The Hindu Business Line : <I>Chal</I> Arunachal

The fact is Arunachal is all of that. Add to that its very vastness and mind-boggling terrain. Among its looming mountains are deep valleys, and in its verdant meadows miniscule villages, its inhabitants comfortably embedded in the ancient traditions of their ancestors, in harmony with their environment...

The mesmerising combination of ruggedness and beauty begins the moment we climb up from Bhalukpong. We stop every now and then to take in a vivid spray of orchids amidst the forest greenery to a dramatic view of treeless hills, their serrated edges dark in an azure sky, ravines through which ribbon silver streams, their waters glinting in the sunlight.

It's almost noon when we reach Bomdilla. A fine mist veils the town. We find our way through it to the market to gulp bowlfuls of thick thupka laced with churpi — chunks of dried yak's milk. A quick peek at the Gontse Gaden Rabgyeling monastery and we are off to Dirang, 38 km away.

Along a river that goes by the same name, Dirang is a small township, a queer blend of old and new structures, with its bustling bazaar, where quaint old-time shops stand cheek by jowl with those peddling modern-day accoutrements.

And there's plenty to see here. There's Dirang Dzong — the 500-year-old fortress that retains much of its charm in its archaic edifices; and way up beyond the yak farm at Nyukadong there's the steep hike to Tom Hill where the wind whooshes by, whirling the prayer flags into a merry dance.

A bumpy half-hour ride by the rushing waters of the Tsomkha Zamen leads us to the incredibly picturesque Sangti Valley, sacrosanct to bird watchers, for it is here that the endangered black-necked cranes fly in from Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau each winter.

Arunachal is rightly called the land of the rising sun. At 4 a.m. the sky begins to lighten and we are off to Tawang through Sela Pass with its mantle of snow, its cluster of lakes mirroring in their placid waters the imposing mountains all around.

Beyond the pass the road winds through hillsides entrenched with bunkers — mute remnants of the Sino-Indian conflict, to Jaswantgarh that celebrates the spirit of a war hero. Almost a legend today, Jaswant Singh's exploits are narrated to us as we tuck into a hot dosa at the army canteen just by the highway.

It is early evening when we reach Tawang. Framed by the snow-mountains, the hamlet stands upon rolling-meadows. It is the monastery here that defines the town. The Galden Namgyal Lhatse, as it's also known, is one of the foremost lamaseries of the Gelugpa sect (yellow hat order) of Mahayana Buddhism. We stroll through its ornate gate, along its monastic dwellings, past red-robed students clutching religious tomes, and its vast compound to the glittering hall with its massive statue of the Buddha. Here we are narrated the origins of the monastery.

Tawang monastery

The name Tawang translates as Chosen Horse (Ta - horse, Wang - chosen). It is believed that when its founder, Mera Lama, set out to find the perfect spot, he meditated for divine guidance. As he did so, his horse went missing, only to be found standing on a nearby hillock. This, the lama felt, was celestial intervention and set about to build on the very spot over 400 years ago.

In complete contrast is the gompa at Urgeling, the birthplace of the sixth Dalai Lama. Quiet and sans a crowd, it's the aura of tranquillity that strikes me as I enter its compound. Shaded by a huge tree whose leaves carpet the ground, it's unassuming in its simplicity with a monk or two attending to it. We sit there awhile and then, as the sun begins to go down, make our way to the Namgyal Chortan, the grand stupa-like War Memorial — Tawang's eloquent offering to the heroes of the 1962 conflict.

It's when we make a deeper foray into the mountains that we are rewarded with the most stunning panoramas. The scenery transforms as we go higher — from emerald carpet to stunted foliage to bareness devoid of vegetation, into a stark realm of ice and snow. Lakes abound here, deep limpid pools in a white canvas. Beyond the Pankang Thang Tso lake hairpin bends lead to Nagu La and even more amazing vistas — lakes ensconced in almost every nook and cranny of the mountains.

And at Y-Junction we stop a bit to gaze at two sights — a signpost directed towards Lhasa and Beijing, and Bum La the pass through which the present Dalai Lama entered India almost half a century ago.

War memorial at Tawang

And just before getting back into town, we turn onto a rugged track that takes us to the Gyangong Ani Gompa — a nunnery. Perched on a hillside it overlooks Tawang. Having come here without prior intimation, we are somewhat hesitant. However our fears come to naught when we are rewarded by a wide smile from the first Ani we encounter. Young, waiflike she is lighting juniper leaves, which smoke through the large incense burner. Task over she leads us to the prayer hall where we sit among the inmates, soaking in the serenity.

This then is the land of the Monpas, who seem to have begun making this region their home from about the 7th century. Ever smiling and friendly, we get a glimpse of their unassuming temperament and intrinsic generosity wherever we go.

It's been an exciting, enlightening, incredible journey...

Fact file

Getting there: By air or rail to Guwahati. By road — Guwahati to Bhalukpong, 100 km; Bhalukpong to Dirang, 138 km; and Dirang to Tawang, 145 km.

Accommodation: Tourist lodges and small hotels are available.

Mandatory: Inner Line Permit for Indian Citizens and Restricted Area Permit for foreigners

Pictures by the author

More Stories on : Domestic Travel | Other States

Article E-Mail :: Comment :: Syndication :: Printer Friendly Page

Stories in this Section
Investing in a dream home

Lights, camera... wildlife protection

Bias against mothers

Chal Arunachal

Who's playing bridge?

Reading between the fairs

From the Tigris...