if there is rain, it's monsoon magic all the way.

In Shillong, water in some form is never far away — whether as moisture-laden monsoon clouds or as waterfalls hurtling from unseen sources into deep gorges or as water bodies.

The little hamlets that dot the route from Guwahati are all named after the Khasi word for water `um' — Umtru, Umsning, Umiam.

After crossing Nongpoh, near Umsning, the land on either side features terraced cultivation. It is a horticulturist's delight with an exotic array of cultivation — strawberries, pineapple, passion fruit, roses and now the occasional crop of tea. A stopover at the North-East's first Centre of Excellence for Rose at Dewlieh proves hugely educational. Did you know, for instance, that the luscious strawberry is a member of the rose family? I didn't. Another fact I picked up was that honeybees make for a sweet harvest. Having a beehive near an acre of strawberry fields is believed to increase the yield by as much as 20 per cent due to increased pollination.

Perhaps the most scenic vista on the way to Shillong is Umiam Lake, popularly known as Barapani. As the road goes round a blind curve, the unfolding sights take your breath away. The manmade lake is an angler's paradise. The Japanese had predicted a lifespan of 400 years for Barapani. Today, heavy silting is a cause for concern.

Westernised milieu

Scenic Barapani evokes images of the English Lake District.

Popularly termed `Scotland of the East', Western influence is predominant in Shillong. It boasts a rolling 18-hole golf course, which is known as the Gleneagle of the East. Among the country's oldest golf courses, it was developed in 1889 by the British.

The landscape is also dotted by pretty churches. Among the oldest of them is the Cathedral Church of Mary close to Don Bosco Square.

A recent added attraction at Shillong is the Don Bosco Museum at Mawlai. It has 17 galleries showcasing the lifestyle, characteristics and cultural aspects of the seven states of the North East. The sculptures depicting the subtleties and differences among the region's various ethnic groups are a treat for the eye. It also houses an extensive collection of nearly 10,000 books on the North East region. Spread over seven floors, the top floor of the museum offers a bird's-eye view of Shillong. The hexagonal building is topped by a flame-like structure, to illustrate the coexistence of cultures.

Cave hopping in Cherrapunjee

No visit to Shillong would be complete without a trip to Cherrapunjee, 56 km away. The main attractions here are the caves and numerous waterfalls. It was once reputed to be the place that received the maximum rainfall in the world, but today that fact is debatable. Local government reports in fact classify Cherrapunjee as a wet desert due to its sparse vegetation. Brian Kharpran of the Meghalaya Adventurers Association says, "The biggest threat in Cherrapunjee is the degradation of the environment. There is a reduction in forest cover and the result is that rainwater cannot be retained. The second major threat is the quarrying of limestone over one of India's longest caves — the 7.1 km long Krem Mawmluh."

Speleology or cave exploration is one of the highlights of Cherrapunjee. The Mawsmai Cave is lit up to allow easy passage for tourists through its slippery rocks and shallow water. The place has an eerie feel but once inside one delights in the phantasmagoric formations. The real treat of stalactites and stalagmites, however, is at another cave in Mawsynram.

Hide'n'seek waterfalls

But catching a glimpse of Cherrapunjee's famed waterfalls calls for a lot of luck... and benevolent clouds. We were fortunate to view both the Nohsngthiang Falls and the Kynrem Falls. Within minutes, fast-moving clouds envelop the surroundings in a white mist.

In Cherrapunjee one can buy pure orange honey, a speciality of this region. The weekly local market is the best place to look for similar local delights.

From the rock formation known as the Ka Khoh Ramhah, or the Giant's Basket, one can view the flat plains of Bangladesh on a clear day. Legend has it that a giant, tired after a hard day's work, left his basket on the rock. Interestingly the rock formation is conical, closely resembling the typical Khasi cane basket used to carry loads.

A visit to Meghalaya is truly a walk in the clouds, a wisp of the imagination, and a very real raindrop on your cheek.

Fact file

Shillong is an all-seasons destination.

Getting there: One can take a direct flight to Guwahati — the gateway to the North East. From Guwahati Airport, you can hire a cab for the 2-3 hour drive to Shillong. From Shillong, Cherrapunjee is a daytrip by cab. One can also hire a cab for a daytrip to Dewlieh horticultural farm, stopping en route at Barapani's Orchid Lake Resort for refreshments.

Best time: October-November and February-April. May-July feature monsoon showers. The best season for caving is November-March.