The Hindu Business Line : Arabian platter

Starlit dinners, sea, sand, and not a cloud in sight. In Oman, contemporary life meets timeless desert. Once a thriving, strategically located port of the Arabian Peninsula, Muscat today ranks among the world's best-planned and cleanest cities, yet remains a cradle of culture tucked away in the folds of tradition. This stark contrast in lifestyles makes the country fascinating.

Abdullah Bin Abbas Bin Ahmed, President - Muscat Municipality and Municipal Council, says he admires the city for being the centre of national traditions and heritage. Ali Mohamed Za'abnoot, Director General of Information, Ministry of Information, feels Oman's location is a big plus point. The country has an eye on the desert and the sea, both of which facilitated trade right from early days, and also created a rich heritage.

Genuine local flavour comes through in Muttarah, a busy commercial centre famous for its corniche, girdle shaped promenade, bay and harbour with romantic old dhows and visiting cruise ships and naval vessels, and the smells of the sea. Lining the promenade are offices, shops, cafes, trading houses and souks, notably the Muttarah Souk with some shops the size of a small lounge, others no bigger than a walk-in closet.

I meandered through the seemingly endless corridors of little shops, waded through stalls of vegetables and dates, and saw the day's catch on display in the busy fish souk. Incense smell was everywhere. The same atmosphere pervades Souq Al Juma, popularly known as Friday Market.

Bargain and enjoy yourself. Munching on ripe dates and sipping mildly spiced herbal tea in a tiny spice-laden souk, I discovered why Arabian shopping could be delightful, exciting and tiring at the same time. The temptations are inescapable, with antiques, historical artefacts, objets d'art, electronics, textiles, spices, jewellery, clocks, watches, tribal rugs and khanjars (curved ceremonial daggers) lining shelves. The souks have a typical `market-day' atmosphere, with noise, robust bargaining and lots of head shaking. The other end of the spectrum is Al Qurm, with elegant shopping malls.

The citizens of Oman are proud, family-oriented, colourful people, conscious of their status and physical appearance. Men in traditional white dishdasha (dress) and women in abaya and veil can be seen in a variety of modes, from driving flashy cars to working on computers. Dress codes are important and the disdashas are almost always spotlessly clean. One never sees a crumpled or dirty disdasha. While most are white, some coloured ones are also seen. Men and women both seem to glide along in their graceful robes.

To judge a people, observe their food and eating habits, an old saying has it. Well, try this for size. Domestic meals are wholesome fare including famous regional dishes, notably Thareed, Harees, and Mohammar. Typical ingredients used include varieties of meat, fish, rice and vegetables, washed down with light tea. Rounding off the meal are sweet preparations like Aseeda or Halwa.

Tradition also shows itself in other ways. Parks, statues and heritage artefacts dot the highways, and dominating the impressive cityscape of concrete and parks are pale white structures. The seaside palace of Sultan Qaboos bin Said is a magnificent building with huge multi-coloured columns featuring different architectural styles.

The Al Bustan Palace Hotel is another beautiful beachfront property set in 100 acres of landscaped gardens; the hotel boasts a stunning lobby, fancy dining areas that serve the choicest caviar and prawns, and luxurious rooms overlooking the gardens and seafront.

The sea has contributed generously to Oman's beauty, and the country's intrinsic relationship with the sea is visible at several places. At the Yacht Centre of the Marine Science and Fisheries Centre, one sees both the practical and leisure sides of marine life. The small fishing village of Qantab provides a great view of the sea and a close look into the unique lifestyle of its fishermen.

Culture and tradition is also on view at the Bait Al Zubair Museum that serves as a valuable link between Oman's past, present and future; its collection of antiques include Omani weaponry, jewellery, costumes, domestic utensils, as well as recreated urban and rural environments.

The Natural History Museum is a window to Oman's flora and fauna wealth. The Whale Hall here displays the skeleton of a huge sperm whale and smaller species, alongside audio-video presentations.

Modern and progressive it may be, but Oman remains distinctively and proudly Arab in outlook and attitude. The city mirrors several different images, some journeying back to its founding 900 years ago. Images of old shipyards that built the famous dhows that sailed the seas in the early days. And of battle-scarred old structures, notably two Portuguese forts, Jelali and Merani, that flank the rocky cove around which the city is built.

It's Arabia, served on a platter.

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