The Hindu Business Line : Evergreen auto city

Universally known as an auto centre, you'd think it's a concrete and steel city with high-rise buildings that spoil the view. But quite the opposite holds true. Stuttgart shows no shyness in proclaiming its favourite colour to be green, and backs its claim with forests and parks that hem the city in, giving it a green wash.

Clinging harmoniously to the narrow valley of the Nesenbach — the `Nesen Creek' which flows underground into the Neckar River — the city's growth has flooded the charming valley with a sea of houses interwoven by streets and green-land reserves, woods, parks and `keep fit' paths, complete with gymnasium equipment.

Greenery has always been `in', with the smart, nature-loving Stuttgarters exploiting five horticulture shows held in the last 50 years to expand and develop their green belt. The fruit of such efforts? The great `Green U', which unites the city's palace gardens (the SchloBgarten), the Rosenstein Park, the Leilifriedscher Garden, the Wartberg and the Hohenpark Killesberg to form one continuous, 8-km long park. They don't come much greener than that.

Symbolising the region's historical legacy are five palaces, former residences of kings and dukes, with the Neues SchloB (new palace) today being used by the state government for official receptions, and the Altes SchloB (old castle) now housing the Wurttemberg State Museum. Progressive architects and builders have left their mark on the city's skyscape, setting architectural highlights with structures such as the Central Railway Station, the new State Art Gallery, the celebrated TV Tower (Stuttgart's symbol), the Liederhalle Cultural and Congress Centre, several modern bridges, and whole sections of the city.

Perhaps the most artistic of all is the world-renowned Weissenhof Estate. The New State Art Gallery is a work of art in itself and is part of the city's `cultural mile', which also includes State Theatres, and several famous libraries including the Music Library.

While the 217-metre high TV Tower is a landmark of modern Stuttgart, the late Gothic Church Stiftskirche stands for the older part of the city, and is flanked by the city's oldest building, the Fruchtkesten, once a wine and grain storehouse, now housing musical instruments.

Home to auto majors

Business is big time here, with Daimler, Bosch, Porsche, and Kuhler-Behr being some prominent local companies. It was here that Gottlieb Daimler and Carl Benz combined their mechanical genius to create the famed Mercedes Daimler Benz. Other features of this progressive city are world-famous innovation centres such as the `German Research Centre for Aviation & Space Travel', nine Fraunhofer, and the Max Planck Institute, and two renowned universities. Publishing is another major local industry with a great tradition since the 18th century, and it is an international centre for Bible publication, with some million-and-a-half copies in 50 languages published annually.

The ideas of Daimler and Benz have been enshrined in the famous Mercedes Benz Museum, which takes one right into the heart of motoring history. From the world's first cars to modern wonders, the museum features a wide range enhanced by interactive screens, audio systems, and subtle decoratives. Equally interesting and important in motoring history is the Porche Museum, which catalogues the history of the famous car, displaying prototypes and rare models.

Gastronomical indulgence

`Food and drink keep the body and soul together', a Swabian saying has it. The city lives up to this slogan, offering a great opportunity for gastronomical indulgence.

Summer in Stuttgart has something `Mediterranean' about it, with restaurants putting tables out on the footpaths. Things get really gemutlich, however, when the wines come around, especially the Viertele (quarter litre). Swabia's gastronomical heart also beats in gemutlich pubs, in old-style taverns, and cosy `Besenwirtschaften'. There are also many earthy beer taverns, flirty pubs with live bands, and small bars.

Swabian celebrations come in many forms, from the staid to the downright boisterous variety.

Autumn sees the city hosting the Cannstatter Volksfest — the world's second largest beer festival after Munich's Oktoberfest — a colourful, eventful, cheerfully noisy extravaganza of fun and frolic, galvanised by thousands of litres of beer and some five million visitors enjoying the fiesta.

Shoppers' stop

In the early 19th century, King Friedrich I of Wurttemberg had the city moat converted into a splendid avenue, which today is Stuttgart's top shopping mall, the Konigstrasse, which has the city's most upscale shops, boutiques and restaurants, with live theatres, musicians, jugglers, and pavement artists. For the most exclusive and elegant shops stocking designer labels, visit the Karlspassage in the Breuninger Building, and the Calwer Passage inspired by the famous shopping gallery in Milan.

There are plenty of handy shops and department stores in Schulstrasse and Marktplatz. A totally different shopping experience awaits one in the Markthalle, among Germany's most beautiful markets with a distinct atmosphere of wafting scents around flowers, fruit, fresh bread, fish, and assorted spices.

Stuttgart's large factories churn out some of Germany's classiest products.

But it also has expansive green areas, and this intermix is evident in the busy streets and broad rail tracks which are crossed by filigree bridges.

There are industrial museums and there are charming old cafes. The spirit of Swabia and the progression of modern Germany exist alongside in this city of automobiles and gardens.

Fact file

Getting there: Stuttgart is a couple of hours by train from Frankfurt. Lufthansa operates direct flights from Frankfurt to several Indian cities.

Accommodation: City accommodation comprises diverse class hotels, with tariffs ranging from Euro 50-200.

Food: All types of food, including Indian and vegetarian, are available. A meal for two at a standard eatery costs Euro 20-30.

Getting around: There are taxis and city buses for local commuting. Several places of interest are walking distance from one another.

Best visit: April through October.

Tips: Indian nationals require a visa to enter Germany.

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