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Awesome artworks, naturally

Chitra Ramaswamy

Nerja Caves in Spain is a gallery like no other, with limestone creations crafted down the ages.


Balmy year-round: Balcony of Europe

It was on a cold January day in 1959 when five young Spanish schoolboys decided to investigate the enormous flocks of bats that flew out every evening to a mine in the beautiful village of Nerja (pronounced Nerkha). The youngsters headed for the "mine" which was actually nothing more than a shaft. Little did they realise they were on the brink of a scintillating and important discovery!

A sudden gust of damp air blew across their faces as they entered the cavern. Curious and thirsty for adventure, they flashed their torch in the direction of the draught. They spotted a narrow crevice but couldn't get in. They returned the following day with tools and broke the stalactite barrier. One by one, the five-some jumped down into a huge gallery. They were taken aback when they saw skeletons and ceramic bowls lying there. Within no time, their family, friends and the entire neighbourhood were agog with the rare findings.

Three months later, the discovery of the Cave of Wonders, later renamed Nerja Caves, was authenticated after a visit to the cavern by a doctor and a photographer. The caves opened to visitors in 1960 and was declared a Historic Artistic Monument in June 1961. Today, it is one of Spain's most sought-after tourist destinations, attracting over 500,000 people a year! A few yards from the cave entrance is a white monument, sculpted to honour the five young discoverers of this important site, surrounded by a little garden.

The caves were inaugurated with a festival of classical ballet organised by the cave administrators. Many world-famous personalities arrived to watch the stunning event held amidst the spectacular settings. The festival was an instant hit, prompting the authorities to make it an annual event.


The Cataclysm Chamber at Nerja Caves.

In July, every year, the caves reverberate to the sound of music, with performances by national and international artistes. The 800-seat Hall of the Waterfall is equipped with the necessary sound acoustics and lights for the occasion. The Paris Opera, Royal Opera Theatre of Copenhagen, The Strasbourg Opera and several other famous opera houses have been a part of the Cave Festival since its inception. Tenor Alfredo Kraus, with the brilliant accompaniment of the Malaga Symphony Orchestra, mesmerised the audiences at the 1996 festival.

A tour of the caves leaves us speechless with wonder, as we struggle to find the right adjectives to describe the awesome spectacle. As we gape in utter disbelief at the world's longest stalactite measuring 63 m, wondering how mere water drops could give rise to such a grand formation, the guide led us a few yards further and proudly pointed to the Cataclysm Hall, which has an imposing height of 32 metres: "You know, about 1,000 billion drops of water have formed this!" The fallen rocks in the area are suggestive of an earthquake, long ago in the region.

Underground waters which perforated the limestone-mountains through the ages, have given rise to these fantastic structures. Shaped by the amalgam of stalagmite and stalactite, Nerja Caves boast of the world's widest column, finding pride of place in the Guinness Book of World Records. The cave chambers open to the public include the Elephant's Tusk, the Hall of Bethlehem, and the Ghosts.

The many tourist services and facilities in the area add to visitors' viewing pleasure. Besides souvenir shops and a museum outside the cavern, amenities include a covered parking area, restaurants, cafeteria, gardens, public conveniences and picnic spots with lush gardens.

Nerja lies on the easternmost tip of the Costa del Sol, about 50 km from Malaga. Besides the caves, Nerja itself is an enchanting village-city that captivates with its rich and well-preserved Andalucian architecture. Set at the foothills of the Almijara Mountains, which descend into 9 km of warm, azure beaches, including the internationally renowned Burriana Beach, Nerja has scenic beauty. Its nerve centre, the Balcon de Europa or Balcony of Europe, built in 1497, unfolds a picturesque view perched above the sea and has served as a romantic setting for several artists and writers, who were inspired by the beauty of its environs.

With mild weather the year round, Nerja is an anytime tourist destination.

(Picture courtesy: Aldeasa)

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