The Hindu Business Line : Copper heights

A pair of sturdy legs and a backpack stuffed with essentials is what a trekker needs. Yes, in addition he needs the will to roam in the wilderness, away from the urban hubbub. One such area, which has been less trekked, is Zanskar (the House of Copper) in Ladakh, Jammu and Kashmir. The approach from the Manali-Leh road though slightly tough, offers a picturesque vista. One can drive up to Thogar or Sarchu on Manali-Leh road.

The Yunan Tso valley around Thogar and Sarchu is so wide that the area is called Thogar-Sarchu plain. The area is dotted by a few small, conical tents of local nomads, the Changpas. They rear sheep and have the finest Tibetan mastiffs as guard dogs. The trek from here to Tangze, in Lunek valley, is tough. It requires a firm foothold, determination and courage to cross the turbulent rivers and steep mountains. The return trip from Thogar to Kurgiakh Chu valley takes about 15 days; therefore, one should be well equipped with tent, high-altitude gear, canned food, emergency medicines and so on.

The trek initially involves crossing the knee-deep waters of Kenlung nala. The ice-cold water makes you feel as if your legs have been sliced off. Rub a film of massage oil to lessen the `sting' of ice-cold water. The first halt is at Guismett, an almost level walk at 14,000 ft from Kenlung nala. Barren multicoloured rocks of the mountains and a deep blue sky welcome you here. Between Guismett and the next halt, Kamirup (15,500 ft), eight turbulent nalas (streams) have to be forded. These snow-fed streams become treacherous as the day progresses. The bright sun melts the snow and the ankle-deep stream of the morning becomes trekker's nightmare by 4 p.m.

Large snow rats, marmots whistle at you and vanish in their burrows if you try to say hello to them. Yellow beaked crows and frightening, huge spiders with red bellies are the additional fauna at Kamirup.

The journey becomes tough beyond Kamirup. The first hurdle is the swift flowing Kamirup River. To ford an icy river, cutting across the current in neck-deep water, needs some guts. Once again the route follows the Lingti River and about 15 km ahead, at an altitude of 16,200 ft, is the camping ground of Chumik Marpo. The lush green meadow of Chumik Marpo beckons the trekker to settle there permanently. From here it is snow and ice all along, till one reaches Zanskar.

Between the meadow and the Zanskar valley is the lofty mountain range with a Pass, Phise La (19,200 ft). The climb to the pass is steep; one has to make one's own track through the melting snow and slush. Luckily there are a few sheep trails that zigzag up the hill and guide you to the pass.

The altitude makes breathing difficult. And just as one started feeling that it would be impossible to take another step further, the guide announced that `we have made it'. The view from the pass is breathtaking, exquisite and beyond words to describe. All signs of fatigue vanish as one glimpses the deep blue sky above and the thick clouds floating below. A feeling of divinity takes over.

The descent to Zingchen is tougher, as one keeps slipping in the slush. After reaching the base the trek passes along a very narrow valley, at places only four feet wide. One has to constantly jump from one side to the other as the stream meanders through the jagged, rocky projections on the narrow valley sides.

Next day a comfortable 9-km walk down the slope takes you to Tangze village (13,200 ft) situated on the banks of Tangze nala, near its confluence with Lunek River. After a walk of nearly 62 km, the first habitation comprising a few houses, smiling, beautiful faces, and some greenery comes into view.

Further down the Lunek and Kurgiakh Chu rivers the valley offers beautiful sights; a trip to Phutkal Gompha across Niri River is highly recommended. The Gompha is situated on a vertical rocky massif. A swaying rope bridge takes you across the river.

The roar of mighty Lunek, Kurgiakh Chu and Niri rivers sound like the hurrahs of victorious soldiers returning home. The trek is full of adventures, but the exquisite vistas make one forget the risks and the vagaries of the weather.